Issues with trust practices (long post)

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Mini_Rex

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Location
Gallatin, Tennessee 37066
Hello! New mini rex owner here.

My new rabbit is nothing like my old rabbit that I use to have and as a result, I am having a very difficult time figuring out how to get my new rabbit to trust me. Let me explain...

I use to have a Flemish Giant rabbit named Donny. He was my first bun. Despite Donny not wanting to eat or drink during the car ride home, (1 hour trip), it barely took any real "patience" or "work" to get him to feel comfortable around me. He eventually would let me pick him up and carry him around the house. I know rabbits don't like being picked up, but this Donny was almost like a dog. He nuzzled and licked my neck when I would pick him up. He enjoyed the attention he received from my children who were 2 and 3 years old at the time. I got him when he was 4 weeks old from a breeder. Eventually he would play with us by grabbing whatever shiny object was on the ground and running away with it. We would take it back, and then he would come back and run away with it and sometimes bring it back. He didn't really care much for my partner but I think it's because Donny viewed me as his "mate" and my partner was another male coming in his territory. I can't think of any other reason why. Unfortunately, I had to rehome Donny because the amount of food he needed for his size, and the larger cage he needed once he grew out of his smaller cage, I just couldn't meet his needs both financially and also living space. Donny got to be 25 lbs which was smaller than his dad. I would have had to house Donny on the first level of my grandma's house and there were dogs. (Wish I would have done more research before I got him.)

I waited 7 years before I got another rabbit. A mini rex. Now, my daughter is 9, my son is 10, and my partner and I now live in our own spacious house (1.3 acre lot, 2100 square foot house no basement). Still, I made sure to get a smaller rabbit after doing a lot of research. But, basic google searches can only go so far (of course).
I got a mini rex from a breeder who breeds regular rexes, mini rexes, lion heads, flemish giants, and also meat rabbits. He's been in the business for decades. I didn't go to the farm to pick up my family's new rabbit as I didn't want to get upset seeing all the other rabbits that might be sold for meat. (I don't know what breeds are sold for meat, and I don't want to know so please don't tell me.) This mini rex, I picked him up two days ago. He is 8 weeks old according to the breeder (April 24th 2023 is his bday). The breeder when I first got in contact with him couldn't tell me how many boys or girls he had available so he had to sex the kits and get back to me. I met the breeder at a local pet store parking lot to pick up the rabbit. From the little experience I had, he seemed healthy. His eyes and nose were clear, seemed to clean himself pretty well. Pee stains on his white hocks, but he didn't have marks on his feet and legs which made me suspect that he didn't sit on a wire rack. Like the last breeder, he picked the rabbit up by the scruff of the neck. That was probably the only thing that I didn't like.
On the way home, again, 1 hour trip, this rabbit ate and drank from his crate (got it from the toy dog section at the pet store). I was pleased to hear this (my daughter sat in the back with him and provided food and water every 5 minutes) and as such, I thought he would be a more confident rabbit like the flemish giant I had.

NOPE!

It's day two since we brought him home and he still prefers to hide in his hiding spots when I try to interact, and generally avoid my hand. I recently read not to pick up your rabbit when they're new and that's a mistake I've already made. I already spent two times on my bed with him. When I first brought him home after about 4 hours of putting him in his hutch, I allowed our dog (DNA test showed 10 different breeds all from various groups) to view him. It was very easy to get our dog Stella to break her "gaze" from him. She prefers to play with us over chase prey (but she still chases wild cotton tails in the yard, and deer) but I also would break her "gaze" at him the second it starts. I've seen farmers train their live stock guardian dogs not to attack the free range chickens with this tactic. However, I'd never trust any dog alone with a bun even with the bun in their home with blankets covering it.

All 4 of us decided to name the new bun Rocket.
Rocket seemed to be coming around and getting use to us, I think partially because I work from home and his house is right next to my computer desk. I just have to turn my chair around to view him, and he can see me while I sit at my desk. I waiting for him to "binky" around before I started to pick him up (he got a cat-ball toy with the bell in it and seemed to really enjoy it). But, last night, during "hang out on bed" time 2 (king size bed), I let my kids enjoy the time with him as well. I feel like this was a mistake. They had a hard time sitting still no matter now many times I told them, and continued to giggle. After about 10 minutes of this I asked them to leave. My daughter had her hand on the bed and when Rocket licked her finger and then nipped it, she yelled jerking her hand back really fast. I tried to explain that's how rabbits socialize, she still became cautious. Because of this, Rocket went from investigating the bed to sitting frozen in a "loaf" position on the bed with his eyes bugged. Once they left, I just layed still and he started exploring the bed including sticking his face in mine and hopping over me to get to the other side still walking around in a cautious manner. I later picked him up and put him in his home. He wasn't happy about that. I pick him up by placing one hand under his belly, and the other under his back legs.

This morning, Rocket wanted NOTHING to do with me. It took a few hours for him to become okay with taking a long piece of hay from my hand. But, on the flip side, he ate pellets from my hand for the first time a little later until he told me with a STRONG nudge that he was done. An hour later I offered him a small slice of an apple about half the size of my thumb nail (I have small hands. I use small-sized boxing gloves) and he cautiously came right up to my hand and took it. The first day when I offered him an apple slice, he refused to take it and kept turning his head.

My dog does share the room with my partner and I. We cover Rocket's home at night with two blankets so that Stella doesn't scare him. She doesn't do anything "bad" while we're in the room awake or not. It's once we leave the room that's when she will get "mischevious" with pretty much anything (like taking a shoe and hiding it on us. She's 2 years old.)

Rocket's first vet appointment is next week Tuesday, the 27th to get a full check up to see if he's healthy, food advise, and also to confirm his gender, to put him on any meds if need be, establish a rabbit savvy vet relationship, and when we should bring Rocket in for his neuter appointment and his next vet appointment. It's about a 15 minute drive.
Right now Rocket gets a mix of his previous food from the breeder and his new food. I'm unsure how much to mix the new food in so the mixture is mostly his old food.
He gets unlimited hay and it's a mix of alfalfa, timothy, and a few other hays. His water is given from a dish and both the food and water dishes are in a metal tray to keep the bowls from flipping over. However, Rocket has made a flew splashes during a few "binky" moments. I will not use a water bottle. I feel like they don't offer much water at once and there for the animal has to work more to stay hydrated.


My question:
Is this rabbit "slow to grow"? He seems more skittish and less handled compared to the flemish giant that I had. I also got the flemish giant at 4 weeks of age where as I got Rocket at 8 weeks of age. I do bring my kids in to look at him now, but today I told them that they have to sit very still from afar (about 3 feet from the corner of his house) and not stare directly at him as that's what predators do (I think?). So I told them to kinda glance at him from the side occasionally looking directly at him. Even then it was hard for them to sit still.

