Territorial and Cage Setup Question!

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ashleyxxpiano

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I've had my new bunny now for about a week. He's been peeing on the floor and on our couch quite a bit. There is one spot in particular that he likes to mark, so I tried putting down a litter box in that corner. Unfortunately, he will pee right next to it and hop in there and dig around like it's a fun little play area. I've read mixed ideas on how to properly stop this behavior. One site said to clap and yell no as loud as you can when you see them about to pee. I've been trying this but then he hops a few steps and gets into position to pee again. Another suggested picking him up and placing him in his cage (leaving the door open as to not punish them) in hopes that he'd get the hint, and if you see him pee in his cage to reward him. I put him in his cage but he hops right out and goes to the couch instead and pees... I did briefly have this problem with a previous rabbit, but as she got used to the environment she calmed down her marking and I'd even see her hop right back into her cage to go potty.

He was fixed the day before I purchased him and I believe I've also heard that they can get hormonal surges right after being fixed that will eventually subside. He's such a sweetie I'd never get rid of him no matter what. I am afraid that my clapping and running to pick him up will make him start being aggressive towards me as I have seen it happen before. What makes this worse is that he was 2 years old before he was fixed and he was found as stray which makes me wonder if his marking is why they got rid of him. Is there any advice anyone can offer on the topic?

Lastly, I don't think he even understands the concept of a litter box. He does pee in one corner of his cage. Right now I am just using a wire bottom cage and YES I HAVE A SPACE IN THE CAGE FOR HIM TO REST HIS FEET which thankfully he does not go potty on. ^_^ I guess my question here would be has anyone had a rabbit not use a litter box, but still not pee on the floor and choose to urinate within the cage only?
 
If you've only had him a week and he was just fixed a week ago, you have two issues going on. One is that he is still hormonal. Those hormones can take from 4-8 weeks post surgery to fully dissipate. Second is that he is still adjusting to his new home.

By letting him out too soon and giving him too much space too soon, it makes potty training that much harder. I would highly suggest you put him in his cage and leave him in his cage, with a litter box, for the next several days. He won't atrophy by being confined for a few days. But he needs to learn that the cage is his territory and his safe zone. This will actually be a comfort to him to know he has a safe zone. I think it is much easier for a bunny to "get" the idea of a litter box if the entire cage floor is solid and the only place with bedding is in the litter box. Having the wired bottom allows him to keep smelling the urine down there which just encourages him to continue to go there. They like to go where they smell the pee. If he does not pee on the solid portion you have for him, this affirms this idea. Have the whole cage floor solid because bunnies don't like to pee on solid surfaces. Then he will be far more likely to pee in the box.

Then, when you begin to let him out again, do so in a smaller, confined area. Ideally, you would just use an x-pen and create an area around his cage. That way he can begin to gain his freedom within the easy reach of his safe zone. He can also start to return to the cage to do his business.

If he is consistent in returning to the box, then his roaming area can be gradually expanded. Too much freedom, too soon, will be more likely to cause 'accident.'

Come to think of it, since he is so new to your home and so recently neutered, I might think it would be better to confine him for as much as a week. Use the time to try to remove the smell from any areas he has been going. White vinegar should help. It is just too tempting if he smells urine somewhere that you don't want him to go.
 
Okay thanks for the advice. I had to try a bunch of different cage configurations with my last bunny to find what worked best for her. My next move was taking out the wire bottom which did not work well for my last bun.

On the topic of too much space too soon. I have been looking at little bunny pens that wrap around the cage to confine him a bit more. Initially I was going to buy a cage with that attachment, but liked the design of the cage without it for functional purposes. He does beg to come out of his cage daily. Usually he wants to mark as soon as he gets out in the morning, but later in the day he's content to simply explore or lay down with our dog. Our living room is quite small and leads into the kitchen which is not carpeted and therefore he will typically not explore. He seems very comfortable already, but if you feel leaving him in his cage would be helpful then I'm willing to try it in addition to changing the wire flooring... Although it will be hard he begs to get out during the day haha he will follow you around his cage depending on what side you're closest too and stand up on his hind legs lol
 
Yeah, he's marking for two reasons -- to establish his new territory and because he's got residual hormones. "His" territory should be his cage, so keeping him confined for a time will teach him that -- especially if he begs to come out. ;) The rest of the area outside of his cage is "shared" territory (with dog and cat), but he hasn't realized that yet. He was getting the idea that he has to establish his own territory within that space. So by confining him, he is learning.

Even with a smaller living room, I would still use an x-pen or some similar barricade to confine the area once he's had his time in the cage. It can be removed later as he progresses. It's just important to expand his space slowly and gradually. Be sure the pen is tall enough. The ones I've seen that come with the store bought cages were too short and a determined bunny could easily get over it.

He's clearly comfortable outside the cage, but remember, the confining is so that he 'takes ownership' of his cage as his primary sanctuary and - most importantly - for him to reserve all peeing for in his litter box in the cage. Even if you will eventually leave the cage door open all day long (like I do), it is of great benefit to the rabbit to still see his cage as his own private sanctuary that is his alone.
 
Awesome, thank you! There are so many different "ideas" out there on whats best, I was just curious to see if there was something that works better for others out there, and what I could do for him right away to help get him situated. Ideally, I would like to leave him out most of the day like I did with my Violet. It was promising to me that the first day I brought him home and opened the carrier that he hopped right into his new cage as if he knew it was his already. And I agree it seems as though most of the pens were designed for guinea pigs ha. ^_^
 

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