Stanley's Pictures
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stanleysmommy
Well-Known Member
Okay, and he doesn't have much to play withother than cardboard except a few trains and a can, but he's notplaying with much right now anyway so I think he'll be fine.
And he's getting 3 doses a day of pumpkin and pineapple.
And he's getting 3 doses a day of pumpkin and pineapple.
RaspberrySwirl
Well-Known Member
Glad to hear he'sdoing better! You might try some of the hard plastic cattoys. Sebastian loves his. He has some that have bells inside and heloves to throw them around. He likes cardboard too, but when he getscarried away with chewing it, I take it away.
Keep up the good work!
Raspberry
You might try some of the hard plastic cattoys. Sebastian loves his. He has some that have bells inside and heloves to throw them around. He likes cardboard too, but when he getscarried away with chewing it, I take it away. Keep up the good work!
Raspberry
Pet_Bunny
Well-Known Member
It will be interesting if it is the cardboard or not.
Is there anything else Stanley might chew on? What about herregular foods. Has there been any changes in diet,hay, or pellets. What about the treats?
Please keep us posted, as I would like to know what caused the small poops.
Rainbows! :angel:
Is there anything else Stanley might chew on? What about herregular foods. Has there been any changes in diet,hay, or pellets. What about the treats?
Please keep us posted, as I would like to know what caused the small poops.
Rainbows! :angel:
stanleysmommy
Well-Known Member
RaspberrySwirl wrote:
Okay I'll see if we have any around the house. Stanley loves cardboard for some reason, it's like all he plays with.
Will do.
Glad to hear he's doing better!
Keep up the good work!
Raspberry
Okay I'll see if we have any around the house. Stanley loves cardboard for some reason, it's like all he plays with.
Will do.
stanleysmommy
Well-Known Member
Pet_Bunny wrote:
Might chew on as in to play with or what could have caused it? Nochanges in diet but a couple weeks ago I found I could give himcheerios.
I would really like to know too!
Might chew on as in to play with or what could have caused it? Nochanges in diet but a couple weeks ago I found I could give himcheerios.
I would really like to know too!
RaspberrySwirl
Well-Known Member
This is quitelengthy but I believe it will give you the answer that you are lookingfor.
Raspberry
The diagnosis of "hairball" or "wool block" is commonly made inrabbits. This is a condition that doesn't really exist in the opinionof a growing number of veterinarians who care for rabbits. By that Imean that the primary problem is not a hairball, but rather a problemwith sluggish motility of the gastrointestinal tract (GIT) leading todehydration and impaction of material in the stomach and cecum.
So how does this happen? One needs to look at the GIT physiology of therabbit to understand this condition. As discussed in HRJ Vol. III, No.3, the indigestible fiber in the diet "drives" the digestive tract or,in other words, determines the speed with which ingesta moves along.When there is an insufficient amount of this type of fiber present,motility may be slowed.
Let's review the GIT of the rabbit to look at all the parts (seefigure, right). The stomach holds the food and essentially sterilizesit with a pH of 1 to 2. The food then moves out through the smallintestine where nutrients are absorbed into the body. At the junctionof the small intestine and the large intestine is a large blind saccalled the cecum. This is where the digestible fiber and other portionsof the diet that need to be fermented are deposited. A variety ofmicroorganisms break down this material in the cecum and convert itinto nutrients such as fatty acids, amino acids and vitamins. (Pleasenote that Lactobacillus or Acidophillus are not significantmicroorganisms in a rabbit's cecum). The nutrient-rich material is thenexcreted in the form of cecotropes (some people call these "nightfeces") which are eaten directly from the anus by the rabbit andredigested.
