Litter training?
- Thread starter hvanwyk28
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rachaeeelanneee
Well-Known Member
I use a small sized cat litter box for my holland lop. You need to have a litter box big enough that your bun can fit into it all the way
rachaeeelanneee
Well-Known Member
I use a small pet litter, it's at the pet store In the 'small critter' section and it looks kind of like cat litter, but it's specially for rabbits, hamsters, Guinean pigs, ect. The bag I get is about 9$. My bun loves that litter, he uses it more than his old stuff, and a doesn't eat it, there's no odor, and it's really easy to clean.
Also, for litter training, make sure you're putting your buns poops in it's litter box so it knows to go in it. Granted, it can take a while. When you're spending time with your bun outside the cage, bring the litter box with you and set it somewhere the bun can get to. If it poops while you're out with it, put it's poops in it litter box, and then you're bun so it gets the hint. Also, if you see it go to the bathroom in its litter box, give it a treat so your bun knows that it's doing good!
Hope that helped
Also, for litter training, make sure you're putting your buns poops in it's litter box so it knows to go in it. Granted, it can take a while. When you're spending time with your bun outside the cage, bring the litter box with you and set it somewhere the bun can get to. If it poops while you're out with it, put it's poops in it litter box, and then you're bun so it gets the hint. Also, if you see it go to the bathroom in its litter box, give it a treat so your bun knows that it's doing good!
Hope that helped
whiskylollipop
Laura the Bunsnuggler
There could be a number of reasons for that. If it is a baby rabbit, it will not develop litter habits until it's a bit older. Regardless of age, rabbits put in a new environment will pee and poo everywhere for the first few weeks until they settle in and pick their "toilet spot". Rabbits who are not desexed will also feel the hormonal urge to spray-mark everywhere.
Wood chip pellets, also known as horse stall pellets, are VERY cheap and an excellent litter material, I and many members on here use it.
Wood chip pellets, also known as horse stall pellets, are VERY cheap and an excellent litter material, I and many members on here use it.
PaGal
Well-Known Member
I use a thin layer of horse stall pellets and on top I place a thin layer of kiln dried pine shavings. The horse stall pellets are very absorbent but do break down into something like sawdust. I didn't like that being tracked through the cage so I use the pine shavings to stop that plus it cushions the buns feet. Both are inexpensive and with this combo I don't have issues with smell. Pine shavings can be used if they are kiln dried.
It sounds more likely that your bun needs to be litter trained. If his litter box is big enough for all of him to fit into then that is not the problem.
To litter train: Hang a hay rack above the litter box so that the bun has to be in the litter box to eat the hay or place a pile of hay in a corner of the litter box. Don't worry, buns are great at picking out specific pieces of hay from a pile and will not eat peed on hay.
Any poops outside the litter box pick up and place in the litter box. Any pee outside of the litter box, soak a corner of paper towel in the urine and place this in the litter box. Clean up all peed on surfaces with a mix of white vinegar/water. The vinegar breaks down the urine smell so your bun will not return to the same place to pee based on smell.
Limit your buns area until it is litter trained. Most buns are considered litter trained when they pee nowhere but the litter box. It is very rare to find a bun that doesn't drop at least a few poos outside the litter box. Buns will poo to mark their territory as well. This may stop as the buns gets older or when neutered/spayed.
Once your bun is litter trained you can slowly allow it more space. For a larger area you may need to provide more than one litter box.
It sounds more likely that your bun needs to be litter trained. If his litter box is big enough for all of him to fit into then that is not the problem.
To litter train: Hang a hay rack above the litter box so that the bun has to be in the litter box to eat the hay or place a pile of hay in a corner of the litter box. Don't worry, buns are great at picking out specific pieces of hay from a pile and will not eat peed on hay.
Any poops outside the litter box pick up and place in the litter box. Any pee outside of the litter box, soak a corner of paper towel in the urine and place this in the litter box. Clean up all peed on surfaces with a mix of white vinegar/water. The vinegar breaks down the urine smell so your bun will not return to the same place to pee based on smell.
Limit your buns area until it is litter trained. Most buns are considered litter trained when they pee nowhere but the litter box. It is very rare to find a bun that doesn't drop at least a few poos outside the litter box. Buns will poo to mark their territory as well. This may stop as the buns gets older or when neutered/spayed.
Once your bun is litter trained you can slowly allow it more space. For a larger area you may need to provide more than one litter box.
rachaeeelanneee
Well-Known Member
All of what was said above applies to inside the cage.
Sounds like your bun needs a little more work with litter training. It's not so much about the litter as how you get them to go there I think. I get my litter (it's recycled paper pellets) at petsmart for like $8-10 a bag and it lasts quite a while so that might be a good place to start.
I'd recommend in the next week or so, look for where in the cage your bunny is pooping and peeing. Move the litter box to that corner. Then put a hay rack next to the litter box. Where they eat, they will poop. Also some hay in the litter box doesn't hurt either. Also make sure that the rest of the cage or area that your bunny is in doesn't have any litter-like pellets or anything. If the cage is filled with wood chips or pellets it won't have any idea where to go. Really make sure the litter box is distinct from the rest of the space. He'll get it soon enough. After I made my changes to my set up, my bunny was completely litter trained in a week or two and hasn't had any misplaced poop/pee since then!
I'd recommend in the next week or so, look for where in the cage your bunny is pooping and peeing. Move the litter box to that corner. Then put a hay rack next to the litter box. Where they eat, they will poop. Also some hay in the litter box doesn't hurt either. Also make sure that the rest of the cage or area that your bunny is in doesn't have any litter-like pellets or anything. If the cage is filled with wood chips or pellets it won't have any idea where to go. Really make sure the litter box is distinct from the rest of the space. He'll get it soon enough. After I made my changes to my set up, my bunny was completely litter trained in a week or two and hasn't had any misplaced poop/pee since then!
PaGal
Well-Known Member
As well as the above info and what was said on the first page, again make sure the litter box you are using your bun can easily fit all of the way into. A bunny butt doesn't have to hang very far outside of the litter box for them to miss. I have this problem occasionally with my flemmie and he has a large cat litter box.
You can use something other than an actual litter box though. My girls litter box is actually a larger sized plastic storage box with part of one side cut shorter for ease of jumping in and out and with a hay rack hanging inside of it.
You can use something other than an actual litter box though. My girls litter box is actually a larger sized plastic storage box with part of one side cut shorter for ease of jumping in and out and with a hay rack hanging inside of it.
