wendymac wrote:
Pellets are a complete feed. Which means that, as long as he's eating his pellets, the hay is just for added fiber and something to munch on. My buns all get unlimited pellets and hay. Some are big hay eaters and some aren't.
The feeding & nutrition section on this forum, most rescues and the House Rabbit Society would disagree with your view on pellets. Indoor pet bunnies do not do best on a high pellet diet. But I see you have a rabbitry?
The high pellet diet that you use for your situation may be fine for you, but please bear in mind that most of us are discussing ourpet rabbits and the diet you advocate does not (should not) apply to our house bunnies. I've picked out portions of the following article which seemed to explain it well.
http://rabbit.org/journal/3-4/pellets.htmldoes explain why breeders tend to go with more pellets:
"Since pellets are manufactured and marketed primarily for breeders, and since most breeder rabbits are subject to more stress than house rabbits, many brands of pellets are labeled as "performance" feeds. These brands contain a high level of protein (16-22%), which is probably necessary to keep alive a rabbit who lives in an environment without climate control, is bred as often as possible, or is nursing most of the time. Physical, environmental, and psychological stresses require high energy levels for survival.
A healthier protein percentage for spayed or neutered house rabbits is approximately 12-14%, a level at which it is possible to find pellet brands that contain no animal fat and list at least some actual ingredients on their labels...
"...The highly concentrated nature of pellets ensures that rabbits gain weight quickly, important for many breeders since those rabbits not bred are often slaughtered for meat by the age of 16 weeks. (UFAW Handbook 1987, 426).
"Because of several potential problems associated with pellets, some veterinarians now recommend that pellets be not only rationed, but rationed quite severely. Instead of giving the rabbit all she can eat in a day, a night, or a few hours, we have been considering the following amounts as maximums (Brown 2009):
5-7 lb of body wt. 1/4 cup daily
8-10 lb body wt. 1/2 cup daily
11-15 lb of body wt. 3/4 cup daily
"Once pellets have been reduced, it is equally important to make sure that fresh grass hay is available to the rabbit at all times, and that fresh vegetables be given in larger amounts than has previously been recommended (up to 2-4 cups a day). Actually, because of the problems usually associated with the overfeeding of pellets, some rabbits do better if they receive no pellets at all..."