My lop rabbit Amadeus just had his teeth shortened and was given antibiotics. The doctor (I looked for a vet who specializes in exotic pets by the way)told me to give him nothing but alfalfa or timothy hay for a while, and to avoid pellets. I've been giving him two big handfuls of hay daily. But here's the problem: He's pretty skinny. I can feel his bones. He has a lot of energy and eats well, but I'm very worried. Where am I going wrong?
Rabbit diet. Please help!
- Thread starter Jemona
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Pipp
Well-Known Member
Hi Jemona, can you put your location in your profile? It's easier to know what rescources are available in your area.
How old is your bunny? Why did the vet prescribe antibiotics?
Was he having 'poopy butt' problems, anything like that?
Hay alone won't put weight on a bunny, you need a least a few pellets, or a some veggies.
What was he eating before the surgery?
sas :?
How old is your bunny? Why did the vet prescribe antibiotics?
Was he having 'poopy butt' problems, anything like that?
Hay alone won't put weight on a bunny, you need a least a few pellets, or a some veggies.
What was he eating before the surgery?
sas :?
PixieStixxxx
Well-Known Member
Pipp's right, hay alone isn't going to maintain weight. =[
Bramblerose
Well-Known Member
Well just how long did he tell you to feed just hay? I mean it won't kill your bunny but its not going to be enough in the long run, I'm assuming thats he's doing it because of the antibiotics, and is trying to avoid gut stasis. I'd recontact my vet and ask for a written diet with definite timelines, see if you can give him some sort of supplement like Nutrical. I don't want to say anything thats going to contradict your vet, but I myself would want a clear idea of how long the bun is supposed to exist on hay alone.
I free-feed my rabbits, feeders empty I fill it, particularly in the winter, they need the extra calories to keep warm. They always have hay, sometimes I topdress their feed with a little sweet feed and Animax, which is basicly the same as Calf Manna. They get some bread products as a treat, and live green forage in the growing months, and stuff from the garden. I will say, the minute that I suspect gut stasis I pull pellets and up the greens/hay.
Talk to your vet, he may have a good reason for the hay diet.
Calf Manna is a supplement sort of feed, 'Manna Pro' I think the name of their rabbit food. Calf manna can be fed to all sorts of livestock, but you have to be careful with rabbits, its very rich for them. Its also supposed to really push milk production up, but you have to stop feeding it when the babies are weaning because there have been instances of problems with mastitis that may have been linked to the use of Calf Manna. I haven't had that problem but have heard of it, figured I should put it out there. Often you can buy small bags of CM at rabbit shows from vendors, otherwise your stuck with a huge bag of it, I bought mine nearly 3 years ago and still have quite a bit left, sealed up in jugs. I only give each rabbit a few pellets at a time. Think of it as a vitamin, not a feed.
I free-feed my rabbits, feeders empty I fill it, particularly in the winter, they need the extra calories to keep warm. They always have hay, sometimes I topdress their feed with a little sweet feed and Animax, which is basicly the same as Calf Manna. They get some bread products as a treat, and live green forage in the growing months, and stuff from the garden. I will say, the minute that I suspect gut stasis I pull pellets and up the greens/hay.
Talk to your vet, he may have a good reason for the hay diet.
Calf Manna is a supplement sort of feed, 'Manna Pro' I think the name of their rabbit food. Calf manna can be fed to all sorts of livestock, but you have to be careful with rabbits, its very rich for them. Its also supposed to really push milk production up, but you have to stop feeding it when the babies are weaning because there have been instances of problems with mastitis that may have been linked to the use of Calf Manna. I haven't had that problem but have heard of it, figured I should put it out there. Often you can buy small bags of CM at rabbit shows from vendors, otherwise your stuck with a huge bag of it, I bought mine nearly 3 years ago and still have quite a bit left, sealed up in jugs. I only give each rabbit a few pellets at a time. Think of it as a vitamin, not a feed.
Bo B Bunny
Well-Known Member
missyscove
Christina - Moderator
My buns each get 1/4 cup of pellets a day. They're both about 4 or 4.5 lbs. They also get unlimited hay and about 2 cups of veggies.
Bramblerose
Well-Known Member
I feed a bit of bread because many Flemish breeders do, my old and dear Flemish buddy always fed his bagels, and boy did they like that, he said that the extra carbs were good for them. But I'm trying to keep weight on active outdoor buns, possibly very different than feeding a house rabbit, although my indoor rabbits were always free fed and never became grossly overweight, but I didn't feed them fruit and evil craisins, saved those for my muffins. Regardless, I was only saying what I personally do, YMMV.
Jemona is he an outdoor or indoor bun? I will admit, I would free-feed a rabbit who was very skinny until he recovered some weight-unless your vet states other wise. There has to be a good reason why your vet only wants you to feed hay, I really would contact him for clarification.