I'm unsure how to get Rocket accustomed to us. Will this up coming vet trip on Tuesday set us backwards? How do I fix this?
I do intend on harness train Rocket down the line so that we can enjoy outside time on the front porch together when the weather is nice. Our roof extends over the top of our front porch. The only animals that come to our front porch are small birds like robins and cardinals.
I also eventually down the line am thinking about getting another enclosed rabbit habitat, a larger one so he can spend time with us while we are gathered in our den. The current hutch is on wheels and during the 1st night, I had to put Rocket in the hallway (master bedroom is on the 1st floor) because his ramp and "2nd story" shelf was making too much noise. I removed the ramp and shelf and provided Rocket with two hideaways, one made of plastic in the shape of a house, and the other made 100% of woven timothy hay that he can hide in and chew. He prefers that hideaway I'm guessing because it's the one that's further from my desk.
He gets 1/4 a cup of pellets and unlimited hay. He has toys, one is a birchwood tree trunk with hay stuffed inside of it (purchased from pet smart), a chew stick, and a cat-bell. The cat-bell is removed at night time and also when no one is in the room to supervise Rocket with it. He likes the cat bell, but I've had rats that broke their cat bell in the past and cut their cheek on it. That was not a fun vet visit. My now deceased rats (RIP) were way more destructive than my previous rabbit.

Please see pic for set-up, he ate all his pellets. The water dish is closet to the cage door. I provided him with a ceramic hay bin. I will be getting a different hutch eventually. I'm not a fan of this one and the items it came with. I'll start litter training him when he's neutered.

Rocket is 4 lbs, male (will confirm Tuesday), 8 weeks old, and a broken blue mini rex.
 

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Your post is a lot to take in but very thorough! There is much to review. You are in the majority, I think, when discovering that your second rabbit is nothing like your first. So just for starters, try not to compare this rabbit with your prior rabbit. If I've learned anything over the decades concerning rabbits it is that each individual rabbit truly does have a unique personality and temperament.

I'm seeing some things here that are spot on correct in what you're doing. There are a few other things that could benefit from some adjustments. I'll go over those in no particular order.

1. (sounds like you may have discovered this) but ideally, the first 2-3 days in a new home, a rabbit adjusts best and quickest if it is left alone in its cage. This gives them time to adjust to the new sights, sounds, and odors of their new home while in an enclosed (ie. safe) space. You've taken steps to limit your kids interactions, which is fine. But it may be easiest to let the bun stay in the cage for a few days and have everyone go about their daily routine as usual. Don't be extra quiet around the cage. Just do normal things. On a side note, when your daughter yelped when the rabbit nipped, that was actually a good thing! A sudden yelp like that can teach the rabbit that a nip is not acceptable.

2. Do not reach into the cage to take bunny out. Do not carry the rabbit anywhere in your hands. I know it's easy to do so now while he's little, but this is not advised. Yes, I realize you had success with carrying your prior rabbit, but that is a rare exception, not the norm. I've heard countless stories of bunny injuries from people carrying their rabbit -- either by squeezing too hard to prevent an escape when bunny squirmed, or from an actual drop. Regarding this topic, I'm going to direct you to a page on my website that explains this in more detail. (also save me from retyping it all here).

The way to let bunny out is to make use of an ex-pen or similar. Just open the cage door so that the rabbit will come out when and if he's ready. This is the way to build trust. Reaching in and forcing him out will eventually backfire as he grows.

As a side note for this topic, your rabbit being 8 weeks is not a detriment. The one you got at 4 weeks is fortunate to have grown well and healthy. It is not recommended to re-home a rabbit younger than 8 weeks of age. Indeed it is illegal in many states to do so. So, no, there is no disadvantage to his age. I would note, however, that early handling is not going to influence his adult behavior. This is a myth that simply isn't true with rabbits. The website link explains this as well.

3. Harnessing is generally not advised. There are better and safer ways to take him outside. I don's see a location listed on your profile (be sure to update) but before taking a rabbit outdoors, see if RHVD2 is prevalent in your area. (more about this on webpage).

4. Litter training can start anytime. Actually "training" is a misnomer because they aren't actually trained. All we have to do is provide the proper setup and they train themselves. Young rabbits can litter train. Just know that the onset of hormones can cause them to temporarily forget that "training." So to the goal of litter training, the current setup is counterproductive. Having loose litter all over the cage floor and inside the litter box makes it impossible for him to know where to potty. This is also covered in detail at my website.

At his young age, it isn't necessary to limit pellets. What type/brand are the new pellets you are using? I discuss pellet recommendations as well as how to transition on my website.

5. There is a page on my site that explains how to introduce a dog and a rabbit.

Here I'll link various pages for what's been discussed. If you are using a laptop, the website is more user-friendly, and easier to find specific topics, imo. I'm not crazy about the mobile version of the site.

https://rabbitsindoors.weebly.com/bonding-with-your-bunny.html
https://rabbitsindoors.weebly.com/bringing-outside.html
https://rabbitsindoors.weebly.com/litter-training.html
https://rabbitsindoors.weebly.com/housing-options.html
https://rabbitsindoors.weebly.com/feeding.html
https://rabbitsindoors.weebly.com/introducing-dog-to-rabbit.html
https://rabbitsindoors.weebly.com/myths.html
 
Your post is a lot to take in but very thorough! There is much to review. You are in the majority, I think, when discovering that your second rabbit is nothing like your first. So just for starters, try not to compare this rabbit with your prior rabbit. If I've learned anything over the decades concerning rabbits it is that each individual rabbit truly does have a unique personality and temperament.

I'm seeing some things here that are spot on correct in what you're doing. There are a few other things that could benefit from some adjustments. I'll go over those in no particular order.

1. (sounds like you may have discovered this) but ideally, the first 2-3 days in a new home, a rabbit adjusts best and quickest if it is left alone in its cage. This gives them time to adjust to the new sights, sounds, and odors of their new home while in an enclosed (ie. safe) space. You've taken steps to limit your kids interactions, which is fine. But it may be easiest to let the bun stay in the cage for a few days and have everyone go about their daily routine as usual. Don't be extra quiet around the cage. Just do normal things. On a side note, when your daughter yelped when the rabbit nipped, that was actually a good thing! A sudden yelp like that can teach the rabbit that a nip is not acceptable.

2. Do not reach into the cage to take bunny out. Do not carry the rabbit anywhere in your hands. I know it's easy to do so now while he's little, but this is not advised. Yes, I realize you had success with carrying your prior rabbit, but that is a rare exception, not the norm. I've heard countless stories of bunny injuries from people carrying their rabbit -- either by squeezing too hard to prevent an escape when bunny squirmed, or from an actual drop. Regarding this topic, I'm going to direct you to a page on my website that explains this in more detail. (also save me from retyping it all here).

The way to let bunny out is to make use of an ex-pen or similar. Just open the cage door so that the rabbit will come out when and if he's ready. This is the way to build trust. Reaching in and forcing him out will eventually backfire as he grows.

As a side note for this topic, your rabbit being 8 weeks is not a detriment. The one you got at 4 weeks is fortunate to have grown well and healthy. It is not recommended to re-home a rabbit younger than 8 weeks of age. Indeed it is illegal in many states to do so. So, no, there is no disadvantage to his age. I would note, however, that early handling is not going to influence his adult behavior. This is a myth that simply isn't true with rabbits. The website link explains this as well.

3. Harnessing is generally not advised. There are better and safer ways to take him outside. I don's see a location listed on your profile (be sure to update) but before taking a rabbit outdoors, see if RHVD2 is prevalent in your area. (more about this on webpage).

