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ruka

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Kaneohe, Hawaii, USA
About two months ago, I adopted two bunny sistersfrom the humane society. They are both four months old. I knew it wouldtake some time for them to get used to their new home but it hasbeennearly two months and they are still afraid of humans. Ithought they would be fine with people around since the humane societyis like a petting zoo,but they're not. I don't like scaringthem when I catch them to hold them or to clean their cage. Thecaretaker at the humane society doesn't know their history. I tried tointrigue them with treats but that doesn't work.In twomonths, they'll bespayed but will that help theirbehavior?I'm not sure what to do, but I don't want to giveup. Any tip will help.
 
No dont give up....my one rabbit was like that,that we got from the humane society. She was very very scared. We stilldont know why, maybe she was mistreated from the previous family. Dontgive up tho thats not what they need. They have just been in a fewdifferent homes and is scared. Fixing them might change their behaviora little bit. My other baby Gizmo was scared and never came up to me atall and he wasnt even from a humane society. After being fixed he's allover me. but even if thats not how they are just love them. i cant evenimagine how they feel being in like 3 different homes just in theirshort life. they might be thinking you are probably going to take themto a NEW home too. :( and if thats them in the picture, they aregorgeous!! whats their names?
 
Definately don't give up! Some bunniesare just very shy, even if they haven't beenmistreated. Bunnies who might have ahistory of abuse need even more patience...

It's normal for them to not want to be picked up/held... they are,after all, prey animals, so many bunnies never get over the fear of notbeing "masters of their own destinies", so tospeak. Try not to pick them up, if at allpossible. If you haven't already, rabbit-proof aroom or set up a puppy exercise pen so that your buns can run aroundwhile you clean their cage. If the door to their cage isground-level, just open it & wait for them to comeout. If it's a top-opening cage, you'll need to set up somesort of "stair" system (like a few boxes of different sizes) that willallow them to get in & out of the cage w/o being picked up (andyou might want to get a new cage w/ a ground-opening door:| ). To get them back into their cage, put treatsin the cage, tell them it's "bedtime" (or "time for treats", orwhatever you want to call it :D ), & gently herd them back totheir cage. It might take quite awhile the first couple oftimes you try it, but buns are smart, & they should figure outpretty quickly that going back to their cage when they're told meansthat they don't get picked up *and* they get treats. Whatcould be better? :D

Beyond that, the best thing you can do to bond w/ your rabbits is tojust hang out w/ them, w/o trying to pick them up or pet them oranything at all. Let them out of their cage, & sit(or, even better, lay) on the floor, reading, watching TV, or justobserving the buns. It may take awhile, but eventuallycuriosity will get the best of even the most timid of buns, &they'll come check you out. At this point, it pays to havetreats handy. ;D

Most of all, just be patient. I've heard of rabbits takingover a year to really get used to being around Their People.Even if your buns never become particularly cuddly, they still shouldwarm up to you if you give them enough time. :}
 
Ruka,

Don't give up! As Bunnylover and Alice said, it takes timeand patience. I've had my Holland Lop for three months andshe's just now allowing us to pet her. I got her spayed lastmonth and I think it helped some. We stopped picking her upand would just lay in the floor and wait for her to come tous. Let them come up to you and sniff without petting themfor a while and see what happens.

Laura


 
Thanks for all the tips. Unfortunately, theydon't have a door for their cage. I converted this big plastic displaybox intoa cage. It's six feet long, over two feet high andover two feet wide. They have a lot of space! The cage doesn't have acover (they can't jump out of it) so there's a lot of ventilation,especially because the windows in that room are always open. I'll tryto let them run around in a designated area and see how that goes.Let's see if I can catchthem! They are very fast creatures.
 
Ruka, even if rabbits have a big cage, it isstill important for them to have a larger area to run in. Just makesure you bunny-proof completely so they don't get into things theyshouldn't.

