Litter training

[Kaoticness]

So possibly getting a new rabbit on Monday(waiting for the seller to confirm I can pick him up), ahead of schedule but it gets him out of his crappy housing crisis. He is not trained AT ALL; I am not prepared but I need to be. Litter above hay is a start but is that just it? He'll automatically go to his litter to go potty afterwards. My lop came to me potty trained and he pees in his litter box, no accidents at all. I've no clue how to protect the floors, was thinking about laying towels down but who knows how absorbent they'll be while I'm asleep or at work.

 

[JBun]

For litter training, there are certain steps and area/litter box set up that can help maximize success. Neutering can most often, improve litter habits as well.

Bringing Your Rabbit Home

[ Tablet users, try the "web" version by clicking on "web" at the bottom of this page for a better, user-friendly format . ]

rabbitsindoors.weebly.com

Litter Training

[ Tablet users, try the "web" version by clicking on "web" at the bottom of this page for a better, user-friendly format . ]

rabbitsindoors.weebly.com

Litter training

Rabbits are generally easily litter trained.

wabbitwiki.com

Spaying and neutering rabbits

wabbitwiki.com

With having a bun already, be prepared for a possible territory marking 'war', with both rabbits, particularly if they're going to be kept within sight or hearing distance of one another. Even just the scent of another bun can set this off. Also be prepared for possible aggression from either bun, as just the scent of another bun being around can be enough to set some buns off, particularly if neither are neutered.

Towels definitely aren't enough (usually), and unlikely to stay put. I'd recommend a waterproof barrier. A heavy duty tarp can work as a temporary one, but could get holes chewed in it if bun is a chewer. A more permanent chew resistant waterproof barrier if your flooring needs to be protected, is textured lino (vinyl flooring). Whatever you use make sure it's safe for your bun. Holes chewed in things can become a tangle risk for bunny feet and heads. Pieces of foreign material chewed off and ingested can become a gut blockage risk if large enough pieces or significant amounts are ingested.

What is the best floor for my bunny enclosure?

We look at the pros and cons of flooring to help you choose the best for your bunny.

bunnyproof.com

It all depends on how destructive the bun is, for the amount of bunny proofing that will be needed.

Bunny-proofing

wabbitwiki.com

Bunny Proofing

[ Tablet users, try the "web" version by clicking on "web" at the bottom of this page for a better, user-friendly format . ]

rabbitsindoors.weebly.com

Don't forget to get transition feed from the person you're getting him from, if possible. Also a list of his exact diet, feeding schedule, health history, and any behavior traits, can all be useful things to know.

If anything comes with him (eg cage/pen, blanket, toys), having familiar things can help him settle in better. If he's a more nervy bun, he may need to be kept in a quite area for now, with slow gradual interaction to not be overwhelmed and stressed being in a new home. If he's chill, curious, and/or immediately interested and friendly, he may settle in quickly and without any problems.

Bonding With Your Bunny

[ Tablet users, try the "web" version by clicking on "web" at the bottom of this page for a better, user-friendly format . ]

rabbitsindoors.weebly.com

 

[JBun]

Not that this can't go pretty smoothly without too many issues. But it's always best to know the worst case scenario, so that if problems do arise, you're better equipped to deal with it and get things worked out.

 

[Kaoticness]

For litter training, there are certain steps and area/litter box set up that can help maximize success. Neutering can most often, improve litter habits as well.

Bringing Your Rabbit Home

[ Tablet users, try the "web" version by clicking on "web" at the bottom of this page for a better, user-friendly format . ]

rabbitsindoors.weebly.com

Litter Training

[ Tablet users, try the "web" version by clicking on "web" at the bottom of this page for a better, user-friendly format . ]

rabbitsindoors.weebly.com

Litter training

Rabbits are generally easily litter trained.

wabbitwiki.com

Spaying and neutering rabbits

wabbitwiki.com

With having a bun already, be prepared for a possible territory marking 'war', with both rabbits, particularly if they're going to be kept within sight or hearing distance of one another. Even just the scent of another bun can set this off. Also be prepared for possible aggression from either bun, as just the scent of another bun being around can be enough to set some buns off, particularly if neither are neutered.

Towels definitely aren't enough (usually), and unlikely to stay put. I'd recommend a waterproof barrier. A heavy duty tarp can work as a temporary one, but could get holes chewed in it if bun is a chewer. A more permanent chew resistant waterproof barrier if your flooring needs to be protected, is textured lino (vinyl flooring). Whatever you use make sure it's safe for your bun. Holes chewed in things can become a tangle risk for bunny feet and heads. Pieces of foreign material chewed off and ingested can become a gut blockage risk if large enough pieces or significant amounts are ingested.

What is the best floor for my bunny enclosure?

We look at the pros and cons of flooring to help you choose the best for your bunny.

bunnyproof.com

It all depends on how destructive the bun is, for the amount of bunny proofing that will be needed.