4. Litter training can start anytime. Actually "training" is a misnomer because they aren't actually trained. All we have to do is provide the proper setup and they train themselves. Young rabbits can litter train. Just know that the onset of hormones can cause them to temporarily forget that "training." So to the goal of litter training, the current setup is counterproductive. Having loose litter all over the cage floor and inside the litter box makes it impossible for him to know where to potty. This is also covered in detail at my website.

At his young age, it isn't necessary to limit pellets. What type/brand are the new pellets you are using? I discuss pellet recommendations as well as how to transition on my website.

5. There is a page on my site that explains how to introduce a dog and a rabbit.

Here I'll link various pages for what's been discussed. If you are using a laptop, the website is more user-friendly, and easier to find specific topics, imo. I'm not crazy about the mobile version of the site.

https://rabbitsindoors.weebly.com/bonding-with-your-bunny.html
https://rabbitsindoors.weebly.com/bringing-outside.html
https://rabbitsindoors.weebly.com/litter-training.html
https://rabbitsindoors.weebly.com/housing-options.html
https://rabbitsindoors.weebly.com/feeding.html
https://rabbitsindoors.weebly.com/introducing-dog-to-rabbit.html
https://rabbitsindoors.weebly.com/myths.html
Thank you so much for replying and taking the time to read! I know, it's a long post. But, a lot happened and I wanted to be as thorough as possible to avoid any assumptions or misinterpretations.

ANOTHER MISTAKE:
Before you replied, I did work on introducing my dog to Rocket. They touched noses through the cage bars but then Rocket froze in complete fear. He's now ignoring me so I'm just going to keep them separated until he's come around with my partner and myself (we sleep in the same room as Rocket after all), and then the kids.

FOOD:
For the food, Rocket's breeder was giving him a quarter cup of Tucker Mills NON GMO 16% protein rabbit food pellets. I've been mixing that with the Oxbow food I bought (please see pic). So far, I've been doing 90% Tucker Mills and 10% Oxbow 1/4 cup in the morning and then unlimited hay the rest of the day. I just realized that while there is alfalfa in the Oxbow pellets, there isn't any in the hay I bought. Is this okay? Pic of hay as well.

OUTSIDE TIME
I'll look up what RHVD2 is. My area: Gallatin Tennessee (kinda new-ish to the area. Moved from Chicago IL a year ago.) I noticed the weather out here is so much more nicer so I would love to have outside time with my bun and maybe build something like a cattery, but for a rabbit for human & rabbit outside interaction down the line. My partner and I are big on DIY projects (the generic hutch Rocket is in is misleading. I know. lol) Rocket will never be left outside unattended. Too many predators. That and I don't want Rocket being "introduced" to any wild rabbits and then catching something.

VET TRANSPORT
Okay, so if I cannot pick up Rocket, then how do I transport him to a vet? I have a cat carrier. Not sure if I mentioned that.

DAILY LIVING TIP
Thank you for that! I like to practice martial arts in my room in front of my mirror which is right in the view of Rocket so I was wondering how am I gonna practice with Rocket's cage there. Didn't plan ahead on that one.
 

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Okay, so if I cannot pick up Rocket, then how do I transport him to a vet? I have a cat carrier. Not sure if I mentioned that.
I’m gonna leave the other questions to people more knowledgeable than I am. You can put his pellets, vegetables, or a piece of fruit in the carrier to give him a reason to go in. To help him be more comfortable with it and go in faster you could put the carrier in a couple days early.
 
Thank you so much for replying and taking the time to read! I know, it's a long post. But, a lot happened and I wanted to be as thorough as possible to avoid any assumptions or misinterpretations.

ANOTHER MISTAKE:
Before you replied, I did work on introducing my dog to Rocket. They touched noses through the cage bars but then Rocket froze in complete fear. He's now ignoring me so I'm just going to keep them separated until he's come around with my partner and myself (we sleep in the same room as Rocket after all), and then the kids.

FOOD:
For the food, Rocket's breeder was giving him a quarter cup of Tucker Mills NON GMO 16% protein rabbit food pellets. I've been mixing that with the Oxbow food I bought (please see pic). So far, I've been doing 90% Tucker Mills and 10% Oxbow 1/4 cup in the morning and then unlimited hay the rest of the day. I just realized that while there is alfalfa in the Oxbow pellets, there isn't any in the hay I bought. Is this okay? Pic of hay as well.

OUTSIDE TIME
I'll look up what RHVD2 is. My area: Gallatin Tennessee (kinda new-ish to the area. Moved from Chicago IL a year ago.) I noticed the weather out here is so much more nicer so I would love to have outside time with my bun and maybe build something like a cattery, but for a rabbit for human & rabbit outside interaction down the line. My partner and I are big on DIY projects (the generic hutch Rocket is in is misleading. I know. lol) Rocket will never be left outside unattended. Too many predators. That and I don't want Rocket being "introduced" to any wild rabbits and then catching something.

VET TRANSPORT
Okay, so if I cannot pick up Rocket, then how do I transport him to a vet? I have a cat carrier. Not sure if I mentioned that.

DAILY LIVING TIP
Thank you for that! I like to practice martial arts in my room in front of my mirror which is right in the view of Rocket so I was wondering how am I gonna practice with Rocket's cage there. Didn't plan ahead on that one.
I know I bombarded you with a lot of links. Have you had the chance to look through any?

The portions of pellets for transitioning are on the pellet feed page. You chose a good brand. As I mentioned, at his young age, the pellet amount should not be limited to just 1/4 cup. They need the extra nutrition in those pellets as they grow. Once he reaches 6 months of age, then the pellets can be reduced (and changed to adult pellets). Since the pellets have alfalfa, it is fine (ideal actually) to not have alfalfa in the hay mix.

There is info on RHVD2 on the forum here. It is highly contagious. If an infected rabbit simply hops on your yard and then your rabbit walks there, he'll likely get it. There is a map at the link that shows areas of infection. Only some vets in the US provide vaccinations for it.

Cat carrier is ideal for transport. Here is info on setting up the carrier safely.

If you regularly practice martial arts in that location, then by all means continue to do so. Bunny will get used to it.
 
oh... one other thing. I do not suggest offering any fruit or even greens at this age. That can be very dangerous by causing digestive issues. The exception would be if you know for sure that the breeder was feeding greens to the momma and the kits all along. Otherwise, the baby's gut does not yet have the enzymes to properly digest greens. Even more difficult would be the baby's ability to digest sugary foods like fruit (or carrot). Only pellets and hay for now, at least until 12 weeks of age (barring the exception I mentioned).
 
Hello! New mini rex owner here.

My new rabbit is nothing like my old rabbit that I use to have and as a result, I am having a very difficult time figuring out how to get my new rabbit to trust me. Let me explain...

I use to have a Flemish Giant rabbit named Donny. He was my first bun. Despite Donny not wanting to eat or drink during the car ride home, (1 hour trip), it barely took any real "patience" or "work" to get him to feel comfortable around me. He eventually would let me pick him up and carry him around the house. I know rabbits don't like being picked up, but this Donny was almost like a dog. He nuzzled and licked my neck when I would pick him up. He enjoyed the attention he received from my children who were 2 and 3 years old at the time. I got him when he was 4 weeks old from a breeder. Eventually he would play with us by grabbing whatever shiny object was on the ground and running away with it. We would take it back, and then he would come back and run away with it and sometimes bring it back. He didn't really care much for my partner but I think it's because Donny viewed me as his "mate" and my partner was another male coming in his territory. I can't think of any other reason why. Unfortunately, I had to rehome Donny because the amount of food he needed for his size, and the larger cage he needed once he grew out of his smaller cage, I just couldn't meet his needs both financially and also living space. Donny got to be 25 lbs which was smaller than his dad. I would have had to house Donny on the first level of my grandma's house and there were dogs. (Wish I would have done more research before I got him.)

