I'm new here and I have a few Q's

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Llama

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Otie Dotie, here I am, I have a 5 month old allblack mixed breed female bunny. She lives in my room and gets freerange of it at times. She plays wonderfully with my two declawed catsso I don't think she needs a bunny buddy.

My first question is about spaying. When if ever is a good time?Is it reccomended among the likes of you? What kind of changes, good orbad will she go through?

My next question is about diet. I feed her two 1/3 cups ofpellets, 1 scoop plain pellets and 1 scoop of 8 in 1's rabbit diet, ithad corn and seeds and things in it. I try to make sure whe always hashay available. It's regular baled hay, a mix of timothy, alfalfa, and Inoticed clover. I feed her leaf lettuce and Romaine along with cabbage,celery, broccoli, and other things I pick up at the grocery. Treatwise, she LOVES bananas, not the fondest of apples, grapes,blueberries, she will munch on a tomato, but it's NO BANANA to her. Isall of this ok? Should I add anything?

Thirdly, she sneezes. I bought antibiotics from my vet and ithelped but they keep coming back and going away on their own. She is onthe paper bedding(it's grey and looks like bunched paper pulp) so thereisn't any dust. Her nose and eyes aren't runny so I don't think she'shugely sick. I'm just curious.
 
welcome :)

i'd be careful of the corn and seeds .. bunnies arent really meant to digest those if i'm thinking correctly..

and even without dust she could still be irritated by the bedding.. orpretty much anything! any sort of perfumes, carpet fresh, etc etc mightmake her sneeze.. my buns sneezed quite a bit when we were using aparticulartype of litter, but stopped as soon as weswitched.. you might try changing one thing around at a time and see ifanything changes.. like different pellets gradually, different litter,..maybe her hay is dusty?


 
Hi and welcome:D. Your bunnyshould be spayed when she is 6 months old. I don't know what badchanges it may bring, but I know the good ones are it will stopaggression and if you put her with a neutered male bunny they won'thave kits(I think). You should stick with only the normal pelletsbecause the other ones that are colorful have too much calories andmaybe sugar. You don't need to add vegetables to her daily diet justgive it toher as a treat. You should also give her water ifyou don't give her she will not digest food properly.:)
 
Welcome!

Spaying a doe is best done around six months of age. It will reduce herchances of developing cancer, plus she won't have false pregnancies,which isn't good for her either. When that time comes, we'll all beable to help you out and tell you what to expect. It'll prolong herlife, so we're all for it! :) As far as changes, you shouldn't see toomuch of a change in her personality. If any, it'll be for the better.My doe Abby is much more affectionate with us now that she's beenspayed. We are not complaining to theconstant kisses she giveus.

Like the others said, I'd cut back on the feed w/ the seeds and corn.It's not good for them overall. It is good that you are giving her aconstant supply of hay, they need that fiber to help push fur throughtheir systems so they do not get hairballs. Rabbits cannot vomit (notsure if you knew this or not), so hay is a very important part of theirdiet. Most of us give Timothy Hay, as Alfalfa is high in calories.

Good to hear she gets along well with your kitties. I have two cats also, and three rabbits. All are one big happy family. :)
 
Welcome to the Forum! Everybody seemsto have done an excellent job answering your questions, so there isn'tany reason for me to add any superfluous comment.

You'll find people here are fairly knowledgeable and will give yousolid advice based upon their study and/or experiences. Kindof like have an entirely "smart" family, with no dumbheads!LOL

Buck
 
Hi. I'd stay away from the cabbage and regularlettuce. they aren't good for bunnies and can mess up their digestivesystem really bad. Especailly the cabbage. Romaine is ok though. Getrid of the corn. That can actually be toxic for your rabbit to eat. Tryto stay away from colorful bunny foods. they arent good for yourrabbit, and have alot of junk added to it.

Your bunny could have alergies or the snuffles. Unfortunately sometimes those are hard to treat.
 
Spiced77: It can't be any cleaning things fromthe floor as I don't really use any and this hay is the least dusty Ihave ever seen. I really have no idea since once again she hasn'tsneezed in a few days.

bluebird: I forgot about the gas that cabbage gives the one that eats it. Thaks for reminding me!

*nepo*: First off she always has water. I didn't think about addingthat because it's a daily routine here to water all the animals. Wehave tons! I'm starting to think I shouldn't have bought 16 pounds offood...

Stephanie: I knew that rabbits could not vomit, but thanks for makingsure. I should have added that I have two books on rabbits. I don'tlike the fact that our bale has Alfalfa in it but it is supposed to bemostly Timothy. It's a money thing there, the bale was cheaper thanbuying just one type. And I am definitely going to get her spayed latethis winter.

Buck Jones: Thanks! :)

dixonsrabbitry: I don't give her Iceberg if that's what you mean byregular lettuce. The leaf lettuce only comes home when the store is outof Romaine.


Now, what if I give her small amounts of the mixed food along withlarger amounts of the plain pellets until the mixed is gone? And no onesaid anyhting about bananas. I'm curious about them since she lovesthem so much.
 
