Sudden death, other rabbit not eating

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Michelledickerhoff

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I've had my male rabbit for 9 months I bought him when he was little, I got him fixed 3 weeks ago, so I decided to get a girl bunny! I had her for three days and she seizures and died yesterday! :( all day yesterday she just sat in one spot looking all depressed she wouldn't eat she would only drink water, she was eating fine the day before, she was leaking a slimy clear stuff out of her vaginal area(I don't know if that had anything to do with it or not) I had whent to work at 345 and my boyfriend came home at 430 and she was laying on her side gasping for air then seizures and died! Now my male rabbit has not ate last night or today and is sitting in one spot looking depressed! I don't know what to do I don't know what I'd do if I lost him !! What do yu think ?
 
We don't have a 24 hour emergency vet. The one that does rabbits doesn't open until 8 am! I'm so worried about him, I'm going to get him there right when they open I just hope he is okayy overnight I'm going to work on getting him to eat!
 
This is a very old thread. I'm going to create a new thread for you with the same title.

Is your rabbit eating or drinking anything at all? Is he pooping at all and what does it look like? Is he showing signs of pain such as sitting hunched up and not moving around, grinding teeth, constantly changing positions and belly pressing, eye squinting, any other behavior that isn't normal for him? Is his belly bloated at all or is there loud gurgling coming from it?
 
I'm new to this it's my first day on here so idk anything about it. I have not seen him eat since I've been home from work. If he did eat while I was gone it wasn't much. He is drinking a lot of water more than normal. All the terds I see look normal. I didn't hear any gurgling. He is sitting in one spot not moving at all unless to take a drink I have his food and water right next to him. Usually when he sits he has his feet tucked under kinda laying down, but he's pretty much just standing there with a faded look in his eyes. Not moving at all
 
It's not a problem.

He's not moving because he is in pain. It's possible he has some gas pain, which can actually have very serous consequences in rabbits. You could try some infant gas relief drops(simethicone). If you have the adult kind handy, you can use that too, but it may be more difficult to administer. The infant drops you use a needleless syringe and give 1-2cc every hour for 3 hours, then every 3-8 hours as needed. Pain relief is pretty vital, but the best one for rabbits is metacam, and that is rx only. Aspirin can supposedly be used in rabbits if there is no bleeding(it's a blood thinner), but I have never used aspirin myself, so can't say for sure. Here's dosage info for it, but I don't know anything more than that. If nothing else, you can at least try the simethicone.

http://www.medirabbit.com/Safe_medication/Analgesics/safe_analgesics.htm

When a rabbit isn't eating on it's own it usually needs to be force fed. But it shouldn't be done if there is a complete blockage, and only your vet can rule that out. You could try to see if he will eat any leafy greens on his own. Rabbits that aren't feeling well, will sometimes eat these when they aren't eating their normal food. Don't feed cruciferous ones. Stick to dark leafy lettuce, cilantro, parsley, carrot greens, etc.

You can read over the ileus link, as that will give you a general idea of what is happening with your rabbit and what is needed to help your rabbit.
 
I am going to try it and see. I just hope he pulls thru! Thank yu so much for your advice!
 
I'm glad it worked and he's eating something. I hope he is feeling all better soon.
 
I'm so sorry about your new girl dying! :pray: (And really glad JBun was around to help you while I was sleeping!). Welcome to RO, by the way - I really wish we weren't meeting you under such tragic circumstances, but hopefully we can help you get through this!

Where did you get her from? Regardless of the source, I really think you should inform them about her death, as it could affect their other rabbits as well if the cause was contagious (which can't be ruled out at this point).

Unless her body has been kept cool (refrigerated but not frozen), it's most likely no longer possible for a vet to get viable tissue samples for a histeopathy but it may still be possible to determine COD from a necropsy (animal autopsy). This would be a good idea in your situation, but a necropsy is a little pricey (my vet's prices are a little on the high side ($75 exam fee) - I think it cost around $80-$100 when I got a sugar glider necropsied; it was $160ish total but a good chunk of that was the fee for the histeopathy).