I waited 7 years before I got another rabbit. A mini rex. Now, my daughter is 9, my son is 10, and my partner and I now live in our own spacious house (1.3 acre lot, 2100 square foot house no basement). Still, I made sure to get a smaller rabbit after doing a lot of research. But, basic google searches can only go so far (of course).
I got a mini rex from a breeder who breeds regular rexes, mini rexes, lion heads, flemish giants, and also meat rabbits. He's been in the business for decades. I didn't go to the farm to pick up my family's new rabbit as I didn't want to get upset seeing all the other rabbits that might be sold for meat. (I don't know what breeds are sold for meat, and I don't want to know so please don't tell me.) This mini rex, I picked him up two days ago. He is 8 weeks old according to the breeder (April 24th 2023 is his bday). The breeder when I first got in contact with him couldn't tell me how many boys or girls he had available so he had to sex the kits and get back to me. I met the breeder at a local pet store parking lot to pick up the rabbit. From the little experience I had, he seemed healthy. His eyes and nose were clear, seemed to clean himself pretty well. Pee stains on his white hocks, but he didn't have marks on his feet and legs which made me suspect that he didn't sit on a wire rack. Like the last breeder, he picked the rabbit up by the scruff of the neck. That was probably the only thing that I didn't like.
On the way home, again, 1 hour trip, this rabbit ate and drank from his crate (got it from the toy dog section at the pet store). I was pleased to hear this (my daughter sat in the back with him and provided food and water every 5 minutes) and as such, I thought he would be a more confident rabbit like the flemish giant I had.

NOPE!

It's day two since we brought him home and he still prefers to hide in his hiding spots when I try to interact, and generally avoid my hand. I recently read not to pick up your rabbit when they're new and that's a mistake I've already made. I already spent two times on my bed with him. When I first brought him home after about 4 hours of putting him in his hutch, I allowed our dog (DNA test showed 10 different breeds all from various groups) to view him. It was very easy to get our dog Stella to break her "gaze" from him. She prefers to play with us over chase prey (but she still chases wild cotton tails in the yard, and deer) but I also would break her "gaze" at him the second it starts. I've seen farmers train their live stock guardian dogs not to attack the free range chickens with this tactic. However, I'd never trust any dog alone with a bun even with the bun in their home with blankets covering it.

All 4 of us decided to name the new bun Rocket.
Rocket seemed to be coming around and getting use to us, I think partially because I work from home and his house is right next to my computer desk. I just have to turn my chair around to view him, and he can see me while I sit at my desk. I waiting for him to "binky" around before I started to pick him up (he got a cat-ball toy with the bell in it and seemed to really enjoy it). But, last night, during "hang out on bed" time 2 (king size bed), I let my kids enjoy the time with him as well. I feel like this was a mistake. They had a hard time sitting still no matter now many times I told them, and continued to giggle. After about 10 minutes of this I asked them to leave. My daughter had her hand on the bed and when Rocket licked her finger and then nipped it, she yelled jerking her hand back really fast. I tried to explain that's how rabbits socialize, she still became cautious. Because of this, Rocket went from investigating the bed to sitting frozen in a "loaf" position on the bed with his eyes bugged. Once they left, I just layed still and he started exploring the bed including sticking his face in mine and hopping over me to get to the other side still walking around in a cautious manner. I later picked him up and put him in his home. He wasn't happy about that. I pick him up by placing one hand under his belly, and the other under his back legs.

This morning, Rocket wanted NOTHING to do with me. It took a few hours for him to become okay with taking a long piece of hay from my hand. But, on the flip side, he ate pellets from my hand for the first time a little later until he told me with a STRONG nudge that he was done. An hour later I offered him a small slice of an apple about half the size of my thumb nail (I have small hands. I use small-sized boxing gloves) and he cautiously came right up to my hand and took it. The first day when I offered him an apple slice, he refused to take it and kept turning his head.

My dog does share the room with my partner and I. We cover Rocket's home at night with two blankets so that Stella doesn't scare him. She doesn't do anything "bad" while we're in the room awake or not. It's once we leave the room that's when she will get "mischevious" with pretty much anything (like taking a shoe and hiding it on us. She's 2 years old.)

Rocket's first vet appointment is next week Tuesday, the 27th to get a full check up to see if he's healthy, food advise, and also to confirm his gender, to put him on any meds if need be, establish a rabbit savvy vet relationship, and when we should bring Rocket in for his neuter appointment and his next vet appointment. It's about a 15 minute drive.
Right now Rocket gets a mix of his previous food from the breeder and his new food. I'm unsure how much to mix the new food in so the mixture is mostly his old food.
He gets unlimited hay and it's a mix of alfalfa, timothy, and a few other hays. His water is given from a dish and both the food and water dishes are in a metal tray to keep the bowls from flipping over. However, Rocket has made a flew splashes during a few "binky" moments. I will not use a water bottle. I feel like they don't offer much water at once and there for the animal has to work more to stay hydrated.


My question:
Is this rabbit "slow to grow"? He seems more skittish and less handled compared to the flemish giant that I had. I also got the flemish giant at 4 weeks of age where as I got Rocket at 8 weeks of age. I do bring my kids in to look at him now, but today I told them that they have to sit very still from afar (about 3 feet from the corner of his house) and not stare directly at him as that's what predators do (I think?). So I told them to kinda glance at him from the side occasionally looking directly at him. Even then it was hard for them to sit still.

I'm unsure how to get Rocket accustomed to us. Will this up coming vet trip on Tuesday set us backwards? How do I fix this?
I do intend on harness train Rocket down the line so that we can enjoy outside time on the front porch together when the weather is nice. Our roof extends over the top of our front porch. The only animals that come to our front porch are small birds like robins and cardinals.
I also eventually down the line am thinking about getting another enclosed rabbit habitat, a larger one so he can spend time with us while we are gathered in our den. The current hutch is on wheels and during the 1st night, I had to put Rocket in the hallway (master bedroom is on the 1st floor) because his ramp and "2nd story" shelf was making too much noise. I removed the ramp and shelf and provided Rocket with two hideaways, one made of plastic in the shape of a house, and the other made 100% of woven timothy hay that he can hide in and chew. He prefers that hideaway I'm guessing because it's the one that's further from my desk.
He gets 1/4 a cup of pellets and unlimited hay. He has toys, one is a birchwood tree trunk with hay stuffed inside of it (purchased from pet smart), a chew stick, and a cat-bell. The cat-bell is removed at night time and also when no one is in the room to supervise Rocket with it. He likes the cat bell, but I've had rats that broke their cat bell in the past and cut their cheek on it. That was not a fun vet visit. My now deceased rats (RIP) were way more destructive than my previous rabbit.

