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samandshawn

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Apr 4, 2005
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Location
Cornwall, , United Kingdom
I am considering going into showing and breedingNetherland Dwarf's, i just spent all day with a localbreeder, she was great my mind is still boggling with info, i like thewhite and the Sables,she suggested that I have a couple ofbucks now to get the feel of showing and then have some does from herat a later date with breeding in mind. She seems to know herstuff and said she will help me all the way, the only thing that sheasks is i keep her line going by buying her does, or If I want to go tosomeone else then she will help me find the right does, I will not bejumping into this, but I am very excited, she also has a block of cagesthat i can have from her cheaply because she is having all new ones putin.
Does anyone have some good sites,books etc that they can suggest to me, also any advice is greatly appreciated
 
Thanks yep i am a member of the BRC, i will takea look at the site, i will think of some questions and post them soon,I have so many lol, one thing she said was that i am better offstarting with a buck because they do better than does in shows is thisthe case?
 
I think you are better off to start with a buckthey usually do better and you can show him longer.it is better to getrelated stock.i think the biggest mistake beginners make is gettingunrelated stock from different people.you get inconsistent results.Goodluck to you.bluebird
 
You can find the accepted varieties, photosand standardson the BRC link that I posted for you.

Pam

SELF COLORS
WHITE- As pure a white as possible, creamy or yellow tinge a fault Eyecolour ruby red OR rich dark blue.
BLACK - A rich lustrous black, slate blue undercolour, brown tinge a fault.
BLUE - A clear, bright medium shade of blue(not lavender) throughout, from tip of fur to skin.
BROWN - A rich dark chocolate, colour goingwell down the fur with a pearl-grey undercolour.
LILAC - A pinky dove-grey throughout from tipof fur to skin. Bluish tinge a fault.
SHADED
SABLE (SIAMESE) MEDIUM - To be a very richsepia on ears, face, back outside of legs and upper side of tail, thesaddle colour, shading off to a considerable paler colour on flanks andbelly, the dark face colour to shade off from eyes to jowl to blendwith the chest and flanks, all blending to be gradual, avoiding anyblotches or streaks and consisting of a soft and varied diffusion ofsepia shadings. The dark colour on back to extend from head to tail.The chest to be of the same colour as flanks and the whole fur to beabsolutely free from white hairs. The undercolour to match the surfacecolour as closely as possible, following the varied shadingsthroughout.
SABLE (SIAMESE) LIGHT - As MEDIUM, but colour to be 'Rich Sepia'
SABLE (SIAMESE) DARK - As MEDIUM, but colourto be 'Very Rich Dark Sepia' NB The main difference in the threecolours is the width of saddle in tone and intensity of Sepiacolour.
SMOKE PEARL (SIAMESE) - The saddle to extendfrom nape to tail to be smoke in colour, shading to pearl grey beige onflanks, chest and belly and to be totally free from white throughout.Head, ears. feet and upper side of tail to match saddle as near aspossible. All shading to be gradual avoiding blotches or streaksgeneral undercolour to match surface colour as closely as possiblefollowing the varied shadings throughout.
SEAL POINT - A rich dark sepia brown on ears,nose, feet and tail. Shading to be a lighter colour on the body. Eyecolour to be dark brown. Faults: blotchy colour on body. Body colourtoo light or too dark so as to lose the decided contrast between thebody colour and the marking colour.
TORTOISESHELL (formerly) 'Madagascar' or'Sooty Fawn' - Rich orange saddle, gradually shading to a blue black onthe flanks, haunches and belly 'Points' bluish-black. Top colour to gowell down the fur with a bluish-white undercolour
AGOUTI PATTERNED
AGOUTI - A rich chestnut shade with blackticking over an intermediate orange band and a dark slate blueundercolour. Ears laced black. Eye circles, underside of tail and bellyto be white with slate undercolour.
OPAL - Top colour pale shade of blue with afawn band between this and a slate blue undercolour. Ears laced blue.Eye circles underside of tail and belly to be white with slateundercolour.
LYNX - Orange - shot - silver. Intermediatecolour to be bright orange clearly defined on white undercolour. Tipsof fur silver, belly, eye circles, inside ears and underside of jowlwhite. Chest to match flanks. Serious faults, bluish tinge on top, blueundercolour.
CHINCHILLA - To resemble real chinchilla theundercolour to be dark slate blue at base, intermediate portion pearl(slate to be definitely wider than pearl) with black narrow lineedging, pearling to be clearly defined, top grey, brightly ticked withblack hairs, either even or wavy ticking admissible, neck fur lighterin colour than body but strictly confined to nape; flanks and chestticked with uniform shade of pearl slightly lighter than body; eyecircles light grey - pearl, well defined, ears laced with black.SQUIRREL - A sparkling blend of blue and white with blue ticking overan intermediate pearly white band with a light slate undercolour. Earslaced blue. Eye circles underside of tail and belly to be white withlight slate undercolour.