If I were you, then (assuming you still have her body) I would contact the place you got her from, explain that she fell ill and died so quickly you weren't even able to get her to a vet in time, tell them you have an existing rabbit that you're concerned has been exposed if she died of something contagious and attempt to talk them into footing the bill for a necropsy (don't be afraid to be a smidge pushy while still being tactful). I don't know how good the odds are of them agreeing to pay (and can't wager a guess without knowing where you got her), but it's at least worth a shot.

If they won't cover a necropsy, I'd discuss her symptoms (and his) with your vet (and tell them the conditions her body has been kept in) first thing in the morning... I suggest calling them and specifically asking to speak with the actual vet, that way you know beforehand whether or not you should bring her body to the visit. If your vet feels very strongly that a necropsy would help them correctly diagnose and treat your male rabbit, then you might consider getting one done if you can afford it; if they don't, then I doubt it's worth the expense to you since $80 or whatever is a good bit of money.

For what it's worth, when I paid for a necropsy, it was because of very sudden, severe illness/death en-route to the emergency vet in a "pregnant" glider (they're marsupials; the joey was still in her pouch) - she had a cagemate and I had another pair of gliders living beside them, plus necropsies are considered mandatory in the glider community when a breeding glider dies inexplicably. For the average pet owner, I wouldn't consider a necropsy necessary unless the vet believes the results could help them save another pet's life.

~~~~~

As for your boy, I'm SO glad you got him to eat his veggies! You should definitely still get him checked out today, though, even if he seems to be doing better (especially in light of the sudden death).

What to expect at the vet visit:
The vet will probably prescribe metacam (for pain/discomfort) and a GI motility drug like metoclopramide (Reglan) or cisapride [Note: drug names will probably differ if you're not in the US] as a precaution even if he's still eating a little.

While they won't be able to provide a definite COD unless you end up getting a necropsy done, the vet should be able to discuss the possibilities with you based on her symptoms and the swift progression and tell you whether each potential cause is communicable (as well as their likelihood of being transmitted to your rabbit).

They should also ask questions and possibly run tests to try to determine the underlying cause of the GI stasis (or pre-stasis) symptoms your male is displaying - GI stasis isn't a true diagnosis as it has MANY potential causes and, depending on what caused it, the stasis could easily reoccur if the true issue isn't addressed properly.

Depending on what they think caused your girl's seizures and death and whether they can pinpoint a cause of your boy's symptoms, the vet may recommend some sort of precautionary treatment; failing that, if her COD can't be ruled out as potentially communicable, they may be able to tell you what warning signs to watch out for in your male (while you may not have seen any in the girl prior to her seizures, that could be because there weren't any OR it could be because rabbits hide sickness well and the warning signs were so subtle that it takes a trained eye to be able to spot them).

~~~~~

As a note, it's always a good idea to quarantine (or at least isolate) a new animal that you bring home if you have an existing pet of the same species... recommended time frames vary - for sugar gliders, we always tell people 30 days; when I filled out a foster application with the SPCA, I saw that their recommendation (for all animals) is 14 days (minimum). Quarantine/isolation is always recommended even if you trust the source of the new animal AND even if they got a clean bill of health from a vet immediately before or after you got them, as something that wasn't apparent at the vet check could progress to the point of being symptomatic in the next 2-4 weeks.