Llama wrote:
Andno one said anyhting about bananas. I'm curious about them since sheloves them so much.


Greetings Llama,

I'm surprised that no one commented on the bananas. I give them to 4out of 5 of my buns. In small ammounts though. Bananas will make forchubby bunnies.

My one bun, Chippy, seems to have problems with a lot of things I'vegiven her. She has gotten soft stools from greens, bananas, rasins.Even the canned pumpkin and fresh pinappleseem to affect herin the same way. I put her back on water, hay, and pellets and by thenext day she's back to normal poops. Too bad because she loves all thatstuff. We just got her from PetCo and I don't think she ever had anytreats before. She's 9 months old.

It's really funny when I head down the hallway singing "Nanas for dabunnies, Nanas for da bunnies....". When I get to their room, therethey are with their noses pushed through the cages. While I give toone, the rest are doing the Bunnie 500 in their cages. Poor Chippy islike "What about me?" I give her some rolled oats and she seems to besatisfied with them.

Jim
 
Yep that feeding sounds like it should be ok. Iwould cut off the corn and the cabbage though. Cabbage has been knownto cause gastritus in rabbits.

I have a rescuer friend that has great feeding info that shes gottenfrom the hrs website but has altered it to make it her own. She didalot of her own research whats safe to feed your rabbit veggie wise,and how much you should really feed them. Ill see if If I can get thatfrom her sometime and post it here. Or maybe I can get her to coem hereand post it here.

I took a look at it one time and was blown away by it. And I normally dont support feeding veggies of any kind. :)
 
This is what is recommended by my rescuer friend for pet rabbits. :) :

Diet:
Diet for rabbits is quite a big debate in the rabbit world. Many rabbitbreeders feed their rabbits only pellets and hay, and consider veggiesas treat foods, while the HRS and most pet owners incorporate veggieson a much larger scale and consider them an essential part of rabbitnutrition. Some people choose not to feed pellets at all, and only givetheir bunnies veggies and hay. A rabbit is capable of living a long,healthy life on any one of these diets, but such disparity often leadsto arguments when people forget that there is no absolute “right” wayto keep and care for a rabbit.

I choose to feed my rabbits a diet that is based on the House RabbitSociety diet, but is a bit more moderate in terms of veggies and otherfresh foods. This “middle ground” is what has worked for me personallyfor 20+ rabbits in my care, and what I feel comfortable recommending tonew rabbit owners. I feel it works better than either extreme (allpellets and no veggies, or all veggies and no pellets). I have yet tohave a single rabbit in my care die before 10 years of age, nor have Iever experienced the dreaded gastrointestinal stasis that commonlyarises with other diets. However, please keep in mind that all rabbitsare different, and what works for one may not work for another. I offermy feeding instructions as a guideline that is based on a lot ofresearch and personal experience – you may decide to modify it asneeded.

Hay:
Undisputedly, the main part of any rabbit’s diet should be good-qualityloose timothy hay. Fresh alfalfa hay is too rich for older bunnies(over six months), so should be fed sparingly as a treat or not at all.Hay prevents blockages and provides valuable fiber. Rabbits should befed as much timothy hay as they will consume. A hay rack is helpful toensure a good supply is available at all times. I use this one, withsome cardboard backing to keep hay from falling out of the cage. Forsome reason they picture it upside down on this site.
http://www.petco.com/product_info.asp?sku=4512561912&dept_id=%2D2

Oxbow(http://www.oxbowhay.com)is an excellent company to purchase hay from. If you buy timothy in thepet or feed store, make sure it is fresh and free of contamination.Kaytee is a decent pet store hay brand. L&M hay never looks toogood – there are fresher and better cuts available. Never feed moldy,overly dusty, or damp hay.

Regardless of where you purchase hay for your rabbit, it is best tofreeze the hay for at least 24 hours before feeding any, in order tokill any parasites that might transfer to your rabbit. Store hay in anairtight container, in a dry, cool place
 
Pellets:
Good quality plain rabbit pellets are the second part of a rabbit’sdiet. Alfalfa pellets* are the most commonly available type, althoughtimothy pellets may be a better choice for rabbits over a year old.Whatever brand you buy, make sure they are fresh and appetizing.Pellets should smell good and look good (not dry and overly dusty orlight brown). Again, never feed moldy, stale, or damp pellets. Storepellets in a dry, cool environment, preferably in an air-tightcontainer.

A good pellet will be composed of approximately 14-16% protein, be highin fiber (17-18% minimum, the higher, the better!), and be low in fatand calcium. Avoid high protein pellets, as these are designed foryounger animals. Good brands are Purina or Oxbow. Mixes sold in petstores that are composed of all kinds of "junk" like seeds and grainsare not an ideal base food for rabbits, but may be fed sparingly as atreat. For the regular food, however, feed plain pellets.