Please see pic for set-up, he ate all his pellets. The water dish is closet to the cage door. I provided him with a ceramic hay bin. I will be getting a different hutch eventually. I'm not a fan of this one and the items it came with. I'll start litter training him when he's neutered.

Rocket is 4 lbs, male (will confirm Tuesday), 8 weeks old, and a broken blue mini rex.
Congratulations on your new forever bun! I too am a new bunbun owner (Willow is now 9 weeks old) and I got her at 4 weeks. I will tell you what her veterinarian told me on her first vet visit:
a bunnys diet needs to consist of 80% hay. Timothy hay to be exact (I had read to feed her alfalfa, so that’s what she had been eating prior to vet visit). She said alfalfa is given to rabbits that are intended for meat and/or fur. A bunnys hay consumption is very important as it keeps her bowels going as they should. Alfalfa hay helps Rabbits grow faster and put on weight quicker. A pet rabbit should (always) be given Timothy hay. Nutritionally, it’s all she needs. She also had me limit her pellet consumption to 1 cup per day. As far as fruits and veggies, I can give her those but to introduce them slowly and watch her poops. I chose to introduce a new fruit/veggie 1x a week just to be on the safe side.
As far as the bonding process: I let Willow take the lead. I have sat on the floor for countless hours waiting for her to come up to me. I did find some cute tiny organic star treats on Etsy that she loves. When she came up to me, I’d offer her one of those (in moderation: too many treats are not good for a bunbun).
patience! Patience! Patience! Is what you need. I’ve learned to have A LOT of that with her and slowly, she’s become my sidekick. We’re at the point now (after 5 weeks) she lays under my feet, when I’m on the couch and if I get up, shes trailing close behind circling my feet if I stop. I still won’t pick her up and haven’t except to put her in her carrier or to put her in her pen. Perhaps get some steps that lead up to your bed if you want Rocket up there? They’re such fragile little beings if Rocket would kick and you accidentally drop him, it could break his spine or seriously injure him. Him kicking too hard can also cause him injury. Just be very, very careful.
Willows spay appointment is next month. (I tear up every time I think about it) but it has to be done and I know this. She is doing rather well with peeing in her litter box (actually, a hay box) but she’s in a play yard (made for dogs) with NO crate bottom. Bunnys don’t have pads on the bottom of their feet as dogs do, so a crate bottom isn’t good. I only put her in her pen at night and/or if we go somewhere (I’m a stay at home mom to a disabled kiddo). She does still leave her droppings everywhere but at least we have the peepee under control. If she did have an accident (during training) I used a mix of vinegar/water to clean it up. I wiped up the urine with a paper towel and placed the urine soaked paper towel in her litter box. A few times of that, she totally understood what I was telling her and she’s not urinated anywhere since. I never realized what a great cleaning agent vinegar was until we got Willow. It even cleaned bunny urine out of my white couch! I was so impressed lol Vinegar also removes the scent so she won’t peepee there again.
Those are just a few things I know that’s worked for Willow and what her veterinarian told me at her vet visit.… but I know, there’s still A LOT I don’t know and I too am learning something new everyday. I done so much research before I got her (like 3 years: different breeds, diets etc) but I’ll tell ya! Research helped, yes but there’s nothing like experiencing it first hand. One thing I did learn that’s the absolute truth: DON’T believe what they say on YouTube! Check multiple resources for a specific question you may have.
Bunny hugs to Rocket! 💜
 
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One thing about behaving around rabbits. My approach is that I do what I do, behave normally, and do not tip-toe around in their presence. Would advice kids to do whatever they like to do, or doing homework, behave naturally next to the rabbits while pretty much ignoring them. They might be startled now and then but quickly realise it's not a danger when I just ignore them. Now i have to watch out or lock them away when chopping wood or working with the chainsaw.

One thing I try to do is to announce myself before I come around a corner, greeting them loudly and slowing down so they know I'm comming, that's something that will always startle them otherwise.
 
a bunnys diet needs to consist of 80% hay. Timothy hay to be exact (I had read to feed her alfalfa, so that’s what she had been eating prior to vet visit). She said alfalfa is given to rabbits that are intended for meat and/or fur. A bunnys hay consumption is very important as it keeps her bowels going as they should. Alfalfa hay helps Rabbits grow faster and put on weight quicker. A pet rabbit should (always) be given Timothy hay. Nutritionally, it’s all she needs.
Well, no, not really. Hay is a convinient feed for owners, nothing wrong with that, but it's not what they "need". Hay is an artificial product, invented to get lifestock through winter, but it isn't the only option to feed rabbits. Single species hays like Timothy are pretty much unheard of over here, to farm those a lot of chemicals are needed (apart from pesticides Glophosat to get rid of everything else, and to "ripen" the crop). here, hay is whatever grows on meadows. Quality depends on how diverse the plants are, the more the better.


She also had me limit her pellet consumption to 1 cup per day. As far as fruits and veggies, I can give her those but to introduce them slowly and watch her poops. I chose to introduce a new fruit/veggie 1x a week just to be on the safe side

Actually, it's better to feed consistant amounts of stuff daily. They need to grow the right bacteria to digest new stuff, if that stuff comes around just occassionally that doesn't work great.
As far as the bonding process: I let Willow take the lead. I have sat on the floor for countless hours waiting for her to come up to me. I did find some cute tiny organic star treats on Etsy that she loves. When she came up to me, I’d offer her one of those (in moderation: too many treats are not good for a bunbun).
patience! Patience! Patience! Is what you need. I’ve learned to have A LOT of that with her and slowly, she’s become my sidekick. We’re at the point now (after 5 weeks) she lays under my feet, when I’m on the couch and if I get up, shes trailing close behind circling my feet if I stop. I still won’t pick her up and haven’t except to put her in her carrier or to put her in her pen. Perhaps get some steps that lead up to your bed if you want Rocket up there? They’re such fragile little beings if Rocket would kick and you accidentally drop him, it could break his spine or seriously injure him. Him kicking too hard can also cause him injury. Just be very, very careful.
Willows spay appointment is next month. (I tear up every time I think about it) but it has to be done and I know this.
Oh my, I definitly encourage to spay pet rabbits. Right now I'm going to the vet every day, rampaging hormons most likely caused by an ovary cyst in my 5yo Chantal caused her to stress out so much that E. Cuniculi broke out :( , I had another of my breeders spayed at 7 years after she got accidentially pragnent and a kit got stuck.

e is doing rather well with peeing in her litter box (actually, a hay box) but she’s in a play yard (made for dogs) with NO crate bottom. Bunnys don’t have pads on the bottom of their feet as dogs do, so a crate bottom isn’t good. [/quote)

Actually that's why wire floors or grates on litter boxes aren't a big problem for most rabbits (heavy and Rex breeds excempted).
I only put her in her pen at night and/or if we go somewhere (I’m a stay at home mom to a disabled kiddo). She does still leave her droppings everywhere but at least we have the peepee under control. If she did have an accident (during training) I used a mix of vinegar/water to clean it up. I wiped up the urine with a paper towel and placed the urine soaked paper towel in her litter box. A few times of that, she totally understood what I was telling her and she’s not urinated anywhere since. I never realized what a great cleaning agent vinegar was until we got Willow. It even cleaned bunny urine out of my white couch! I was so impressed lol Vinegar also removes the scent so she won’t peepee there again.
Those are just a few things I know that’s worked for Willow and what her veterinarian told me at her vet visit.… but I know, there’s still A LOT I don’t know and I too am learning something new everyday. I done so much research before I got her (like 3 years: different breeds, diets etc) but I’ll tell ya! Research helped, yes but there’s nothing like experiencing it first hand. One thing I did learn that’s the absolute truth: DON’T believe what they say on YouTube! Check multiple resources for a specific question you may have.
Bunny hugs to Rocket! 💜

About peeing in places they should not, i place wood blocks there so it becomes inconvienent to sqat there. so they go the extra step to the litter box. if it's like in another room, or across teh room, I block that space completly for some time.
Yes, vingar is great, i wish I had known that when I moved out of my last apartment 8 years ago .
 
