That should make a significant difference!
In the meantime, you might try putting something absorbent down on the floor of her enclosure to prevent her from standing in her urine. Newspaper (black and white pages ONLY - no color, in case she chews/shreds/eats it) or fleece would work (needs to be fleece, not towels or something - fleece has *much* shorter fibers than any other fabric and is the only fabric that doesn't have the potential to cause an obstruction if they chew on it and ingest little bits).
One thing that might get some of the urine out would be to take a large, shallow dish (like a baking pan) and put a 50/50 solution of white vinegar and water in it (no more than 1/4-1/2 inch deep depending on how short your bunny's legs are - it needs to be shallow enough to soak the bottoms of her feet without getting her chest or stomach wet); use hot tap water so that, once mixed with the room-temperature vinegar, the water will be decently warm without being too hot. Place the bunny in the pan of water and hold her in it for a few minutes (or as long as she'll let you if she won't tolerate it for that long). You might also wet a washcloth with the warm vinegar water and rub at her paws with it for a bit. Use warm (but not hot) water to rinse her paws off (either by holding each paw under a running faucet for a few seconds or by using the pan tactic again with straight water and using your fingers to help rinse the vinegar out). Towel-dry each paw. Vinegar is totally pet-safe and even if you don't get all of it out, it won't hurt her if she consumes a small amount while licking her feet.
Unfortunately, that requires being able to hold and handle her. Honestly, though, I can't think of anything you can do to clean her feet if you can't pick her up. You really *need* to be able to pick up and handle your bunny in the long run - they need nail trims every 4-6 weeks, you need to be able to do occasional "booty checks" to make sure she doesn't have a soiled bottom side that indicates a health issue and after she's spayed, you'll need to be able to gently lift her up to check the incision site during the 7-10 day healing period, etc. Some rabbits are *much* more tolerant of that stuff than others, but with the right tactics, pretty much any rabbit can be conditioned to endure occasional handling.
If you can provide a little background info like her age, breed (or general size) and how long you've had her, we'd be happy to give you tips and advice about how to get her used to being handled, how to pick her up as securely as possible (to where she won't hurt herself struggling or be able to bite/kick you), etc.
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On a side note, if you've never been through a bunny spay before, you might skim through these two threads that I made regarding my girls' spays:
the big day!
post-op handling question
they discuss some of the pre-spay preparation that should be done and address some of the common potential issues post-spay (licking or chewing at the incision site, how to avoid GI stasis if the bunn(s) won't eat on their own, etc.), which would help you get a feel for what to expect and what you should have on hand in case there are any problems.
Also, you definitely want to watch this youtube video on how to syringe-feed a rabbit - even if you don't end up having to force-feed, it also shows how to medicate a rabbit (which you'll absolutely have to do). Which reminds me - do NOT leave the vet after the spay without making sure they give you metacam! It's recommended but not always necessary after a neuter; however, spays are *much* more invasive. All vets should administer a pain shot that will last for 24h after the surgery but females need to be medicated for pain longer than that (usually 3-4 more days). Additionally, metacam is an excellent thing to have in your first aid kit and you'll almost certainly be given a good bit more than you need (I think I had half of it left when they stopped needing it). I ended up using it again a few months later when one of my bunnies showed some early warning signs of what could've become GI stasis.
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8iGZVYVm5Bg[/ame]
I also recommend checking out
this post (and possibly browsing the whole thread) about good items to have in a first aid kit. I used probably half the items in my kit when my bunnies were spayed and was very thankful I had it!
That post has a link to where I originally bought a lot of stuff... in retrospect, though, I went for lazy, one-stop shopping and used that site because it was the only online source I could find for critical care. I've since started an online business selling things for sugar gliders (there's a huge online niche market for glider goodies and toy parts); a lot of the first aid stuff I sell is also good for bunnies and is way cheaper than leithpetwerks. I'll provide links/info regarding the stuff I sell but before I do, I'd like to offer you a couple shopping tips
.
Before you go buying items for a first aid kit that are commonly used with surgeries, phone the vet that will be doing the spay. Some vets will itemize little "incidentals" like vet wrap, syringes, probiotics, etc. and price-gouge their a**es off in the process (making those in immediate need wish they'd shopped around ahead of time)... but other vets are the complete opposite and, if you ask, might toss in a larger (feeding) syringe, a couple feet of vetwrap, a dose or two of probiotics, etc. free of charge when you're paying for the surgery. I doubt they'd give you critical care for free but assuming they carry it, there's a decent chance that they'll sell it for less than what it would cost to order it online and have it shipped.
Make sure to phrase your question along the lines of "When I bring my bunny in to get spayed, would it be possible to buy [items] from you in case she needs them after the surgery?" - it's the fact that you're already coughing up for an expensive surgery that could potentially incline a vet to toss in some freebies. You may also have better luck if you can manage to talk to the vet directly - often times, you'll get a price quote if you ask whoever answers the phones but if you were to ask the actual vet, they'd offer to give you something free.
In other words, you can find everything you need online and if you shop around, you can get it pretty cheaply... but free beats cheap any day so it NEVER hurts to ask! If you talk to the vet in advance, you might be able to cross some things off of your shopping list and save money.
Also, when I was shopping for critical care, I was under the impression that retail businesses didn't carry it - you had to get it online or at a vet. Pet stores (at least the major chains) definitely don't sell it. Months later, I randomly stumbled across herbivore critical care while browsing the aisles at a local feed store (good price, too)! I've been in at least half a dozen feed stores and that one's the only place I ever saw it, but it's definitely worth looking around the next time you hit up a feed store for hay and/or pine pellets. Some feed stores also sell vetwrap and/or probiotics. Prices can be great or awful depending on the feed store - if you've looked at the options online first, you'll know whether you're getting a good deal there.
As for what I sell:
special bunny page
first aid page
The bunny page only lists a package deal of the items I sell that are as viable for bunnies as they are for gliders (a 15g tube of Bene-bac Plus probiotics, two 1cc syringes (for meds), two 6cc syringes (for feeding), a roll of 4'' vet wrap (plain or padded) and a 2 oz bottle of Vetericyn (regular or hydrogel formula)). If you want to pick and choose individual items, you'll want to go to the first aid page.
Notes:
~ the "feeding tips" I sell are only for gliders (because of their tiny mouths) - they're unnecessary for medicating bunnies and too small for feeding them.
~ Vetericyn is the most popular product for treating cuts, scrapes, etc. (at least in the glider community) - it's similar to Bactine and such (except it doesn't sting) but safe for animals, even if they lick the application site.
While it could potentially be handy for a bunny in general, I don't see any need for it after a spay unless the bunny opens the incision a bit... and it seems like most vets use internal stitches and a special sort of "glue" to seal the wound, so the odds of needing it are pretty low. It's not something I specifically suggest for post-spay "just in case" supplies.
~ the BeneBac dosing for animals "up to 10 lbs" is 1g (with two doses given 3 days apart) - the 15g syringe is much cheaper per dose than the 4-pack of 1g tubes but if you're looking to keep your total cost down, the 4-pack would be enough to dose her pre and post spay with two doses left over in case you need it later. (I can't recommend probiotics enough for animals when they undergo surgery, get put on antibiotics or get rehomed or are otherwise stressed!)
~ I don't really recommend the "Reusable hot/cold compress" for bunnies except under supervision. Sick/recovering bunnies are pretty unlikely to chew and the product very specifically says it's non-toxic... but still, better safe than sorry. A large sock stuffed with uncooked rice and heated in the microwave is a good DIY heating pad alternative for bunnies.
~ the e-collar I sell is for gliders. The material I make them from comes in 12'' square sheets, so I suppose I could easily adapt the design to make one for a rabbit... however, the "cone of shame" is stressful for any animal and with rabbits, you'd have to hand-feed them their cecal poop because they wouldn't be able to reach down to eat it as it's produced. Plus, while vets don't carry and often don't know how to make an e-collar for a glider, they'll almost certainly be able to give you a proper one for a bunny if it's really needed. Besides, IMO, vet wrap gets the job done just as well and is infinitely less stressful for both bunny and owner.
~ the "custom first aid kit" (basically, a bundle discount if buying 4+ items from the first aid page) is for glider and bunny owners alike
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If you have any questions about spaying or run into any issues after the surgery, please don't hesitate to come back to RO for help! Many of us have been through spaying before and will gladly offer any insight we can.