[align=center]TAN PATTERNED
TANS - Body colour to be either black, blue,chocolate or lilac and to go down the fur as far as possible withundercolour of appropriate Self colour. Belly chest, eye circles,inside of ears, underside of jowl and tail and triangle to be rich tan.Face and outside of ears to match body colour.
FOXES - Body colour to be either black, blue,chocolate or lilac and to go down the fur as far as possible withundercolour or appropriate Self colour. Chest, flanks and feet to bewell ticked with white guard hairs. Eye circles, inside of ears,underside of jowl and tail, belly and triangle to bewhite.
SABLE MARTEN MEDIUM - To be very rich sepiaon back, ears face and outside legs, and upper side of tail, the saddlecolour shading of to a paler colour on flanks, the dark face colour toblend with chest and flanks, all blending to be gradual avoiding anyblotches or streaks and consisting of a soft and varied diffusion ofsepia shadings, the dark colour on back to extend from nape of neck totail, the chest, flanks, rump and feet to be well ticked with longerwhite hairs, white hairs or any extension of white ticking over sidesand rump to be considered an added beauty and not a fault, but ears andsaddle to be free of white hairs, the light nape of neck to be confinedto 5 triangle behind the ears and to be as small as possible; eyecircles, inside of ears, line of jaws, belly and underside of tail tobe white. General undercolour to match surface colour as closely aspossible following the varied shadings throughout.
SABLE MARTEN LIGHT - As MEDIUM but colour to be rich sepia.
SABLE MARTEN DARK - As MEDIUM but colour to be very rich dark sepia.
SMOKE PEARL (MARTEN) - The saddle to extendfrom nape to tail, to be smoke colour, shading to pearl grey beige onflanks and chest. Head, ears feet and upper side of tail to matchsaddle as near as possible. Chest, flanks, rump and feet to be wellticked with longer white hairs, the light nape of the neck to beconfined to the triangle behind the ears and to be as small aspossible. The eye circles, inside the ears, line of jaw, insidenostrils, inside of legs and feet, belly and underside of tail andtriangle to be white. The colour under white belly fur should befawn.
OTTER - Colour black, blue , chocolate orlilac, uniform colour to cover back and sides. The underbody or bellyto be creamy white also under the chin and tail. A tan border to dividethe white and colour and encircle nostril and under chin. A mixture ofbody colour and tan covers feet. Tan ticking to the chest, flanks andrump, extended ticking to be an added beauty not a fault. Tan eyecircle and nape of neck. The ears to be as body colour bordered onoutside with tan which covers inside of ears. Fault: a distinct lack oftan from proper parts.