When the speed with which material moves through the GIT is altered itcan affect how quickly the stomach and cecum empty. If the motility isreduced as in diets that are too low in indigestible fiber, then thestomach and cecum will empty slowly. The rabbit eventually stops eatingand drinking probably due to a feeling of fullness in the stomach. Whenthere is no food coming into the system the GIT motility slows toalmost a standstill. Water is still needed by the body and it isextracted from the stomach and cecal contents. A vicious cycle is nowset up. The longer the rabbit doesn't eat, the more dehydrated andimpacted the material in the stomach and cecum becomes and the less therabbit feels like eating. Add to this a diet too high in protein orstarch and the result can eventually be disastrous. Diets too high inprotein and/or starch can result in changes in the cecal pH and thusthe types of microorganisms growing there. These fragile communitiesare altered, allowing the growth of bacteria such as Clostridiumspiriformes which can result in death due to the production of iotatoxins.
So where does the hair come from? Rabbits always have some hair intheir stomach contents. They groom themselves constantly and swallowthe hair. A true "hairball" is comprised of nearly 100% hair as in thecat or the ferret. In the rabbit, the hair is mixed with ingested foodin a mass. As this material dehydrates, the larger particles are leftbehind (which includes the hair). The liquid stomach content graduallybecomes a solid tightly adhered mass. The stomach contents feel doughyand firm on palpation. Radiographs reveal a solid mass of material inthe stomach, often with a distinctive halo of air around it .
To sum it up, the cause of this condition is not the presence of hairin the stomach, but rather a GIT motility disorder that results in firmimpacted stomach and cecal contents. If we do not correct theunderlying problem, then this condition is destined to reoccur.
How do rabbits act when they have impacted stomach or cecal contents?They will stop eating either suddenly or gradually over a period oftime. The stools will get smaller and smaller, then stop altogether.Often, these patients will be bright and alert for a week or longer.They may want to chew the paper on the bottom of the cage, the woodworkor the wall board (all sources of fiber they are craving), but refuseto eat their pellets. Some rabbits have had periodic soft, pudding-likestools prior to complete anorexia. Eventually these patients can becomeseriously ill and die if the condition is not treated.
How do we treat a stomach impaction due to reduced GIT motility once ithappens? It is important to make sure that all the conditions that maybe affecting the rabbit are detected. Your veterinarian may suggestx-rays or other lab work. Since this is an impaction problem, the goalis to rehydrate the rabbit both through the circulatory system andthrough the GIT. Fluids are administered either under the skin or in avein along with high fiber and moisture feedings by syringe or tube.Syringe feedings can be made from ground rabbit pellets or powderedalfalfa mixed with blenderized green leafy vegetables and an oralelectrolyte solution. In addition, medications to stimulate the GIT tostart moving again and analgesics are used. It is rarely necessary touse antibiotics, and in fact these might cause further disturbance toan already compromised GIT. Some people like to use laxatives, andenzymes. I too, have used these products in the past, but have foundthat they really aren't necessary. I have equal success in treatingthis condition with or without enzymes. It is important to rememberthat enzymes of any kind (pineapple, papaya or pancreatic) do notdissolve hair. But the real keys are hydration of the stomach/cecalcontents and getting the GIT moving again.
I find that over 50% of the rabbits presented with this condition willtake care of it themselves when they are given a big pile of leafygreens to eat. Most of the cases of stomach impaction we see have beenon a primary pellet diet and have had little or no access to greens orhay. They are craving fiber and fluids and the leafy greens can be justthe ticket. In addition we give all these patients good quality grasshay. We completely remove pellets from the diet (rabbits usually won'teat pellets when they are ill anyway). Whatever treatment is used, onecan expect stools to be produced within three days. It is rarelynecessary to perform surgery for this condition.
Other causes of GIT disease in the rabbit include partial or completeblockages of the intestine with foreign material (often carpet fibers),post-surgical adhesions, intestinal parasites, toxins (such as lead)and other systemic disease. It is important to have your rabbitthoroughly examined by your veterinarian to determine all the problemsprior to instituting the treatment that I have described.