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Congratulations on your new forever bun! I too am a new bunbun owner (Willow is now 9 weeks old) and I got her at 4 weeks. I will tell you what her veterinarian told me on her first vet visit:
a bunnys diet needs to consist of 80% hay. Timothy hay to be exact (I had read to feed her alfalfa, so that’s what she had been eating prior to vet visit). She said alfalfa is given to rabbits that are intended for meat and/or fur. A bunnys hay consumption is very important as it keeps her bowels going as they should. Alfalfa hay helps Rabbits grow faster and put on weight quicker. A pet rabbit should (always) be given Timothy hay. Nutritionally, it’s all she needs. She also had me limit her pellet consumption to 1 cup per day. As far as fruits and veggies, I can give her those but to introduce them slowly and watch her poops. I chose to introduce a new fruit/veggie 1x a week just to be on the safe side.
As far as the bonding process: I let Willow take the lead. I have sat on the floor for countless hours waiting for her to come up to me. I did find some cute tiny organic star treats on Etsy that she loves. When she came up to me, I’d offer her one of those (in moderation: too many treats are not good for a bunbun).
patience! Patience! Patience! Is what you need. I’ve learned to have A LOT of that with her and slowly, she’s become my sidekick. We’re at the point now (after 5 weeks) she lays under my feet, when I’m on the couch and if I get up, shes trailing close behind circling my feet if I stop. I still won’t pick her up and haven’t except to put her in her carrier or to put her in her pen. Perhaps get some steps that lead up to your bed if you want Rocket up there? They’re such fragile little beings if Rocket would kick and you accidentally drop him, it could break his spine or seriously injure him. Him kicking too hard can also cause him injury. Just be very, very careful.
Willows spay appointment is next month. (I tear up every time I think about it) but it has to be done and I know this. She is doing rather well with peeing in her litter box (actually, a hay box) but she’s in a play yard (made for dogs) with NO crate bottom. Bunnys don’t have pads on the bottom of their feet as dogs do, so a crate bottom isn’t good. I only put her in her pen at night and/or if we go somewhere (I’m a stay at home mom to a disabled kiddo). She does still leave her droppings everywhere but at least we have the peepee under control. If she did have an accident (during training) I used a mix of vinegar/water to clean it up. I wiped up the urine with a paper towel and placed the urine soaked paper towel in her litter box. A few times of that, she totally understood what I was telling her and she’s not urinated anywhere since. I never realized what a great cleaning agent vinegar was until we got Willow. It even cleaned bunny urine out of my white couch! I was so impressed lol Vinegar also removes the scent so she won’t peepee there again.
Those are just a few things I know that’s worked for Willow and what her veterinarian told me at her vet visit.… but I know, there’s still A LOT I don’t know and I too am learning something new everyday. I done so much research before I got her (like 3 years: different breeds, diets etc) but I’ll tell ya! Research helped, yes but there’s nothing like experiencing it first hand. One thing I did learn that’s the absolute truth: DON’T believe what they say on YouTube! Check multiple resources for a specific question you may have.
Bunny hugs to Rocket! 💜
Thank you for the update! I'm pretty happy that I don't need to switch out the Timothy hay mix bag I bought. I'm not a true 1st-time bun owner. This is my 2nd one. My first was a flemish giant. Their needs vs mini rex are def not the same.
Also, a wire crate bottom isn't good (for any animal really) but a regular solid crate bottom is okay. I live in a more rural area on a decent-sized plot of land so an outdoor all-the-time pen isn't ideal due to predators. Predators can bust a pen open in minutes and if they can't, they'll taunt the rabbit to death. I'd never leave a cat, small dog, or other small pet out even in a pen/hutch without strict supervision.
Plus, rabbits dig holes. I'd be more worried about a wild rabbit digging into the rabbit hutch from one of their many tunnels underneath the ground. Wild rabbits carry many bun-deadly and dog and cat-deadly diseases.
I researched outdoor hutches for my flemish giant that I had in the past. Because of these dangers, I chose to house him inside which is when I decided to rehome him. The thing I overlooked was how much money he would cost and the fact that he'd get to 25 lbs.
Additionally, I have a dog who has shown clear signs last night that she will attack my bun if given the chance. Free roam is not an option.
Plus, I was recently informed of RHDV2 by one of the members above. My area also tested positive for RHDV2. It's transmitted through wild rabbits. You only need to touch something a wild rabbit touched to pass it on to your bun. If your bun gets it, it is a death sentence.
As such, a grass-bottom outdoor pen is a hard no for me.

Yeah, I have regular kids, I learned quickly that vinegar solutions to clean up body fluid stains are a go-to. A toothbrush will help really well.

As far as how much to feed Rocket pellets, that depends on the size and weight, and age of the rabbit. That I'll be sure to ask the vet along with looking into vaccinations against certain diseases (like the one mentioned above) but there is a lot of controversy about how much pellets rabbits actually need vs hay. I just hope that this exotic vet I'm seeing next week is well-versed in rabbits and doesn't give me a generalization. I'd be pissed if my bun got sick due to a generalization. Happened with a rabbit I fostered. That rabbit died. It was a lion head. Lasted a week.
 
I know I bombarded you with a lot of links. Have you had the chance to look through any?

The portions of pellets for transitioning are on the pellet feed page. You chose a good brand. As I mentioned, at his young age, the pellet amount should not be limited to just 1/4 cup. They need the extra nutrition in those pellets as they grow. Once he reaches 6 months of age, then the pellets can be reduced (and changed to adult pellets). Since the pellets have alfalfa, it is fine (ideal actually) to not have alfalfa in the hay mix.

There is info on RHVD2 on the forum here. It is highly contagious. If an infected rabbit simply hops on your yard and then your rabbit walks there, he'll likely get it. There is a map at the link that shows areas of infection. Only some vets in the US provide vaccinations for it.

Cat carrier is ideal for transport. Here is info on setting up the carrier safely.