I think it would be a good idea to look into making or buying adifferent cage. From what I've heard, solid/glass/plexi sided cages arenot ideal... not just because of the ventilation issue but because theyalso tend to isolate your bunnies from the outside world. Getting a newcage would also make it possible to let your bunnies out withoutpicking them up, and if you don't have to pick them up when they don'tlike it, it will probably help with the trust issues.

I would recommend either converting a large wire dog crate by addingsome levels (and rabbits just LOVE levels) or building a nic (cube)cage. Cube cages are very popular among many rabbit owners because youcan custom build them to suit any space and any size rabbit. They'recheap and easy to build and will give your rabbits plenty of space.

Here is a picture of the cage I built for my rabbit. Mine is actuallysmall compared to what some people build for their rabbits. I built itvertically with more levels because I don't have a lot of space in myapartment. I think it cost me around $60.
1570_1024.ts1110612918166.jpg


If you decide that a cube cage is the way to go, I'm sure there aremany people here who can give you advice and tips on building it andwhere to get supplies.

Other than that,
it takes some rabbits a long time to trust their people. I thinksometimes it takes pairs even longer since they are able to rely ontheir bunny friend for companionship and less on their humancompanions. Picking them up or chasing them are things that mostrabbits don't like and are often frightened by. Doing this will easilymake them scared of you.
I also adopted my rabbit from the humane society. He spent fourneglected years in a hutch with another unneutered male before I gothim. Needless to say, he has more than a few issues, and it has taken along time to gain his trust. Don't give up on your rabbits. It will beworth it in the end.
 
HUN

I HAVE TO TELL YOU DONT GIVE UP

MY RABBIT LUCY WAS SPAYED ABOUT 6 WEEEKS AGO

WE THOUGHT IT WILL EITHER MAKE HER ALOT BETTER ORWORSE WELL I HAVE TO SAY TOUNSE BETTER // SHE WILLCOME FOR ATTENTION NOW BUT SHE WOULD'NT BEFORE HER OP

JUST TO TELL YOU I NO ITS THE BUNNYS GOING THREW THIS ORDEAL BUT WE HUMANS NEED SUPPORT AS WELL

IF YOU NEEED ANY HELP

IM ALWAYS HEAR AND THE FORUM IS AS WELL

VARNA XXXX
 
How about tipping the case on its side andcovering the front with wire grating or something similar?They're notgoing to be happy anytime soon if you're alwayshaving to chase them to get them in and out.

Some bunnies are afraid of people, some are afraid of beingconstrained/held, and some are afraid of heights (as inheightstaller than the rabbit). Your bunnies aregetting hit with the works.

My bunny wouldn't go near the woman who had her before I did.She'd have to chase her,pick her up and put her back in hercage. When I got her, I just opened the cage door in a smallarea (my room), and let her check everything out. I didn'tmake any moves towards her at all. I'd lie on the floor andwatch her and talk to her. When she came close enough, I'dhold out a treat.After two days, she jumped on mylap and started giving me bunny kisses galore.

SAS
 
That's a good idea, Nell. I didn't think aboutmaking a cage out of the cube shelves. Do a lot of people make theircages out of that? How sturdy is it? I'm guessing my buns are about 4pounds each. Also, what do you use for the flooring? For those of youwho have this type of cage or the converted dog crate, is there any wayof you posting pictures of it to give me an idea? Thanks guys.
 
The cube cages are great because you can makethem fit whatever space you have. They're very easy to build. They comewith plastic connectors and you can reinforce them with cable ties froma hardware store. We used plastic sheeting meant for offices withrolling chairs as the floor. If your bunnies aren't litter box trainedyou'll need to find another option, but the plastic sheeting workedgreat for us. You can make multiple levels, or just one big level.They're easy to clean. And inexpensive! You can buy the cubes at Target.

We have changed our setup recently. Here's our first cage design... Lots of floor space and one square upper level.
bunnycondo.jpg


We moved them to another room recently and changed the design. Now theyhave a larger upper floor. They both can jump up quite easily.
cage2.jpg


Another angle of the L-shaped setup.
cage.jpg


They enjoy having lots of room and another level to jump up on. Thelarge tub is their litter box. With the big box we don't have accidentsand it's also cleaner since Judy is a digger. The high sides preventflying litter.