So, how do you prevent this situation? It really isn't difficult. Thenature of the GIT physiology of the rabbit suggests that it is vitallyimportant to provide a diet that is high in indigestible fiber as wasdiscussed in HRJ Vol. III, No. 3. This is easily provided in the formof grass hay (oat, timothy, bermuda, etc.). Grass hay is lower incalcium, protein and calories than legume hay such as alfalfa. Hayshould be provided 24 hours a day. This way, the pet will never gohungry and will always have a source of nutrition and fiber. The nextimportant part of the diet are fresh leafy greens. Dark leafy greensprovide not only good fiber, but moisture (as well as other nutrients),and the moisture helps to keep things mobile. As quoted in HRJ Vol.III, No. 4, you should use at least three different types a day so asto provide a variety of nutrients and tastes. Examples includedandelion greens, kale, mustard greens, romaine, endive, carrot tops,parsley, etc. In my opinion rabbits can have as much of these foods asthey want as long as they are eating the hay well. However, if you havenever fed greens to your pet, it is best to introduce hay first for acouple of weeks and then add in the greens gradually over a few weeks.In this manner, it is unlikely that your rabbit will experience anydigestive problems. Rarely a rabbit will have a "reaction" to a fooditem and produce a soft stool. Just eliminate this food from the diet.Other vegetables and fruits can also be given such as apples, pears,peaches, berries, pea pods, broccoli, papaya, mango, kiwi, tomatoes,melon, oranges, etc. Wash all fresh foods thoroughly as you would foryourself. Stay away from high starch foods such as legumes (peas andbeans) and grains. Clean water should always be available in a waterbottle or heavy crock bowl. You will notice that your rabbit will drinkfar less water on a diet high in greens than on one that is composedprimarily of pellets.
As was discussed in HRJ Vol. III, No. 4, for the non- breedinghouserabbit the least important part of the diet is the pellets. Theseconcentrated food sources were designed originally for rabbits inproduction (for food or fur) and for laboratory rabbits. They arepacked with calories and vitamins and minerals. Nonbreedinghouserabbits do not need these extra calories and they produce most oftheir own vitamins through their cecotropes when provided a diet highin hay and fresh foods. I rarely recommend pellets as part of the dietfor these pets unless I am trying to get weight back on a rabbit or incases where hay cannot be given because it is unavailable or the humansin the household are allergic to it. We have seen hundreds of rabbits(including my own three; a Flemish Giant, a mini rex and a mixed breed)that are in excellent condition on a hay and fresh food diet alone.These rabbits rarely experience GIT disease.
It is so frustrating for me in practice to see the same mythsperpetuated about "hairballs" and to see this disease used so often asa primary diagnosis. Let's stop using the term "hairballs" and replaceit with "stomach/cecal impaction due to reduced GIT motility".Understand that impaction is not a cause of disease but the result ofunderlying GIT problems. This condition is 99% preventable with anappropriate diet. It is unnecessary to routinely use laxatives, enzymesand other supplements. Let's stop trying to play "catch up" treatingstomach crises all the time and feed our pets the type of diet theywere designed to eat. *
[align=center]Susan Brown, DVM is the co-owner of Midwest Bird and
Exotic-Animal Hospital in Westchester, Ill. [/align]
Raspberry
The diagnosis of "hairball" or "wool block" is commonly made inrabbits. This is a condition that doesn't really exist in the opinionof a growing number of veterinarians who care for rabbits. By that Imean that the primary problem is not a hairball, but rather a problemwith sluggish motility of the gastrointestinal tract (GIT) leading todehydration and impaction of material in the stomach and cecum.
So how does this happen? One needs to look at the GIT physiology of therabbit to understand this condition. As discussed in HRJ Vol. III, No.3, the indigestible fiber in the diet "drives" the digestive tract or,in other words, determines the speed with which ingesta moves along.When there is an insufficient amount of this type of fiber present,motility may be slowed.