Bunny-proofing

wabbitwiki.com

Bunny Proofing

[ Tablet users, try the "web" version by clicking on "web" at the bottom of this page for a better, user-friendly format . ]

rabbitsindoors.weebly.com

Don't forget to get transition feed from the person you're getting him from, if possible. Also a list of his exact diet, feeding schedule, health history, and any behavior traits, can all be useful things to know.

If anything comes with him (eg cage/pen, blanket, toys), having familiar things can help him settle in better. If he's a more nervy bun, he may need to be kept in a quite area for now, with slow gradual interaction to not be overwhelmed and stressed being in a new home. If he's chill, curious, and/or immediately interested and friendly, he may settle in quickly and without any problems.

Bonding With Your Bunny

[ Tablet users, try the "web" version by clicking on "web" at the bottom of this page for a better, user-friendly format . ]

rabbitsindoors.weebly.com

The territory thing is what I’m most afraid of. I have no other place to put him besides in my room and that’s where my current bunny is at. My room has a dividing wall but you mentioned with noise and scent the new rabbit would be detected. My current guy is altered so I know he won’t spray, but the bunny I’m getting isn’t so I risk him spraying then trying to claim my room I assume?
To add, my rabbit hasn’t been allowed into my part of the room(there’s a rabbit section and then my section). He’s also not rubbed his chin on anything when he gets his time out of the cage but I can only assume that despite all that, it’s still *his* territory.
The seller reached out and said I’m getting none of the rabbit’s stuff. I am going to try and coax to get some food to help start the transition process otherwise I have to buy a 25lb bag of rabbit food that I’ll just throw out in the end(it’s Smallworld Rabbit Pellets).

This makes me incredibly nervous now knowing all this but I’ll definitely do what I can, not overly worried about the floor cause it’s like a cheap vinyl wood flooring just probably gonna have to clean and mop his cage on a daily.

 

[JBun]

You could luck out and they could just be very interested in each other with no poop or urine marking going on. But more commonly, if the new bun is sexually mature (2+ months old) and he thinks your bun is a potential mate, even though he's a neutered male, this could cause some hormonal spraying from the new bun. If this happens, blocking him from being able to see your bun, may help with that. A piece of cardboard between pens can work. In the very least, a solid barrier can help contain where the pee gets sprayed.

You really won't know until you get him there and he starts to settle in. But hormonal spraying is one very good reason why people get their pet male buns neutered. It's especially disgusting when you get a shot of that pee right in your face

If you don't have something solid blocking them from seeing each other, do at least make sure there's a gap between their pens, at least until you've determined there's zero aggression from either bun. You just don't want to end up with a bite wound on a nose or ear, especially one that requires medical attention.

See how it goes. As you get a better idea from their reactions to one another, that can help guide you to how you'll need to adapt things to work out for you. That might include moving litter box locations or setting up secondary litter boxes in areas that are getting urine marking puddles. The pen wall between two buns areas can be a common place for this to happen. So having litter boxes directly opposite one another, is often what works best.

With the transition feed, maybe if you offer the person a few dollars, they may be willing to give you some. Saves you having to buy a whole bag.

 

[Kaoticness]

You could luck out and they could just be very interested in each other with no poop or urine marking going on. But more commonly, if the new bun is sexually mature (2+ months old) and he thinks your bun is a potential mate, even though he's a neutered male, this could cause some hormonal spraying from the new bun. If this happens, blocking him from being able to see your bun, may help with that. A piece of cardboard between pens can work. In the very least, a solid barrier can help contain where the pee gets sprayed.

You really won't know until you get him there and he starts to settle in. But hormonal spraying is one very good reason why people get their pet male buns neutered. It's especially disgusting when you get a shot of that pee right in your face

If you don't have something solid blocking them from seeing each other, do at least make sure there's a gap between their pens, at least until you've determined there's zero aggression from either bun. You just don't want to end up with a bite wound on a nose or ear, especially one that requires medical attention.

See how it goes. As you get a better idea from their reactions to one another, that can help guide you to how you'll need to adapt things to work out for you. That might include moving litter box locations or setting up secondary litter boxes in areas that are getting urine marking puddles. The pen wall between two buns areas can be a common place for this to happen. So having litter boxes directly opposite one another, is often what works best.

With the transition feed, maybe if you offer the person a few dollars, they may be willing to give you some. Saves you having to buy a whole bag.

I picked up a bag of it today and I’m definitely throwing it away once he’s transitioned. I’m going to call the vet on my way to pick him up to schedule his check up in 2 weeks so he has time to settle and we can assess his health more. He has had no access to hay and that is going to change immediately. I’m going to put him in my half of the room and see how he’ll react to a 1x2 cage(to work on litter training) and then push it to be 2x2 after we’ve had no accidents. I’m incredibly nervous but dedicated and ready for this challenge. I trust myself and I know my vet will help out too!

 

[gizmoo]

Hi, thank you for your advice it also helps me with my rabbit.

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