Debating on getting a bunny-100 newbie questions to ask first!

[Subtitles]

I am a huge animal lover but since I've left home a couple of years ago, my only pet is my fish Bubba. From all the research I've been doing, a rabbit seems like the perfect pet for me. However I want input and want to feel prepared before I make the leap!

I am a college student, but have been on my own for a couple of years so know the drill when it comes to roommates, landlords, finding a place with a pet etc..

I would not be comfortable letting the bunny leave my bedroom without a leash. However it is a good sized bedroom. Would this be enough of an area to get the zoomies out? The rabbit would always have atleast an hour (though usually plenty more) out of his/her cage, however there may be days where I am gone for 12 or so hours. Would this be ok?

I came across the bunny, and sent her owner an e-mail.
http://kingston.kijiji.ca/c-pets-to-give-or-donate-Lionhead-Rabbit-1-y-o-W0QQAdIdZ286617935
She seems like a very caring owner and is doing whats best by rehoming her bunny, which is nice to hear! Lola however is not spayed, and I probably wouldn't get her spayed for a little while. What is the dangers of not fixing a rabbit until they are older?

I will absoloutly not be buying a bunny from a petstore, but most likely looking for one in a case like I mentioned above. What questions should I ask, and when I see the bunny what should I look for as far as health is concerned?

*phew* that was long! Thank you to all who read.

 

[Korr_and_Sophie]

A bed room that is not cluttered should be fine. As you get more comfortable with her, you should be able to let her in the rest of the house a long as it is rabbit proofed. You can get an x-pen or something so you can bring her out and feel safe. For harness (never a collar) and leash, you need to make sure you get the right kind and get her used to it.

Females can get uterine cancer or at least tumours if left intact. It seems to be more of a risk after about 5 years, but it is best to get her done before then if you can. If she is 1 year old, you still have time, but start looking for a vet and saving for it.

When looking the rabbit over, you should check the eyes for discharge and that they are clear. The nose should be clean with no discharge. The ears should also be clean with no wax or crusty stuff (can be a sign of mites). Check the teeth (or get the owner to show you), they should line up so the the bottom ones are slightly behind the top ones, look at some photos or normal ones to see what they should look like. Check the nails that they are not over grown, missing or twisted. Also look at the inside of the front paws for wetness as that can be a sign that the nose is running. If you know how to check the sex, do that but don't worry if you can't. Overall, check for bites or scabs and try to feel is she is thin or fat.

 

[Pet_Bunny]

The person on Kijiji seems very generous about giving away the bunny and accessories. Why is she rehoming the bunny?

When you do spay a bunny, it can cost you around $250.00 so you would have to consider that even though your bunny was "free."

Are there shelters or rescues near you that you can check? At our shelter, bunnies are $50.00 and they are already neutered.

 

[mitchellfoster]

Another thing to consider is that every rabbit has a different personality and different habits. If the room is carpeted, it may be wise to buy some cheap rugs to cover the areas that are going to be used by the bun, for they have a tendency to tug and dig at carpet. And be sure that you aren't too attached to any of your furniture, because there's always a chance that they will get chewed on.

When it comes to cages, if you're going to be gone for half a day, it's best to consider creating an enclosure or habitat. X-pens are good, but can be expensive. You can create an enclosure that attaches to the cage using grid panels (bought mine at Bed Bath and Beyond), i.e. NIC cages. Just be sure it's tall enough to prevent them from hopping out. For example, here's what I did for my buns:

 

[Subtitles]

Thank you all so much for the advice! It was really helpful when I went to see her today.
Against my better judgement, I ended up bringing her home with me. She has the sweetest personality! Her owners loved her to death too, but really didn't know much about rabbits.
I noticed she didn't have any hay, so when I asked them they said "she has tried timothy hay before and liked it". Uh oh :S Can I immediatly give her free choice hay or should it be introduced slowly?

It looks like she is on pretty low quality food (Living World-Classic? A mixture of seeds, fruit and vegetables). They said they had tried her on better food before, but she wouldn't eat it.
How do I switch her food? Just mix them together for alittle while?

I'll post a picture of her and the set up they gave me. She is not litter trained, said she likes to sleep in her litter tray (which has no litter or bedding in it?). Said they tried a month ago but it was a no go. She poops all over her cage, then every two weeks they would dump it and put fresh litter down.
How do I litter train her?