When the speed with which material moves through the GIT is altered itcan affect how quickly the stomach and cecum empty. If the motility isreduced as in diets that are too low in indigestible fiber, then thestomach and cecum will empty slowly. The rabbit eventually stops eatingand drinking probably due to a feeling of fullness in the stomach. Whenthere is no food coming into the system the GIT motility slows toalmost a standstill. Water is still needed by the body and it isextracted from the stomach and cecal contents. A vicious cycle is nowset up. The longer the rabbit doesn't eat, the more dehydrated andimpacted the material in the stomach and cecum becomes and the less therabbit feels like eating. Add to this a diet too high in protein orstarch and the result can eventually be disastrous. Diets too high inprotein and/or starch can result in changes in the cecal pH and thusthe types of microorganisms growing there. These fragile communitiesare altered, allowing the growth of bacteria such as Clostridiumspiriformes which can result in death due to the production of iotatoxins.
So where does the hair come from? Rabbits always have some hair intheir stomach contents. They groom themselves constantly and swallowthe hair. A true "hairball" is comprised of nearly 100% hair as in thecat or the ferret. In the rabbit, the hair is mixed with ingested foodin a mass. As this material dehydrates, the larger particles are leftbehind (which includes the hair). The liquid stomach content graduallybecomes a solid tightly adhered mass. The stomach contents feel doughyand firm on palpation. Radiographs reveal a solid mass of material inthe stomach, often with a distinctive halo of air around it .
To sum it up, the cause of this condition is not the presence of hairin the stomach, but rather a GIT motility disorder that results in firmimpacted stomach and cecal contents. If we do not correct theunderlying problem, then this condition is destined to reoccur.
How do rabbits act when they have impacted stomach or cecal contents?They will stop eating either suddenly or gradually over a period oftime. The stools will get smaller and smaller, then stop altogether.Often, these patients will be bright and alert for a week or longer.They may want to chew the paper on the bottom of the cage, the woodworkor the wall board (all sources of fiber they are craving), but refuseto eat their pellets. Some rabbits have had periodic soft, pudding-likestools prior to complete anorexia. Eventually these patients can becomeseriously ill and die if the condition is not treated.
How do we treat a stomach impaction due to reduced GIT motility once ithappens? It is important to make sure that all the conditions that maybe affecting the rabbit are detected. Your veterinarian may suggestx-rays or other lab work. Since this is an impaction problem, the goalis to rehydrate the rabbit both through the circulatory system andthrough the GIT. Fluids are administered either under the skin or in avein along with high fiber and moisture feedings by syringe or tube.Syringe feedings can be made from ground rabbit pellets or powderedalfalfa mixed with blenderized green leafy vegetables and an oralelectrolyte solution. In addition, medications to stimulate the GIT tostart moving again and analgesics are used. It is rarely necessary touse antibiotics, and in fact these might cause further disturbance toan already compromised GIT. Some people like to use laxatives, andenzymes. I too, have used these products in the past, but have foundthat they really aren't necessary. I have equal success in treatingthis condition with or without enzymes. It is important to rememberthat enzymes of any kind (pineapple, papaya or pancreatic) do notdissolve hair. But the real keys are hydration of the stomach/cecalcontents and getting the GIT moving again.
I find that over 50% of the rabbits presented with this condition willtake care of it themselves when they are given a big pile of leafygreens to eat. Most of the cases of stomach impaction we see have beenon a primary pellet diet and have had little or no access to greens orhay. They are craving fiber and fluids and the leafy greens can be justthe ticket. In addition we give all these patients good quality grasshay. We completely remove pellets from the diet (rabbits usually won'teat pellets when they are ill anyway). Whatever treatment is used, onecan expect stools to be produced within three days. It is rarelynecessary to perform surgery for this condition.
Other causes of GIT disease in the rabbit include partial or completeblockages of the intestine with foreign material (often carpet fibers),post-surgical adhesions, intestinal parasites, toxins (such as lead)and other systemic disease. It is important to have your rabbitthoroughly examined by your veterinarian to determine all the problemsprior to instituting the treatment that I have described.