[PLEASE don't take that as any sort of criticism or judgment! I am not - in any way - trying to scold or lecture you for not taking the "proper" precautionary measures to prevent your other rabbit from potentially being at risk, as it's completely understandable that you didn't - in my experience, *most* people never think to quarantine or isolate a seemingly healthy new animal until someone suggests it to them and/or they have a bad experience. I just wanted to mention the benefits of quarantine to help you prevent something like this from ever happening again should you decide you still want to find him a companion.]

~~~~~

Binky free, little girl :rainbow: ... and we'll be keeping your male rabbit in our thoughts, wishing for his swift recovery.
 
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While your situation truly necessitates a vet visit ASAP and it's nearly morning now anyway, I'm going to go ahead and share my usual (copy/paste) advice regarding at-home treatments for GI stasis in case you ever have to deal with it again in the future.

Keep in mind that, as Jenny mentioned, it's a medical emergency if a rabbit goes 8-12+ hours without eating, drinking, and/or pooping - the following options should only be used if symptoms/warning signs are spotted BEFORE the 8-12h mark; once it's been longer than that, a vet trip needs to happen *immediately*.

You can buy a syringe at any grocery store. If you have critical care food (comes from vets), you can syringe feed that. If you don't, you can make a pellet slurry - take some pellets and add water or pedialyte; microwave. Let sit for 5-10 mins so the pellets can "fluff", then mix together (breaking up the pellets as much as possible); add more liquid if needed to get it to a good pudding-like consistency for syringe feeding (using a food processor (before adding liquid to the pellets), a blender or a mortar and pestle (again, before adding liquid) will make it easier to break up the pellets). Critical care will work with a syringe as-is but with the DIY slurry, you may find it necessary to cut the tip of the syringe off to make the opening larger.

You can also offer a little bit of canned pumpkin (PLAIN stuff, not the pie filling kind) and/or some fruit or squash flavored baby food... not a whole lot, as these foods are sugary - maybe 2 tsp or so. If he won't eat the pumpkin on his own, you'll need to water it down with water or pedialyte in order to easily syringe feed it. These things could also be mixed into the pellet slurry or critical care to make it tastier.

You should syringe water or pedialite if you're worried he might not be drinking enough and/or if you're feeding pellet slurry/critical care.

When you syringe feed a rabbit food or liquids, you want to aim for the gap between his front incisors and back molars and always squirt the food/liquid in sideways - never straight back - to make sure he won't accidentally inhale it. Remember to give him time to chew/swallow. I find it easier (especially with liquids) to have the bunny wrapped in a towel, as things can get pretty messy.
Here's a great video showing how to syringe feed - [ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8iGZVYVm5Bg[/ame]

You can also offer pain meds to make your bunny more comfortable - metacam/meloxicam if you have it (bunny painkillers); baby aspirin or low-dose aspirin if you don't. This website has dosing info for pain meds - http://www.medirabbit.com/Safe_medication/Analgesics/safe_analgesics.htm

Simethicone (any brand of over the counter baby gas medicine) can also be given. it may or may not help depending on the cause of the GI stasis, but it's *incredibly* safe for rabbits so it definitely can't hurt. You can give 1-2 cc every hour for 3h, then 1 cc every 3-8h as needed if it seems to be helping.

Probiotics are also very helpful for tummy troubles (stuff like benebac/probios) - you can sometimes find them at pet stores or feed stores; failing that you can buy them online. Do NOT give yogurt containing probiotics, as rabbits are lactose intolerant, plus the extra sugars can make stasis worse.

Mind you, the above at-home remedies are NOT a replacement for taking the bunny to a rabbit-savvy vet to figure out the underlying cause of the GI stasis! If your bunny regains (and maintains) his normal appetite within half a day or so and this is his first experience with stasis, you can skip the vet trip but if you continue having to force-feed him, a vet is a must.
~~~~~

After-hours emergencies/finding an e-vet

There's always an e-vet who treats rabbits/exotics available somewhere not too far away if you live in a major city, so it's just a matter of calling around until you find one. Start by calling your regular exotics vet even though they're closed - it's quite common for them to have an outgoing (ie "answering machine") message that provides instructions for what to do/where to call in the event of an after-hours emergency. If that fails, then the fastest route is to call the nearest clinic even if you know for a fact (from their website or something) that they only take cats and dogs - if they don't take exotics, they'll almost certainly be able to refer you to a clinic that does (unless you live in a very rural area where there simply isn't one, in which case skip to the "Rural areas" section below).