Though the photos don't show it, the cage is easy to keep clean. I canreach in from the top or easily life the whole unite off of theflooring to wipe it down and vacuum underneath. It's a good time. :)
 
wow, maybe I should start making cages and selling them on ebay! lol

When you put the shelves in, the cube cages become very sturdy. Dowelsare used under the shelves for extra support. I put mine together usingonly the cable ties and none of the connectors, but I bet if you usethe connectors + cable ties it would make it extra sturdy. For thefloor I use a sturdy piece of plexi covered in peel-and-stick floortiles, and for the levels I used carpet pieces secured with more cableties. I have plexi around the sides at the base to keep the mess in.There are tons of ways of doing it, though, so you may have toexperiment a bit to find what best works for you.
 
Here's a pic of Meat's "Winchester Mystery Cage":
wmc1.jpg


It'svery sturdy (I'm not sure how much Meat weighs, but it'smore than 4 lbs :} ).I used a ton ofzip-ties instead of the connectors that come w/ the cubes,&stuck 1X2's through to stabilize the shelves& roof. I don't have a bottom floor on the cagebecause Meat's litter trained & we have hardwoodfloors. The flooring on the shelves is cardboard.:D I posted more pix & details here:http://www.livejournal.com/community/bunnyowners/1427678.html

There are also a bunch of NIC-cage links here:http://homepage.mac.com/mattocks/morfz/nic.html


 
I'm going to Costco tomorrow to buy a coupleboxes of NICs and to the Home Depot to buy the zip ties. Do you know ifthey sell coroplast? Is coroplast safe for bunnies to chew on becauseDetta and Char like to chew. I'm planning to make the cage 3-4 panelslong, two panels deep and high. That should be big enough for the kids.;)
 
For those dimensions you probably don't even needto buy two boxes. You'll also want to consider how you want to rig yourdoor. We just use one square of the cube stuff and attach it on oneside with cable ties only and then the other side we rigged a latchwith a little clip and key chain ring. Something floor level that canbe opened and left open, or close securely is very hand when moving thekids from free run to closed up. With an open door at floor level theycan get to their litter box and waterbottle without help from you.
 
The search for cage supplies continues...

I went to Costco, Home Depot, Office Depot, and a local hardware store.All I came home with was a bag of cable zip ties. Nobody has the cubeshelves!!!!! I am so disappointed. I was really hoping to startbuilding today. I'm going to call some other places to see if they haveit so I don't have to drive around and waste gas. I also couldn't findthe coroplast. Hawaii has such limited resources. We don't have Target,but we do have Walmart and Kmart. I'll see if they have it.
 
Hi Ruka,

Here are some more ideas or tips for your cage.
I used the wire shelves from a refrigerator to make a playpen.
On the playpen, here are some of the clips I use to bind the sections:



You could see the cable ties, large stationary paper clips,and the plastic grips, all from the dollar store. Good luckwith your cage.

Rainbows! :)


 
The cubes are made by many different companies,so be sure not to limit your search to just NIC cubes. I have seen themat both kmart and walmart (ironicly walmart had the highest prices) andI have seen them in different sections of different stores. Sometimesthey're in home office, other times shelving and storage, schoolsupplies, etc.
Last summer I got really lucky and found a big box of 40+ grids at a rummage sale for $3 :)

There are other things you can use for flooring besides cloroplast ifyou can't find it. I opted to use something different because my bunnyis a chewer and I was afraid that he'd try to eat it. You could useplywood or linoleum (non-slip kind) and I've seen some people even usecarpet for the bottom floor.

I had trouble finding a way of securing the door at first. I triedtwisty ties as a temporary solution until my bun pulled them off, thengot out of the cage and tore up the apartment in the middle of thenight! :shock: Now I use the same kind of clips that are often used onthe end of pet leashes (I'm not sure what the actual name for them is)and I haven't had a break-out since!

 

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