If you regularly practice martial arts in that location, then by all means continue to do so. Bunny will get used

Congratulations on your new forever bun! I too am a new bunbun owner (Willow is now 9 weeks old) and I got her at 4 weeks. I will tell you what her veterinarian told me on her first vet visit:
a bunnys diet needs to consist of 80% hay. Timothy hay to be exact (I had read to feed her alfalfa, so that’s what she had been eating prior to vet visit). She said alfalfa is given to rabbits that are intended for meat and/or fur. A bunnys hay consumption is very important as it keeps her bowels going as they should. Alfalfa hay helps Rabbits grow faster and put on weight quicker. A pet rabbit should (always) be given Timothy hay. Nutritionally, it’s all she needs. She also had me limit her pellet consumption to 1 cup per day. As far as fruits and veggies, I can give her those but to introduce them slowly and watch her poops. I chose to introduce a new fruit/veggie 1x a week just to be on the safe side.
As far as the bonding process: I let Willow take the lead. I have sat on the floor for countless hours waiting for her to come up to me. I did find some cute tiny organic star treats on Etsy that she loves. When she came up to me, I’d offer her one of those (in moderation: too many treats are not good for a bunbun).
patience! Patience! Patience! Is what you need. I’ve learned to have A LOT of that with her and slowly, she’s become my sidekick. We’re at the point now (after 5 weeks) she lays under my feet, when I’m on the couch and if I get up, shes trailing close behind circling my feet if I stop. I still won’t pick her up and haven’t except to put her in her carrier or to put her in her pen. Perhaps get some steps that lead up to your bed if you want Rocket up there? They’re such fragile little beings if Rocket would kick and you accidentally drop him, it could break his spine or seriously injure him. Him kicking too hard can also cause him injury. Just be very, very careful.
Willows spay appointment is next month. (I tear up every time I think about it) but it has to be done and I know this. She is doing rather well with peeing in her litter box (actually, a hay box) but she’s in a play yard (made for dogs) with NO crate bottom. Bunnys don’t have pads on the bottom of their feet as dogs do, so a crate bottom isn’t good. I only put her in her pen at night and/or if we go somewhere (I’m a stay at home mom to a disabled kiddo). She does still leave her droppings everywhere but at least we have the peepee under control. If she did have an accident (during training) I used a mix of vinegar/water to clean it up. I wiped up the urine with a paper towel and placed the urine soaked paper towel in her litter box. A few times of that, she totally understood what I was telling her and she’s not urinated anywhere since. I never realized what a great cleaning agent vinegar was until we got Willow. It even cleaned bunny urine out of my white couch! I was so impressed lol Vinegar also removes the scent so she won’t peepee there again.
Those are just a few things I know that’s worked for Willow and what her veterinarian told me at her vet visit.… but I know, there’s still A LOT I don’t know and I too am learning something new everyday. I done so much research before I got her (like 3 years: different breeds, diets etc) but I’ll tell ya! Research helped, yes but there’s nothing like experiencing it first hand. One thing I did learn that’s the absolute truth: DON’T believe what they say on YouTube! Check multiple resources for a specific question you may have.
Bunny hugs to Rocket! 💜
I'm also happy that you are spaying Willow. I'd be terrified to, girls are more difficult to recover but it's better for her in the long run. Please let me know how she did. I was thinking about getting a girl bun once I get everything situated with Rocket (I'm not a fan of his cage and there are other things I need to get that I haven't gotten yet). Thank you for the advice about the hay!
 
I know I bombarded you with a lot of links. Have you had the chance to look through any?

The portions of pellets for transitioning are on the pellet feed page. You chose a good brand. As I mentioned, at his young age, the pellet amount should not be limited to just 1/4 cup. They need the extra nutrition in those pellets as they grow. Once he reaches 6 months of age, then the pellets can be reduced (and changed to adult pellets). Since the pellets have alfalfa, it is fine (ideal actually) to not have alfalfa in the hay mix.

There is info on RHVD2 on the forum here. It is highly contagious. If an infected rabbit simply hops on your yard and then your rabbit walks there, he'll likely get it. There is a map at the link that shows areas of infection. Only some vets in the US provide vaccinations for it.

Cat carrier is ideal for transport. Here is info on setting up the carrier safely.

If you regularly practice martial arts in that location, then by all means continue to do so. Bunny will get used to it.
Yes! I read all of the link you have provided. One of my friends and her sister are canine behavioralists. (They go beyond dog training).

My friend watched Stella interact with Rocket. She said Stella is doing what she has seen border collies do right before they get to herding sheep. Stella clearly wants to act on her instincts, but she wants my permission. She only seems scared of the bun at times solely because she wants to act on her instincts but knows that my reaction will be a disciplinary one.
I know we shouldn't dicipline our dogs for acting on instinct, but in this instance, I need to make a choice.

A: Dicipline Stella for acting on instincts to keep Rocket safe

B: Don't dicipline Stella and rehome Rocket.

On the plus side, I have bought those clear pet xpens that can be modified to barricade off a few areas of my bedroom / home office when I have Rocket out for hours of play time while I'm working from home (I am in office 1 day a week).

This works out because Stella is more bonded with my partner and his office is in the family den. So Stella will still get free range. The only real training is for keeping Rocket safe in his cage while Stella is in the room for night time.

I realized I didn't like Rocket's cage after I got it. I'm a DIY person because I'm generally not a fan with the way most products sold at box stores are made. So the blue print for Rocket's better cage is in the works. Complete with figuring out how to make it silent while Rockets moves around at night, but still make it fun and safe for him. This will take a while. (Cost for materials and figuring out what works).

For the base, I am thinking about using a carpet or rug. But Rocket needs to be WELL potty trained first. We have hard floors all throughout the house. I don't know if I want to commit to this idea yet due to upkeep. Might just be easier to get him a bed.
 
I thought I would clarify a little about pellet amounts and hay amounts for young rabbits. Typically you don't want to limit pellets too much for the reasons Blue Eyes mentioned. It's a good source of protein and nutrients for the growth a young rabbit will be doing, when you aren't feeding a more wild based forage diet. But rabbits still need some additional fiber from grass hay (or plants if feeding a forage diet), for optimal gut motility and health. It's all about finding the right balance between pellets (protein) and hay (indigestible fiber) amounts, for good weight maintenance and gut health.

Indigestible fiber in plants, is what stimulates gut motility and helps maintain the proper gut microflora which is important for a rabbits overall health, as a gut that has slowed down can lead to the development of GI stasis, or critical enteritis risks, particularly with newly weaned baby rabbits, who are at the highest risk of this. Add the stress of a new environment, and this can cause a serious imbalance in the gut to occur. This is why Blue Eyes suggested not to feed high sugar/carb treats yet, due to this risk. Medirabbit explains this risk with newly weaned baby rabbits really well if you want to check it out, but the article does have extremely graphic necropsy photos.

(LINK CONTAINS GRAPHIC MEDICAL RELATED NECROPSY PHOTOS)
Medirabbit: weaning enteritis/diarrhea

Medirabbit: bacterial and mucoid enteritis, enterotoxemia

But it's also important that the diet is balanced with foods with the necessary protein and nutrients, or you could end up with a different set of problems, like unhealthy weight loss, fatty liver disease, or an impacted cecum. I've found the best ways to ensure an optimal balance is being fed, is by closely monitoring the bunnies poop quality and the rabbits weight and body condition. If the poop isn't healthy looking, something is off. Or if a rabbit has unhealthy weight loss (or lack of growth for baby rabbits), that also indicates a problem. So if either occurs, this indicates a diet imbalance and/or a potential medical issue.

https://bunssb.org/bunnies/guide-bunny-poops
Monitoring your rabbits droppings

Monitoring your rabbits weight

https://wabbitwiki.com/wiki/Veterinary_emergencies
The problem that can occur with baby bunnies being free fed pellets, is some will favor the pellets and not eat enough, or any grass hay. For my baby rabbits, I only fed enough pellets to last about 6-8 hours, then the next 4-6 hours they ate their hay. This was with twice daily feedings. The basic recommendation is that a rabbit eat at least a pile of grass hay the size of their body per day. But this can also vary based on the cut of hay being fed.

https://wabbitwiki.com/wiki/Hay
Hay quality and the maturity of the cutting, will affect the nutrient and protein levels. A good quality green, soft, less mature hay, will be higher in protein and nutrients, so not as many pellets are usually necessary in the diet, as plenty of nutrients are being provided in the hay. The reverse of that is a coarse mature cut of hay that is primarily fiber with very little protein and nutrients, so more pellets are needed to help a rabbit maintain a good weight and health.