Keep in mind that you should always phone ahead before taking your pet to an e-vet even if you've had that animal or species treated by that emergency clinic before, for a couple of reasons:

~ Many e-clinics that treat (or sometimes treat) exotics don't actually keep an exotics vet on duty at all times even in huge cities. They often keep "regular" (ie cat/dog) vets on duty and only have their exotics specialist there part time or only call them in when needed, even though exotics vets also treat cats and dogs and could take the place of a "regular" vet. As for why, I'm guessing it's a lack of exotics vets willing to work the graveyard shift, the fact that an exotics vet gets paid a higher rate because of their additional qualifications or both.

In other words, just because there's one on duty at a certain clinic when you have an emergency doesn't guarantee that the same clinic will have an exotics vet on duty the next time you need one.

In San Antonio, for example, one exotics specialist serves multiple clinics (two, iirc) - they're at one clinic one week and another the next, rotating back and forth. In Houston, the nearest e-vet that treats exotics either doesn't always or doesn't ever have an exotics vet on duty (I've only used them once, so I'm not sure which is the case) - when we took Tabitha (a sugar glider) in, they said their exotics vet was on call and to let them know when we were 10-15 minutes away so they could call in the vet. [As a note, we followed that instruction and we got there before the exotics vet did, which could be an issue in an extreme emergency... unfortunately, it was irrelevant for us as Tabby passed away about two minutes before we arrived. Based on that experience, I recommend telling a clinic who has to call in their exotics vet that you'll be there 5-10 minutes sooner than you actually anticipate if your situation is truly urgent.]

~ Even if you know for a fact that the place you're going to ALWAYS has an exotics vet on duty, you should still call if at all possible to tell them you're on the way and what the situation is, especially if it's extremely urgent. This allows them to prepare for your arrival and can make it easier for them prioritize your pet if their problem is immediately life-threatening.

Rural areas:
Emergency situations can be a lot trickier for exotics owners who live in a very rural area, since in many cases there's only one emergency vet clinic near them (and even that may be a good ways away) and unfortunately, it's fairly common for them to not have (or be able to call in) an exotics vet. The closest exotics e-vet can potentially be an hour or two (or more) away. In other words, getting your bunny to an exotics vet in the event of an after-hours emergency simply isn't always possible.

Ideally, you should plan ahead for the possibility that your pet will need emergency care at some point (the same is true for city-dwellers, by the way - knowing where to call and what order to start calling in can save precious time). If you know an after-hours exotics vet isn't an option, talk to your regular vet and find out what they suggest you do in an emergency. Find out if they're reachable by phone after hours/willing to have a phone consult with a non-exotics e-vet if there's no exotics e-vet in the area.

If your vet isn't reachable after hours (or if you need an emergency vet now and weren't able to plan ahead) and you've determined that there is no emergency exotics vet available within a reasonable distance, that doesn't mean you're out of options.

Start calling emergency vets in major cities (regardless of distance) until you find one with an exotics vet that's currently on duty. Explain that you live too far away to bring your pet to them, that there is NO exotics vet at all available in your area right now and give a brief explanation of the situation, then ask if their exotics specialist would be willing to consult with your local (non-exotics) emergency vet by phone. If you strike out, keep calling - with every major city in the US as an option, you're bound to find one if you're persistent.

It's crucial to specify that you're asking if they'll speak directly with another veterinarian, who would be treating your pet in person. Most vets will not (under any circumstances) give you treatment instructions/medical advice over the phone in an emergency situation to be relayed to your local vet - it's a matter of liability/covering their *sses because there are simply too many variables involved. It's a completely different situation if they're advising the treating veterinarian, though.

Once you find a willing exotics e-vet, start calling local e-clinics. Explain that you know they normally only treat cats and dogs, but you've got a sick/injured rabbit that needs emergency care and you've found an on-duty exotics veterinarian in [whatever city/state they're in] willing to consult with their vet by phone and find out if they're willing to treat your rabbit (the location of the other vet should be specified just to make sure they're willing and able to place a long-distance call).