[align=center]OTHER VARIETIES
ORANGE - Bright orange saddle shading downthe flanks. Colour to go well down the fur with a white undercolour.Chest to match flanks. Eye circles, inside of ears, underside of jowland tail, and belly to be white.
FAWN - Warm fawn saddle shading down theflanks. Colour to go well down the fur with 5 white undercolour. Chestto match flanks. Eye circles, inside of ears, underside of jowl andtail and belly to be white.
STEEL - To be bright steel throughout. Head,feet ears and belly to match body colours. Colour to bess free aspossible from a brown tinge. Undercolour, dark slate, carried well downto the skin, with no trace of a grey or yellow band. Faults: band inundercolour. Feet and ears not matching body colour. Barred feet.Undercolour of tail can be lighter.
HIMALAYAN - Distribution of colouring as forthe Normal Himalayan rabbit.The Himalayan Netherland Dwarf isrecognised in all four colours, namely Black, Chocolate, Blue andLilac
ANY OTHER COLOUR - Accept any other colour solong as it conforms to the normal pattern of accepted colours of otherbreeds.[/align]

[/align]
 
Thanks pam, but I couldnt look at everything onthe BRC because when I clicked on thing It kept saying page notfound. i found this site what do you think

http://www.islandgems.net/dwarfinfo.html

It seems quite good there are lots of pics too which I found helpfull,as my son wants to show too, and its easier to show him pics than justtell him something


I just spend a coupple of houre with her she gave me some info to takeaway and two gooks, one on showing and one on nevys, she is reallyhelpfull and has also shown me some of her buns that were in the furand feather mag
 
I'll share with you what I was told when I wanted to start breeding.

a. Put your money into the best herd buck you canget. Why? Because all of your babies will be comingfrom him at first. Yes - get good does...but the buck is whatneeds to be close to "perfect"..

b. Pick the colors you want to work with and focus on those when starting out.

c. Buy the best quality you can in all of youranimals....sometimes you can find good animals cheap - but don't buycheap animals just to get them...

I think this is a website you'll enjoy - I refer to it almost all the time when I plan breedings...

http://islandgems.net/compatible-colors.html

Well, I think that is all for now - I'll try to think if I have any more tips.

I don't know how I feel about this woman telling you to stick with herlines...if it were me - I'd want to be able to bring in different linesto widen the gene pool...

Peg
 
She said if I wanted to go with different linesthen I could but she would help me ppick the right ones, I think shemanly said that because the line has been developed over 50 years andshe didnt want me to undo all the hard work by breeding with just anyrabbit . Thanks the link is from the same site i posted lol, the firstbuck i am getting a a young buck from very good stock, the second is achampion, I havent fully made up my mind about the colours buti like the white ruby eyed white, and the MartenSable.
 
samandshawn wrote:
Thanks pam, but I couldnt look at everything on the BRCbecause when I clicked on thing It kept saying page notfound. i found this site what do you think

http://www.islandgems.net/dwarfinfo.html


Remember that the UK standards and accepted colors are different thanours here in the US. Try typing the BRC website address intoyour addy bar and see if it works.http://www.thebrc.org/The link and website are working for me.



Pam
 
You'll want to stick with breeding REW to REWand keep with the same color groups when breeding. REW's aregenerally not mixed with other colors because you don't know what colorgenes they are actually carrying and you may get non-showable colors.

Pam
 
I should mention that sable marten can be adifficult color to work with when you are trying to get the correctcolor (not too dark -- not too light). They are also notgenerally in a good color coat year - round and the coats often appearsplotchy in color.

Pam
 
pamnock wrote:
You'll want to stick with breeding REW to REW and keep withthe same color groups when breeding. REW's are generally notmixed with other colors because you don't know what color genes theyare actually carrying and you may get non-showable colors.

Pam
Ok, what colours do you have, what are your favorite
 
I've had many colors over the years. In the Netherland Dwarfs, Black Otter is one of my favorite varieties.



Pam
 
pamnock wrote:
Ishould mention that sable marten can be a difficult color to work withwhen you are trying to get the correct color (not too dark -- not toolight). They are also not generally in a good color coat year- round and the coats often appear splotchy in color.

Pam
Is it correct that they come in light, mediun and dark? Its ok i amwsered my own question
 
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