So, how do you prevent this situation? It really isn't difficult. Thenature of the GIT physiology of the rabbit suggests that it is vitallyimportant to provide a diet that is high in indigestible fiber as wasdiscussed in HRJ Vol. III, No. 3. This is easily provided in the formof grass hay (oat, timothy, bermuda, etc.). Grass hay is lower incalcium, protein and calories than legume hay such as alfalfa. Hayshould be provided 24 hours a day. This way, the pet will never gohungry and will always have a source of nutrition and fiber. The nextimportant part of the diet are fresh leafy greens. Dark leafy greensprovide not only good fiber, but moisture (as well as other nutrients),and the moisture helps to keep things mobile. As quoted in HRJ Vol.III, No. 4, you should use at least three different types a day so asto provide a variety of nutrients and tastes. Examples includedandelion greens, kale, mustard greens, romaine, endive, carrot tops,parsley, etc. In my opinion rabbits can have as much of these foods asthey want as long as they are eating the hay well. However, if you havenever fed greens to your pet, it is best to introduce hay first for acouple of weeks and then add in the greens gradually over a few weeks.In this manner, it is unlikely that your rabbit will experience anydigestive problems. Rarely a rabbit will have a "reaction" to a fooditem and produce a soft stool. Just eliminate this food from the diet.Other vegetables and fruits can also be given such as apples, pears,peaches, berries, pea pods, broccoli, papaya, mango, kiwi, tomatoes,melon, oranges, etc. Wash all fresh foods thoroughly as you would foryourself. Stay away from high starch foods such as legumes (peas andbeans) and grains. Clean water should always be available in a waterbottle or heavy crock bowl. You will notice that your rabbit will drinkfar less water on a diet high in greens than on one that is composedprimarily of pellets.
As was discussed in HRJ Vol. III, No. 4, for the non- breedinghouserabbit the least important part of the diet is the pellets. Theseconcentrated food sources were designed originally for rabbits inproduction (for food or fur) and for laboratory rabbits. They arepacked with calories and vitamins and minerals. Nonbreedinghouserabbits do not need these extra calories and they produce most oftheir own vitamins through their cecotropes when provided a diet highin hay and fresh foods. I rarely recommend pellets as part of the dietfor these pets unless I am trying to get weight back on a rabbit or incases where hay cannot be given because it is unavailable or the humansin the household are allergic to it. We have seen hundreds of rabbits(including my own three; a Flemish Giant, a mini rex and a mixed breed)that are in excellent condition on a hay and fresh food diet alone.These rabbits rarely experience GIT disease.
It is so frustrating for me in practice to see the same mythsperpetuated about "hairballs" and to see this disease used so often asa primary diagnosis. Let's stop using the term "hairballs" and replaceit with "stomach/cecal impaction due to reduced GIT motility".Understand that impaction is not a cause of disease but the result ofunderlying GIT problems. This condition is 99% preventable with anappropriate diet. It is unnecessary to routinely use laxatives, enzymesand other supplements. Let's stop trying to play "catch up" treatingstomach crises all the time and feed our pets the type of diet theywere designed to eat. *
[align=center]Susan Brown, DVM is the co-owner of Midwest Bird and
Exotic-Animal Hospital in Westchester, Ill. [/align]
stanleysmommy
Well-Known Member
Wow that's really helpful! Stanley doesn'treally get any greens. Only on the chance that we have some which couldbe why he has this. Now I feel really bad.
He's had some parsley before but for some reason we never get greens atthe store. But I will get some when I can, hopefully today.
Thanks for that Raspberry!
He's had some parsley before but for some reason we never get greens atthe store. But I will get some when I can, hopefully today.
Thanks for that Raspberry!
stanleysmommy
Well-Known Member
Okay I got him greens, he won't eat lettuce. Iwas wondering how to give him broccoli and tomatoes so I can see how hereacts to those. Don't you just give the bushy tops of broccoli? But Idon't know how to do tomatoes.
