Two questions.

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kisha.princess

Princess
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Dec 28, 2013
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South Dakota
So first, princess loves going under the bird cages, I imagine she probably eats a few seeds or something. Is this bad? 2, both my babes have grated litter boxes, are they still able to eat their cecotropes???
 
If there are just a few seeds that are under there getting eaten, then that might be ok as long as her poop is normal and it's not creating any digestive issues for her. You just don't want her getting too much.

Cecotropes are usually eaten straight from their bottom, as they come out. When they duck their head down there and come back up munching, that's what they are doing. If you are finding cecotropes actually in the litter pan, then that would mean your rabbit isn't eating them, and that could be from a variety of reasons.
 
Thank goodness! I was worrying :) but also Ollie was bought from a pet store and when he hops it usually looks forced and I was thinking of getting him joint health tablets from oxbow. Do you think they would be good?
 
I would be concerned about going under the bird cages, not just for the seeds, but I believe bird poop can carry some diseases which are quite bad for rabbits.
 
I agree, it's probably safest to block access to the area under the bird cages. An x-pen or NIC grid fencing is usually the go-to option. If that's a bit expensive for you but you have a power drill (and maybe some cheap wire cutters), you could get kiln-dried lumber (dunno about other places, but Home Depot sells kiln-dried 2x4x8s (and longer lengths, I think) and 1x4x14s; sadly, their 1x2s, 2x2s and 1x3s aren't available in a KD option) and chicken wire to ghetto-rig some fencing - that wouldn't cost more than $10-15 to do. If you don't have an appropriate power saw, just figure out what lengths of wood you'd need before you buy it and you can get the wood cut to the sizes you need at the store for free.

A $10 staple gun would work to attach the chicken wire; if you used screws, you'd need some washers to make the heads wide enough to hold it in place. Just make sure any pointy bits on the cut edges of the chicken wire aren't exposed to the bunny (easy to do by attaching the chicken wire to the inside of the fencing).

Wood-buying rules:
~ no cedar
~ soft woods other than cedar must say they're kiln-dried (or "KD")
~ no treated wood
~ no weather-resistant/outdoor wood (translates to "treated")
~ no particle board, MDF or OSB
~ all hardwoods are safe, but they're much more expensive and aren't available for "framing lumber" (ie the more narrow widths you'd want for something like this)

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Most herbs (including those two) are safe for bunnies to eat (source: http://kanin.org/node/191 )... however, I don't know if they'd even be interested in tea and if it was pre-packaged tea, you'd need to verify that all the other ingredients were safe as well (caffeine, for example, is a huge no-no). If you do offer tea, don't mix it in with the regular water - make sure plain water is still available. Honestly, though, a bunny would much rather have the actual herbs than tea made from them (and that would be healthier for them, too) ;).
 

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