A healthy adult rabbit will eat about a ¼ cup – 1 cup of pellets perday, depending on the breed. I feed my 5.5 lb mini-rex ¼ cup of pelletsper day, while my Flemish Giant (15 lbs) gets ¾ cup of pellets a day. Agood general idea of how much to feed daily is a little less than anounce of pellets per pound of rabbit. If a rabbit is overweight anddoes not get much exercise, or ignores her hay in favor of pellets,decrease the amount of pellets fed. Young rabbits (under 6 months)should be fed unlimited pellets.

Feed pellets in a heavy bowl that cannot be tipped over easily orchewed up. Better yet are food bowls that attach to the side of thecage, and thus cannot be dumped. Clean and disinfect food bowls once aweek.

*Timothy pellets are becoming available more often. Some claim thattimothy pellets are better for older and overweight animals, but ifweight is an issue and you cannot find timothy pellets, simply cuttingdown on the amount of alfalfa pellets should suffice.


Veggies, Fruits & other Supplements:
Fresh vegetables and fruits are eagerly consumed by rabbits and are avery important part of their diet. The key to feeding these ismoderation and good common sense. It is better to feed less than toomuch fresh food, especially when starting out the diet. Be especiallycareful when feeding rabbits under the age of six months. Rabbitsyounger than 12 weeks should not be fed fresh food of any kind. Avoidiceberg lettuce and cabbage – both are not good for your rabbit.

A rabbit that is fed too much fresh food all at once will get diarrhea,which can be dangerous – even lethal. The best bet is to introduce anew food slowly and gradually, and never feed too much of it. Add onevegetable or fruit to the diet at a time. Eliminate if it causes softstools or diarrhea. Feed sugary vegetables and fruits sparingly.

I feed my mini-rex about 1 cup of veggies per day, while my Flemmiegets about 3 cups of veggies daily. Remember to start gradually andfeed no more than 3 cups of veggies a day even for the largest rabbits.Following my diet, rabbits should get about 1 cup of veggies per fivepounds of rabbit. Remember also that every rabbit is different, andsome may have different needs. Keeping an eye on the general health ofyour rabbit and its droppings is advised no matter what the diet.


Suggested Veggies (from www.rabbit.org):

Alfalfa, radish & clover sprouts
Basil
Beet greens (tops)*
Bok choy
Broccoli (mostly leaves/stems)*
Brussels sprouts
Carrot & carrot tops*
Celery
Cilantro
Clover
Collard greens*
Dandelion greens and flowers (no pesticides)*
Endive*
Escarole
Green peppers
Kale (!)*
Mint
Mustard greens*
Parsley*
Pea pods (the flat edible kind)*
Peppermint leaves
Raddichio
Radish tops
Raspberry leaves
Romaine lettuce (no iceberg or light colored leaf)*
Spinach (!)*
Watercress*
Wheat grass

(!)=Use sparingly. High in either oxalates or goitrogens and may be toxic in accumulated quantities over a period of time
*=contains Vitamin A, highly recommended once per day

Suggested Fruits (feed sparingly due to sugar content)

Apple (remove stem and seeds)
Banana
Blueberries
Melon
Orange (including peel)
Papaya
Peach
Pear
Pineapple
Plums
Raspberries
Strawberries
Treats:
Everyone wants to give their rabbits a treat now and then! However, bevery careful what pet store treats you buy for your rabbit – many aredesigned to appeal to consumers and are not especially healthy forrabbits themselves. Always check the ingredients and nutritionalinformation on the package, and steer away from those that have littleor no nutritional value, are high in sugar, protein, calcium, or fat,or contain ingredients not appropriate for rabbits such as animal mealand artificial preservatives like BHT and ethoxyquin.

That said, there are grain mixes and various types of treats availablein pet stores that can be safely fed in small amounts (about atablespoon per day of the mixes maximum). Try to avoid feeding a lot ofseeds, as these may be difficult to digest, and remember that althoughrabbits do have quite a sweet tooth, too much sugar isn’t any betterfor them than it is for you. Overall, some treats of this nature arefine, but your rabbit may be better off given bits of fruit as treatsinstead of commercial treats.

 
JimD wrote:
It's really funny when I head down the hallway singing "Nanas for dabunnies, Nanas for da bunnies....". When I get to their room, therethey are with their noses pushed through the cages. While I give toone, the rest are doing the Bunnie 500 in their cages. Poor Chippy islike "What about me?" I give her some rolled oats and she seems to besatisfied with them.

Jim
heehee! I do that stuff too! I say "oooooBo! want a NANO!?" and he shakes his ears and runs to the cagedoor! :D
 
Okay how about singing "Craisins Craisins, come for a kiss"

Admittedly I may do this, put a craisin in my teeth and both trampleover another to get to me to play who gets to kiss mommy first (reallyit's all about the $#@! craisin, but I'll take a bunny kiss anyway Ican)

Cher
 
I was just looking at the OX Bow site and saw the Hay Cakes, are those really a suitable replacement for regular hay?

Megan
 
I got bo some of those to just add to his regularhay. They were pretty small ones, and he thinks they are atoy and pushes them out the cage holes. :?
 
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