ANY e-clinic will almost certainly have the equipment and medication necessary to diagnose and treat your rabbit and any vet has the training to do non-species-specific procedures, so it's generally possible for an exotics-trained vet to diagnose/evaluate your pet over the phone with the help of the treating veterinarian and then explain their recommended course of treatment.
 
The animal hospital here is keeping him for the day! They think it's some kind of bacterial infection he got from the girl rabbit! His fever is 105.9! They gave him 2 shots I think he is going to pull thru, I should probably disinfect my house everywhere she has been, do yu have any idea what I could use that is safe?
 
I'm so glad it sounds like he'll be ok!

I try to avoid "antibacterial" cleaning products, as people in general grossly overuse antibacterial products these days, leading to resistant strains... also, some can leave chemical residue behind which may not be safe for pets. Plain old soap-type products (aided by thorough scrubbing) kill the vast majority of bacteria and viruses (which is why I think antibacterial hand soap is ridiculous - all hand soap will kill bacteria if you use proper hand-washing techniques)... though even soap can leave residue.

My go-to product for cleaning, disinfecting and/or neutralizing odors in pet areas is good ol' tried-and-true white vinegar. Vinegar is effective, dirt cheap, completely non-toxic/pet safe and doesn't leave a residue. For general cleaning and sanitation, most people use a 50/50 mix of white vinegar and water... however, in your case, I'd go for straight vinegar. "Regular" white vinegar is 5% acid; it's perfectly viable to use if it's what you already have or all you can find... but since the acid in it is what kills viruses and bacteria, it wouldn't hurt to use the 9% version if you happen to find it (I haven't seen it at Walmart, but my local grocery store carries it).

By the way, since he's presumably getting antibiotics, I would ask them if they're giving (or can give) probiotics as well - they're always a good idea with broad-spectrum antibiotics, since those can kill "good" bacteria as well and potentially cause some nasty side-effects.
 
Thank yu for the tips! The only problem is I don't keep him in a cage he runs free around the living room. I have a litter box in every corner. Which I know I should get new ones since the girl bunny has used them. She's been on the carpet too and they both liked to hang out behind the couch I'm just not sure what I could do to disinfect the carpet/couch. If any of the infection would have got exposed to it.
 
Wow, that is a really high temperature! I'm glad you got him in ok. Hopefully they will be able to figure out what is going on.

For disinfecting, it is going to depend on what he is infected with. You'll want to call the vet and ask if they have discovered the cause of his illness yet. Ask if they tested a fecal sample. If they haven't, I would suggest asking them to. You want them to determine whether he has a protozoal parasite called coccidiosis, or if he has a bacterial infection. The vet also needs to know this as the medicine used to treat each is different. If your bun has coccidiosis, you will need to disinfect(and rinse) everything with a 10% ammonia solution. Quaternary ammonia would be the best kind to use if you can find some. If he just has a bacterial infection, a 10% bleach solution will work fine. Just make sure to rinse everything off too, as you don't want your bun exposed to the chemicals.

These links have good explanations about bacterial enteritis and coccidiosis, but be WARNED-there are medical pictures which could be a bit disturbing.
http://www.medirabbit.com/EN/GI_diseases/Generalities/Enteritis_en.htm
http://www.medirabbit.com/EN/GI_diseases/Protozoal_diseases/Cocc_en.htm

ETA: I'm not sure about disinfecting soft products. You could ask the vet office about how to disinfect. You may just have to disinfect the hard surfaces and litter box as much as possible and hope that will be good enough.
 
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At the very least, vacuuming the carpets never hurts... I don't actually know if it would disinfect effectively, but vinegar *might* still work if applied lightly to carpeting/upholstery with a spray bottle that has a "mist" setting. I agree with Jenny that asking the vet how to go about disinfecting would be best.
 
It sounds like the girl that passed away may have had mucoid enteritis...which is usually fatal because it happens so fast that it's hard to treat in time. Good thing you got your other one to the vet because it can be passed around. That's why it's so important to quarantine new rabbits. I agree that you need to let whoever you got the girl from know what happened.
 

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