RaspberrySwirl
Well-Known Member
You want to startgreens in moderation. One of the easiest ways, to my way of thinking,is to buy the bagged already washed and cut variety mix. Several of uson the forum use the "Spring Mix". It has a very wide variety of thekind of greens that are good for a bunny. It allows you to give him awide range of greens but you can start with a small amount the firstday, and slowly add a little more each day until you reach the amountyou want to give him. That way you lessen the risk of him having areaction or diarrhea.
If you want to give him the veggies inbulk, go look at the cheat sheet and see if there is a link to safeveggie list. There are some that you shouldn't feed too often becauseof sugar content.
Make sure your lettuce isn't iceburglettuce. It should be red-leaf or something along those lines. Regularlettuce isn't good for bunnies.
Raspberry
If you want to give him the veggies inbulk, go look at the cheat sheet and see if there is a link to safeveggie list. There are some that you shouldn't feed too often becauseof sugar content.
Make sure your lettuce isn't iceburglettuce. It should be red-leaf or something along those lines. Regularlettuce isn't good for bunnies.
Raspberry
stanleysmommy
Well-Known Member
Okay well I think we got green leaf lettuce is that okay? He actually does like it but you have to go away before he eats it.
Thanks for the info!
Thanks for the info!
bunnee mom
Well-Known Member
Stanleysmommy,
Just a suggestion on something I do with the leafy greens I feed Ellie....
She loves kale, parsley, and carrot tops.....after washing and lettingthis stuff air dry for a bit, I wrap them in a damp (not soaking wet)paper towel and put the veggies back into the plastic bag and looselyclose it, then into the fridge. It really seems to help keepthe veggies fresher longer. I can usuallykeepstuffa couple weeks storing it this way.
*****
Rasberry,
That article was VERY helpful. Thanks for postingit. I'm always afraid I feed Ellie too many greens, but itappears I'm not and probably need to feed her more of them and cut backon the pellets.
Just a suggestion on something I do with the leafy greens I feed Ellie....
She loves kale, parsley, and carrot tops.....after washing and lettingthis stuff air dry for a bit, I wrap them in a damp (not soaking wet)paper towel and put the veggies back into the plastic bag and looselyclose it, then into the fridge. It really seems to help keepthe veggies fresher longer. I can usuallykeepstuffa couple weeks storing it this way.
*****
Rasberry,
That article was VERY helpful. Thanks for postingit. I'm always afraid I feed Ellie too many greens, but itappears I'm not and probably need to feed her more of them and cut backon the pellets.
stanleysmommy
Well-Known Member
Okay I'll try that, thanks bunnee mom!
stanleysmommy
Well-Known Member
I think Stanley may be better now. He's eating his hay and pellets and using the potty box!
My mom was wondering if maybe he's stopped growing so he's eating less, therefore he uses the potty less. :?
He's also been circling around and around me lately. What does thatmean? I'll just let him out and sit on the floor and he runs all aroundme a lot.
My mom was wondering if maybe he's stopped growing so he's eating less, therefore he uses the potty less. :?
He's also been circling around and around me lately. What does thatmean? I'll just let him out and sit on the floor and he runs all aroundme a lot.
RaspberrySwirl
Well-Known Member
That means he likes you....A LOT...LOL!!!
That's how I store my extra greens too bunnee Mom.
Raspberry
That's how I store my extra greens too bunnee Mom.
Raspberry
stanleysmommy
Well-Known Member
Oh YAAAY!! I like him lots too!
stanleysmommy
Well-Known Member
Woweee!! I never knew that; thought he was just being weird.
That's so cool!
That's so cool!
CorkysMom
Well-Known Member
Glad to hear he's feeling better!! YEAH Stanley!!!
stanleysmommy
Well-Known Member
PuterGeekGirl wrote:
Thank you! I wuv my wittle angel! :angel:
Thank you! I wuv my wittle angel! :angel:
