My clown loach

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Sweetie

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Hi there! My biggest clown loach is sick and I am worried about her. She has a white spot on her head and no where else. Her fins look like another fish has been fighting her. I have a 55 gallon tank that she is in with other tankmates, two plecostamuses, three goldfish and two other clown loaches. They all get along with each other.

The clown loach that is sick is hanging at the top of the tank and swimming slowly all through the tank. Her dorsal fin is down like she doesn't feel well. That is how I know that they don't feel well is when they have their dorsal fin down.

I dosed the tank with anti-fungus last night, and she does seem to be doing a little better today.

What could this be that is making my clown loach ill?

Please help!
 
White spots sound like ick, or a fungal infection. I don't know much about fish but sometimes I've heard it helps to bring up the temperature some for sick fish... Wish I could be of more help!
 
If you have a good fish/aquarium place, you might give them a call and see what they think. Does it look like someone has been chewing/fighting with the Loach? I had to get rid of my Plecostemi for that same reason--once they got big enough they started putting the other fish on the menu.
 
All the fish in the 55 gallon fishtank have been together for a good while. The plecostamuses and clown loaches have been together since they were little. My clown loaches are 7, 5 1/2, and 4 inches. My plecostamuses are about 8 inches. They are not full grown yet.

I could talk to Petsmart or even Petco about it. But I would like to see if anyone here can give me insight as to what it is.

I know what ick looks like and I don't think that it is ick, but I will keep an eye on it just in case it is. I do have medicine for ick if it is that.
 
could you post a pic of it?

I wouldn't go treating your fish untill you know what it is. You could be doing more damage than good as most meds with scaleless fish are halved so as not to burn them. A pic would really help
 
My clown loach is getting better, the white spot that is on her head is almost gone. Her right front fin looks the same. She is still hanging at the top of the tank and swimming slowly. I may have to do another round.

I won't be able to get a pic.

lilylop: I have the medicine that has pictures of what diseases they treat and it did look kinda like the fungus cotton wool. I caught it early so it isn't full blown.

I am not able to get a clear picture of the clown loach with the disease on her head.

I always make sure what the problem is before I dose the fish with medicine.

I will treat her with the ich medicine if I see any white spots on her body after she gets better from the fungus. I am thinking that she may be stressed, probably from being sick.

Thank you for your help. Anymore suggestions would greatly be appreciated

Watermelons: I dosed the tank with anti-fungus on Tuesday. Have to do another dose tonight, then hopefully she (clown loach) will be all better.
 
Loaches are extremely hard to get pics of sometimes lol like all fish I guess. Glad to see that the treatment is working. It could have been a start to hole in the head but that mainly afffects cichlids (sp). Keep up with the treatment and maintain regular water changes and she should be fine. You can also treat ich with out meds by slowly raising the temp to 30 -31 degrees and leaving it for 5 days just incase you ever get it and you don't have any meds on hand :)
 
Why thank you for that insight about treating ich without meds. Yeah I love my clown loaches and I have had them for about 6 years, I want them to get huge. Hopefully I will have enough money to get a bigger tank for when they get bigger. Clown loaches grow slow enough that it would take years for them to get about 12-20in.
 
What ingredients are in the meds you dosed? Many common fish medications will kill skin/scaleless/catfish and other delicate fish. This obviously includes plecs and loaches. Also, many common meds from pet stores simply do not work and contain toxic ingredients. Loaches and plecs are some of most delicate fish in terms of sensitivity to toxic medications.

I need to see a pic and know more information...

-What is the temp and temp flux?
-What is the pH and what, if anything, do you soften water with?
-When was the last time you introduced a new fish?
-Do you use any type of frozen or live food other than pellets/wafers/flakes?
-Do you have the ability to isolate this fish in a sick tank?
-What are your ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate readings?
-What do you have on their filtration wise? (you have a HEAVY bio-load)


If the white spot is a cotton looking growth, you are probably correct in it being fungi. HOWEVER, healthy fish just don't get random fungal infections and it is likely related to an underlying condition, often a bacterial infection. The fin rot further supports this. Subsequently, just an anti-fungal may not help the fish. The ideal antibiotic without doing a gram stain and susceptibility test would be doxycycline as it has activity on gram negative and positive bacteria, as well as anti-fungal properties. However, this can also be related to ammonia, nitrite, and even nitrate poisoning and so water quality issues need to be ruled out.

Many medications will kill off the beneficial bacteria of the biological filter. This can result in an ammonia spike and is why medications often say to do daily water changes, sometimes as much as 50% (but usually 10-25%). Unless the anti-fungal you are dosing is griseofulvan (which it probably is not), it is going to kill off some of the biological filter and it is (more than likely) highly toxic. I am guessing you bought sometime containing acriflavine (and sodium), as many generic 'big brand' meds contain it as their active ingredient, in which case it is indeed highly toxic and known for killing good bacteria.

Whatever you do, DO NOT ADD SALT! You will stress the fish too much as plecs and loaches are both very sensitivity to even mild increases in salinity (and it is not healthy for freshwater fish anyway, nor does it really work anymore due to pathogen resistance).
 
NickZac wrote:
What ingredients are in the meds you dosed? Many common fish medications will kill skin/scaleless/catfish and other delicate fish. This obviously includes plecs and loaches. Also, many common meds from pet stores simply do not work and contain toxic ingredients. Loaches and plecs are some of most delicate fish in terms of sensitivity to toxic medications.

I need to see a pic and know more information...

-What is the temp and temp flux?
-What is the pH and what, if anything, do you soften water with?
-When was the last time you introduced a new fish?
-Do you use any type of frozen or live food other than pellets/wafers/flakes?
-Do you have the ability to isolate this fish in a sick tank?
-What are your ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate readings?
-What do you have on their filtration wise? (you have a HEAVY bio-load)


If the white spot is a cotton looking growth, you are probably correct in it being fungi. HOWEVER, healthy fish just don't get random fungal infections and it is likely related to an underlying condition, often a bacterial infection. The fin rot further supports this. Subsequently, just an anti-fungal may not help the fish. The ideal antibiotic without doing a gram stain and susceptibility test would be doxycycline as it has activity on gram negative and positive bacteria, as well as anti-fungal properties. However, this can also be related to ammonia, nitrite, and even nitrate poisoning and so water quality issues need to be ruled out.

Many medications will kill off the beneficial bacteria of the biological filter. This can result in an ammonia spike and is why medications often say to do daily water changes, sometimes as much as 50% (but usually 10-25%). Unless the anti-fungal you are dosing is griseofulvan (which it probably is not), it is going to kill off some of the biological filter and it is (more than likely) highly toxic. I am guessing you bought sometime containing acriflavine (and sodium), as many generic 'big brand' meds contain it as their active ingredient, in which case it is indeed highly toxic and known for killing good bacteria.

Whatever you do, DO NOT ADD SALT! You will stress the fish too much as plecs and loaches are both very sensitivity to even mild increases in salinity (and it is not healthy for freshwater fish anyway, nor does it really work anymore due to pathogen resistance).

First: I cannot separate this fish from the other clown loaches, separating this fish from the other clown loaches will do more harm to her.

What is the temp and temp flux? Temp is about 72 degrees, but I just turned up one of the heaters. I will see about turning the other one up.

What is the pH and what, if anything, do you soften water with? I use Stress Coat to get the chemicals out.

When was the last time you introduced a new fish? No new fish were introduced to the tank

Do you use any type of frozen or live food other than pellets/wafers/flakes? I feed frozen food: blood worms, brine shrimp, and veggies

Do you have the ability to isolate this fish in a sick tank? Clown loaches are not to be isolated, they are social fish, if they are isolated then they will get very lonely and die

What are your ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate readings? I haven't done any water tests. But I will after this treatment. I will do a water test on Saturday or Sunday to make sure everything is normal. How often should I do water tests?

What do you have on their filtration wise? (you have a HEAVY bio-load) Do you mean what do I have for filters? If so, AquaTech and Top Fin, both good for up to 60 gallon fish tanks.

My plecos are doing really good and so are the other two clown loaches and the goldfish. I do have a 10 gallon fishtank but like Isaid I cannot separate her from the other clown loaches, because she will get lonesome and die. I don't want to lose her because she is my biggest one. I have a 7 inch, 5 1/2 inch, and 4 inch clown loaches.

The medicine that Idosed the tank with,has these ingredients: malachite green, arciflavine hydrochloride.

I will be doing a water change after this treatment is cycled through and she (clown loach) is better.

I was thinking that shealso has a bacteria infection, but I will see if someone can come and take a look at her to make sure before I dosewith the anti-bacteria.

Oh yea I never add salt to my fishtanks. I have always wondered about the salt though. But I never add salt to my fishtanks.

I understand that the clown loaches are sensitive fish, but I didn't know that plecos were sensitive fish.

When I dosed the tank I half dosed it, because the clown loaches are scaleless fish and the stuff can harm them if it is full dosed.


 
I just looked at the bottom of my clown loach (the one that is sick) fins and noticed white spots on her back right fin. Looks like I am going to have to dose with Cure Ick if it stays.
 
Sweetie wrote:
NickZac wrote:
What ingredients are in the meds you dosed? Many common fish medications will kill skin/scaleless/catfish and other delicate fish. This obviously includes plecs and loaches. Also, many common meds from pet stores simply do not work and contain toxic ingredients. Loaches and plecs are some of most delicate fish in terms of sensitivity to toxic medications.

I need to see a pic and know more information...

-What is the temp and temp flux?
-What is the pH and what, if anything, do you soften water with?
-When was the last time you introduced a new fish?
-Do you use any type of frozen or live food other than pellets/wafers/flakes?
-Do you have the ability to isolate this fish in a sick tank?
-What are your ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate readings?
-What do you have on their filtration wise? (you have a HEAVY bio-load)


If the white spot is a cotton looking growth, you are probably correct in it being fungi. HOWEVER, healthy fish just don't get random fungal infections and it is likely related to an underlying condition, often a bacterial infection. The fin rot further supports this. Subsequently, just an anti-fungal may not help the fish. The ideal antibiotic without doing a gram stain and susceptibility test would be doxycycline as it has activity on gram negative and positive bacteria, as well as anti-fungal properties. However, this can also be related to ammonia, nitrite, and even nitrate poisoning and so water quality issues need to be ruled out.

Many medications will kill off the beneficial bacteria of the biological filter. This can result in an ammonia spike and is why medications often say to do daily water changes, sometimes as much as 50% (but usually 10-25%). Unless the anti-fungal you are dosing is griseofulvan (which it probably is not), it is going to kill off some of the biological filter and it is (more than likely) highly toxic. I am guessing you bought sometime containing acriflavine (and sodium), as many generic 'big brand' meds contain it as their active ingredient, in which case it is indeed highly toxic and known for killing good bacteria.

Whatever you do, DO NOT ADD SALT! You will stress the fish too much as plecs and loaches are both very sensitivity to even mild increases in salinity (and it is not healthy for freshwater fish anyway, nor does it really work anymore due to pathogen resistance).

First: I cannot separate this fish from the other clown loaches, separating this fish from the other clown loaches will do more harm to her.

What is the temp and temp flux?  Temp is about 72 degrees, but I just turned up one of the heaters.  I will see about turning the other one up.

What is the pH and what, if anything, do you soften water with?  I use Stress Coat to get the chemicals out.

When was the last time you introduced a new fish?  No new fish were introduced to the tank

Do you use any type of frozen or live food other than pellets/wafers/flakes?  I feed frozen food: blood worms, brine shrimp, and veggies

Do you have the ability to isolate this fish in a sick tank?  Clown loaches are not to be isolated, they are social fish, if they are isolated then they will get very lonely and die

What are your ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate readings?  I haven't done any water tests.  But I will after this treatment.  I will do a water test on Saturday or Sunday to make sure everything is normal.  How often should I do water tests?

What do you have on their filtration wise? (you have a HEAVY bio-load)  Do you mean what do I have for filters?  If so, Aqua Tech and Top Fin, both good for up to 60 gallon fish tanks.

My plecos are doing really good and so are the other two clown loaches and the goldfish.  I do have a 10 gallon fishtank but like I said I cannot separate her from the other clown loaches, because she will get lonesome and die.  I don't want to lose her because she is my biggest one.  I have a 7 inch, 5 1/2 inch, and 4 inch clown loaches.

The medicine that I dosed the tank with, has these ingredients: malachite green, arciflavine hydrochloride.

I will be doing a water change after this treatment is cycled through and she (clown loach) is better.

I was thinking that she also has a bacteria infection, but I will see if someone can come and take a look at her to make sure before I dose with the anti-bacteria.

Oh yea I never add salt to my fishtanks.  I have always wondered about the salt though.  But I never add salt to my fishtanks.

I understand that the clown loaches are sensitive fish, but I didn't know that plecos were sensitive fish. 

When I dosed the tank I half dosed it, because the clown loaches are scaleless fish and the stuff can harm them if it is full dosed. 


72 is a bit low for loaches and plecos. You want to be around 80, however, only gradually bump the temp. Even a quick shift of 2 degrees is enough to kill even healthy fish from shock in some cases. A higher temp not only speed metabolism but increases immunity (http://www.loaches.com/species-index/clown-loach-chromobotia-macracanthus)

Do you know the hardness and alkalinity of the water?

The bloodworms and brine shrimp can sometimes act as a vector for disease. This is rare, especially because they are frozen so I would consider it unlikely but not impossible.

Loaches are best kept in large groups due to their social nature, however, isolating a loach in a sick tank is often the best (and only) way of preventing death. It also makes them easier to monitor. When I bred loaches and had 100+ gallon takes with 20+ clowns, I would usually isolate the sick loach with one other healthy loach in a 10, 20, or 40 gallon tank depending on the loach size (some of the breeders were working on a foot long!).

Many makers advertise that malachite green (and formalin) should not be used on fish such as loaches and plecos except as a drug of last resort. Its effectiveness in recent years has also declined leading to a need for a stronger dosing schedule. (http://www.fishdoc.co.uk/treatments/malachite.htm) Acriflavine and malachite green are both highly toxic, especially to plecs and loaches. I would test the water daily as those medications can cause a huge ammonia spike by wiping out the bacterial bed. For loaches, I would use metronidazole, griseofulvan, and/or quinine sulfate, depending upon the condition(s). These medications are not only less stressful to the fish, but are more effective (ex: quinine kills resistant strands of ich that are now malachite and formalin resistant). If the fish has a bacterial condition, it may need to be treated, as many fungal infections are secondary infections stemming from bacteria. However, in some cases, eliminating one disease allows the fish's immune system to effectively eliminate the other. Since she is eating, this is a very good sign.

Salt has been used for years as a ‘tonic’ and ‘cure’ for certain parasites and protozoa…as of today, it is not very effective and it is known that salt can cause organ damage on freshwater fish, especially loaches and plecs. If pet shops tell you to add salt, I would be weary of any advice they give you.
 
Thank you very much.

I just saw her scratch herself on the rocks, so I am going to have to dose with the cure-ick after I get done with the other stuff. Hopefully the ich doesn't manifest too much.
 
Sweetie wrote:
Thank you very much.

I just saw her scratch herself on the rocks, so I am going to have to dose with the cure-ick after I get done with the other stuff. Hopefully the ich doesn't manifest too much.

My pleasure! Quinine sulfate is the best way to go IMO. It is also the only ich medication I know of that not only kills the parasite in the free swimming stage, but also when attached. Most ich cures will have formalin in them and will likely say dose at 1/2 strength for delicate fish or not at all. Unfortunately, there are resistant strains of ich that will not be knocked out by 1/2 (sometimes even a full) dose of the classic formalin and malachite cocktail. Bumping the temp up speeds up the lifecycle of the ich parasite. However, keep in mind that when you bump the temp, you bump the demand for dissolved oxygen as well and so be sure your DO levels remain high (especially if they have ich, which tends to 'cover' the parts needed to function in order for the fish to breath). Quinine also kills virtually all other pathogens that cause itching as well.
 
Just raised the temp on both heaters.

Since I am dosing with the anti-fungus, would it be safe to dose with the cure-ick also, or wait until I am done with the anti-fungus treatment which will be tonight is the last dose that I need to do?
 
Personally I would wait. IIRC both of those products contain malachite green and so dosing them simultaneously may increase the level too high.
 

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