Jemona is he an outdoor or indoor bun? I will admit, I would free-feed a rabbit who was very skinny until he recovered some weight-unless your vet states other wise. There has to be a good reason why your vet only wants you to feed hay, I really would contact him for clarification.
NZminilops
Well-Known Member
I feed my small breed rabbits, not sure about how many pounds they are, 1/4 cup of pellets a day and unlimited hay.
ra7751
Well-Known Member
Hi Jemona,
I think everyone knows I would have to comment on this one. First let me say that hay should be the vast majority of a rabbit's diet. Pellets are generally overfed and even the "guidelines" of the experts suggest far too much pellets for house rabbits. Pellets were originally intended for meat rabbits (sorry for the term but necessary for the explanation) and were meant to pack the weight on. All of these supplements, treats and other stuff are not at all healthy for a rabbit. And adding weight quickly comes at a high price....especially to that very delicate liver. In our rescue, we offer pellets only to maintain proper weight and conditioning. Our nearly 30 pound Flemish gets less than 1/4 cup per day.....some of our NDs get about a dozen or so pellets per day.....we have rabbits that get no pellets at all....and our older or sick buns get as much as they need to help keep their weight up. Unlimited grass hay is essential to a happy digestive system. A rabbit is designed for low protein (meaning few pellets) and high fiber (meaning unlimited grass hay). Our rabbits (over 50 of them) do not go without hay at any time. If their hay rack is empty....we fill 'er up.
Having said all of that....I would highly suggest you follow your vet's advice. Sounds like a very experienced rabbit vet. The teeth are the reason your doctor is suggesting only hay. Hay is the primary method of keeping down the teeth. Many people think it's how hard something is that wears down the teeth....not true at all. It is how chewy it is. The teeth are worn by tooth to tooth contact. Look at how a rabbit chews...it's not in a crushing motion like we do..up and down....it's a side to side motion. The molars are curved and the sideways motion actually folds the hay up into something that looks like an accordian. A diet with too many pellets does not properly wear down the molars....when the pellets are chewed, they just crush into a powder. That does not help wear the teeth down. But that chewy hay does....and the tougher the stems of the hay, the better wear action. I suspect your bun had molar spurs (and this same information basically applies to incisor malocclusion also). A dental burr can trim them down but it doesn't match the wear pattern so the occlusion (the actual meeting point of the upper and lower teeth) don't match until they start being controlled by eating hay. If there has been no damage to the position of the teeth due to the dental concern, by eating only hay the teeth will wear in a natural and correct pattern and your bun won't suffer from additional dental problems. The antibiotics were most likely due to molar spur intrusions into the roof of the mouth and/or the cheeks.
How do we add weight to an underweight bunny? Same as people....add calories. You have to ramp this up slowly to avoid GI upset. We do it with alfalfa hay. Instead of two handfuls....he should have unlimited amounts of hay....and I would mix several different types of hay but primarily alfalfa....and make sure it is of the highest quality....not the cheap junk in petstores. A couple of good options with greens are kale and dandelion greens (in moderation of course). Canned pumpkin is an excellent source of nutrition and is high in fiber. Ask your vet about using a probiotic to help support the bacterial growth in the digestive system.I use a lot of Bene-Bac as it contains a very beneficial culture of Lactobacillis Casei. An injection of B Comp from your vet can stimulate the appetite too. And if all else fail, some "Fat in a Tube"...aka known as Nutrical can be used to up the calories.Ask your vet about possible intestinal parasites. And you want to add weight slowly...not all at once. You said he is full of energy and eats well. I think you would be doing Amadeus a huge favor by following your vet's instructions.
Randy
I think everyone knows I would have to comment on this one. First let me say that hay should be the vast majority of a rabbit's diet. Pellets are generally overfed and even the "guidelines" of the experts suggest far too much pellets for house rabbits. Pellets were originally intended for meat rabbits (sorry for the term but necessary for the explanation) and were meant to pack the weight on. All of these supplements, treats and other stuff are not at all healthy for a rabbit. And adding weight quickly comes at a high price....especially to that very delicate liver. In our rescue, we offer pellets only to maintain proper weight and conditioning. Our nearly 30 pound Flemish gets less than 1/4 cup per day.....some of our NDs get about a dozen or so pellets per day.....we have rabbits that get no pellets at all....and our older or sick buns get as much as they need to help keep their weight up. Unlimited grass hay is essential to a happy digestive system. A rabbit is designed for low protein (meaning few pellets) and high fiber (meaning unlimited grass hay). Our rabbits (over 50 of them) do not go without hay at any time. If their hay rack is empty....we fill 'er up.
Having said all of that....I would highly suggest you follow your vet's advice. Sounds like a very experienced rabbit vet. The teeth are the reason your doctor is suggesting only hay. Hay is the primary method of keeping down the teeth. Many people think it's how hard something is that wears down the teeth....not true at all. It is how chewy it is. The teeth are worn by tooth to tooth contact. Look at how a rabbit chews...it's not in a crushing motion like we do..up and down....it's a side to side motion. The molars are curved and the sideways motion actually folds the hay up into something that looks like an accordian. A diet with too many pellets does not properly wear down the molars....when the pellets are chewed, they just crush into a powder. That does not help wear the teeth down. But that chewy hay does....and the tougher the stems of the hay, the better wear action. I suspect your bun had molar spurs (and this same information basically applies to incisor malocclusion also). A dental burr can trim them down but it doesn't match the wear pattern so the occlusion (the actual meeting point of the upper and lower teeth) don't match until they start being controlled by eating hay. If there has been no damage to the position of the teeth due to the dental concern, by eating only hay the teeth will wear in a natural and correct pattern and your bun won't suffer from additional dental problems. The antibiotics were most likely due to molar spur intrusions into the roof of the mouth and/or the cheeks.
How do we add weight to an underweight bunny? Same as people....add calories. You have to ramp this up slowly to avoid GI upset. We do it with alfalfa hay. Instead of two handfuls....he should have unlimited amounts of hay....and I would mix several different types of hay but primarily alfalfa....and make sure it is of the highest quality....not the cheap junk in petstores. A couple of good options with greens are kale and dandelion greens (in moderation of course). Canned pumpkin is an excellent source of nutrition and is high in fiber. Ask your vet about using a probiotic to help support the bacterial growth in the digestive system.I use a lot of Bene-Bac as it contains a very beneficial culture of Lactobacillis Casei. An injection of B Comp from your vet can stimulate the appetite too. And if all else fail, some "Fat in a Tube"...aka known as Nutrical can be used to up the calories.Ask your vet about possible intestinal parasites. And you want to add weight slowly...not all at once. You said he is full of energy and eats well. I think you would be doing Amadeus a huge favor by following your vet's instructions.
Randy
Bo B Bunny
Well-Known Member
Yep, Bramble, I just wanted to clarify that it's a bit on what you personally want to do with some things but suggestions are not to feed too many sweets, blah blah blah...... LOL! I love to feed mine a treat so I am bad about that myself and have to keep myself grounded with it. :? (gotta be careful to say what's recommended by the vet/feed company etc. but we all vary some don't ya think?)
I can definitely see flemish needing more carbs and such. I wondered if it wasn't something breed particular or larger breeds..... do you feed the minis the bread? curious is all.
and generally speaking........
I took bo down to 1/8 cup twice a day (1/4 cup over the entire day) and he's actually gotten a bit too thin lately so we bumped up just a few pellets, give him a black oil sunflower seed every day (he found about 6 today tho......) and if that doesn't do it, I'll give him a pinch of pellets in the middle of the day.
He has a slower metabolism than Clover...... she could eat all day long and not gain an ounce. She has a higher metabolism.
PS - I love Randy - So much detail and good ideas! I never even thought about giving Clover some alfalfa pellets or hay to give her a bit more weight! She'd love more hay and alfalfa hay YUMMY!
I can definitely see flemish needing more carbs and such. I wondered if it wasn't something breed particular or larger breeds..... do you feed the minis the bread? curious is all.
and generally speaking........
I took bo down to 1/8 cup twice a day (1/4 cup over the entire day) and he's actually gotten a bit too thin lately so we bumped up just a few pellets, give him a black oil sunflower seed every day (he found about 6 today tho......) and if that doesn't do it, I'll give him a pinch of pellets in the middle of the day.
He has a slower metabolism than Clover...... she could eat all day long and not gain an ounce. She has a higher metabolism.
PS - I love Randy - So much detail and good ideas! I never even thought about giving Clover some alfalfa pellets or hay to give her a bit more weight! She'd love more hay and alfalfa hay YUMMY!
TinysMom
Well-Known Member
Here are some links from our own forum:
Feeding Your Rabbit:
http://www.rabbitsonline.net/view_topic.php?id=12046&forum_id=17
Pellets:
http://rabbitsonline.net/view_topic.php?id=12160&forum_id=17
Hope they help!
Sorry I'm not good w/ hyperlinks..
Peg
Feeding Your Rabbit:
http://www.rabbitsonline.net/view_topic.php?id=12046&forum_id=17
Pellets:
http://rabbitsonline.net/view_topic.php?id=12160&forum_id=17
Hope they help!
Sorry I'm not good w/ hyperlinks..
Peg