I've had rabbits with digestive disorders that required a no pellet diet. They were fed second cut grass hay, as I found that had the best balance of soft nutrient rich strands and coarse fiber rich stems, and also were fed select greens and forage. On this diet they maintained a good health and weight. I also have had a time in the past, where the hay I got was a more mature coarse hay, so I had to increase my rabbits pellet portion and actually limit the hay, as she was losing weight by preferring the hay over the pellets available to her.

Monitor droppings and weight, as well as the amount of pellets, hay, and water being consumed, and you'll more easily catch many potential problems early enough before it can become a more serious health problem.
 
Foam tiles might be a good option, provided your bun isn't a big chewer (ingestion would pose a gut blockage risk). They're waterproof (though not the seams where they connect), will dampen sound, and will provide some cushioning for their feet. I used them with my rabbits for about 8 years, and liked how they worked out for the most part. I did use tape to seal the seams as much as possible, to prevent pee accidents seeping through.
 
I thought I would clarify a little about pellet amounts and hay amounts for young rabbits. Typically you don't want to limit pellets too much for the reasons Blue Eyes mentioned. It's a good source of protein and nutrients for the growth a young rabbit will be doing, when you aren't feeding a more wild based forage diet. But rabbits still need some additional fiber from grass hay (or plants if feeding a forage diet), for optimal gut motility and health. It's all about finding the right balance between pellets (protein) and hay (indigestible fiber) amounts, for good weight maintenance and gut health.

Indigestible fiber in plants, is what stimulates gut motility and helps maintain the proper gut microflora which is important for a rabbits overall health, as a gut that has slowed down can lead to the development of GI stasis, or critical enteritis risks, particularly with newly weaned baby rabbits, who are at the highest risk of this. Add the stress of a new environment, and this can cause a serious imbalance in the gut to occur. This is why Blue Eyes suggested not to feed high sugar/carb treats yet, due to this risk. Medirabbit explains this risk with newly weaned baby rabbits really well if you want to check it out, but the article does have extremely graphic necropsy photos.

(LINK CONTAINS GRAPHIC MEDICAL RELATED NECROPSY PHOTOS)
Medirabbit: weaning enteritis/diarrhea

Medirabbit: bacterial and mucoid enteritis, enterotoxemia

But it's also important that the diet is balanced with foods with the necessary protein and nutrients, or you could end up with a different set of problems, like unhealthy weight loss, fatty liver disease, or an impacted cecum. I've found the best ways to ensure an optimal balance is being fed, is by closely monitoring the bunnies poop quality and the rabbits weight and body condition. If the poop isn't healthy looking, something is off. Or if a rabbit has unhealthy weight loss (or lack of growth for baby rabbits), that also indicates a problem. So if either occurs, this indicates a diet imbalance and/or a potential medical issue.

https://bunssb.org/bunnies/guide-bunny-poops
Monitoring your rabbits droppings

Monitoring your rabbits weight

https://wabbitwiki.com/wiki/Veterinary_emergencies
The problem that can occur with baby bunnies being free fed pellets, is some will favor the pellets and not eat enough, or any grass hay. For my baby rabbits, I only fed enough pellets to last about 6-8 hours, then the next 4-6 hours they ate their hay. This was with twice daily feedings. The basic recommendation is that a rabbit eat at least a pile of grass hay the size of their body per day. But this can also vary based on the cut of hay being fed.

https://wabbitwiki.com/wiki/Hay
Hay quality and the maturity of the cutting, will affect the nutrient and protein levels. A good quality green, soft, less mature hay, will be higher in protein and nutrients, so not as many pellets are usually necessary in the diet, as plenty of nutrients are being provided in the hay. The reverse of that is a coarse mature cut of hay that is primarily fiber with very little protein and nutrients, so more pellets are needed to help a rabbit maintain a good weight and health.

I've had rabbits with digestive disorders that required a no pellet diet. They were fed second cut grass hay, as I found that had the best balance of soft nutrient rich strands and coarse fiber rich stems, and also were fed select greens and forage. On this diet they maintained a good health and weight. I also have had a time in the past, where the hay I got was a more mature coarse hay, so I had to increase my rabbits pellet portion and actually limit the hay, as she was losing weight by preferring the hay over the pellets available to her.

Monitor droppings and weight, as well as the amount of pellets, hay, and water being consumed, and you'll more easily catch many potential problems early enough before it can become a more serious health problem.
OMG! What you said about baby rabbits favoring the pellets over hay is EXACTLY what Rocket does.

I stayed to the 1/4 cup measurement because when I didn't, Rocket focused SOLELY on his pellets and didn't tough the hay at all. It wasn't until all of his pellets were gone that's when he touched it. But even then, hours went by before he touched his hay until I hand fed his hay to him the first night he was home. He then started eating it right away. I gave him a water bottle partially filled his first night here but gave him a water dish filled to the rim. He didn't touch his water dish until his bottle was empty. Rocket clearly wasn't use to my hay (timothy mix with other hay), and he was bottle fed at his previous home.

But now I'm going BACK to the pet store again now. While writing this Rocket picked up his water dish and spilled it. 😑

I seriously thought he wouldn't be strong enough. It's metal and in a dish tray (for cats).

Ceramic it is. 🙄
Cat sized for weighing more.

By all of the information given from various sources, it seems the needs of the rabbit are based on the individual rabbit itself.
 
Thank you guys with all of the help! I do appreciate it.

I'll post updates of Rocket's progress and my cage plans!

Gonna see what this vet says. Hopefully it's some good advise. Again, I've got history of malpractice so I'm not so keen about this visit but it has to be done.
 
They also have dishes that clamp onto pen/cage bars, if you find a ceramic crock doesn't work well. I've had some very determined rabbits, that managed tipping over heavy ceramic crocks.

If you think it might be better to look for a different rabbit vet and you have the option available to you to look around, I would suggest doing that. Nothing worse than going to a vet you don't trust or is incompetent. It took me 3 tries before I found one I liked and trusted. First one was recommended by someone I know, but I detested that vet. Very condescending, combined with me knowing more about rabbit health than the vet, was not a good combination. The next vet was actually a really good rabbit vet, but had a tendency to significantly drive up costs unnecessarily. The vet I ended up with had a decent amount of rabbit knowledge, but also good at working with me to come up with the best treatment plan for my rabbits. It definitely can be quite a challenge to find a good rabbit vet.

https://wabbitwiki.com/wiki/Choosing_a_rabbit_veterinarian
https://rabbit.org/veterinarians/
 
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