I think she would really appreciate a toy, but I'm trying to keep costs down where I can. Is there a cheap alternative or should I buy one from the pet store?

She desperatly needs her nails clipped, which I will do in the next few days as she gets used to me.

Oh boy. I may be in over my head with this little lady, but I like to think I know enough to do my research and seek help!

Any advice is hugely appreciated! Thanks all for the replies so far.

 

[Elf Mommy]

What a lovely lionhead!

 

[Must_Love_Pets]

She is adorable. There is a thread on here somewhere on here how to litter train.

They just have it reversed it looks like. No litter or bedding in the cage at all but in the litter tray itself will be a good start. When you see poops other than in the litter box, pick them up and place them in the litter box. They usually get the tinkle in the litter box down pretty quick but in my exp it's the poops that take the longest. LOL I also use a corner litter tray but with the wire inserts to prevent them from digging out the litter. Here is some more info on liter training as well.

LINK
http://www.barbibrownsbunnies.com/litter_box_training_your_bunny.htm
This is what the link states

Rabbits will, by choice, always (or almost always) use the same area for their toilet. I suggest letting a new rabbit have a few days in it's new cage to select an area. When they begin using one area more than the others, put a litter pan in that corner with a few droppings in the pan. You can also put a paper towel in the tray at the bottom of the cage before putting the litter pan in and then take the wet towel and put it in the litter pan to give them the idea that the litter pan is where to go.

Like dogs, some rabbits get the hang of it quicker than others. Does seem to prefer to have 2 litter pans, one to use for a potty and one to either sleep in or just to keep clean (presumably for the litter of babies she thinks she will have).

Pelleted litter seems to work better with rabbits than cat litter. With cat litter they will track the litter around the house in the fur on their foot pads. The pelleted litters are more absorbent and reduce amonia odors. Please sure to change the litter frequently.

Hanging a hay feeder one the side of the cage above the litter pan will encourage use of the litter pan as well. Many rabbits will potty while eating and the hay feeder encourages them to the proper spot. I do not recommend putting hay IN the litter pan. They would then be eating soiled hay and could infect themselves with shed parasites.

This is how I trained my Flemish and he learned very quickly, my Lionheads on the other hand I am STILL to this day trying. Some take longer than others.

CONGRATS, she is a tootie pie!!!

 

[Korr_and_Sophie]

Give her lots of hay. Hay really doesn't need to be introduced slowly. You can give a smaller amount to start and give more later if you want to.

For the food, I would put the new stuff in a separate bowl. You can also pick out just the pellets from the old stuff and only give her that along with the new stuff. If you mix them, she will probably just eat the seed stuff. Removing the seeds forces her to just have pellets and she gets the choice of the new and old stuff. If they goes well, you can combine them until she is just on the new stuff. She might be picky about it, but if she is eating hay then don't worry about it if she eats fewer pellets.

Take all the litter and stuff out of the cage and clean it really well (white vinegar is great for this). Put some new litter and some of the soiled stuff in the litter box. In the rest of the cage, you can use newspaper, fleece or something else. Use something that is easy to clean and keep it clean. You could have noting for a few days until she gets more used to the litter box. Put the hay in or near the box to encourage her to use it. Make sure to clean up any pee and poops she makes out of the litter box and put them in the box. Hopefully she should start to get it soon.

Cardboard boxes and tubes are good toys. You can also get shower curtain rings or baby teething rings. Cat balls with bells are also good toys. For cardboard tubes, you can stuff them with hay so they last a bit longer.

That cage looks a bit small for her. You should consider getting a larger cage or adding an x-pen or something to give her more room.

It sounds like the previous owners didn't put much effort into some of the things, and might have given up when they didn't work right away. With rabbits, some things take time and you need to be patient and consistent.

 

[Must_Love_Pets]

Oh Toys!!!

So many free ones around the house. some like to play with empty toilet paper rolls or you canb stuff a empty toilet paper roll with timothy hay.

Here are few more. A friend sent this to me at one time I beleive it is off the internet I am sure

Homemade Toys
Some of the best toys for rabbits are ones that you can make yourself or that you can get for free or at low cost. For instance, wood items can make dandy chew toys.

Untreated wood from a workshop or garage in the form of a small block or stick will make most bunnies very happy. As long as the wood is not painted, glued, stained, or treated in some other fashion, it should be safe for your rabbit to gnaw on.

Dried branches or twigs from fruit trees can provide another source of free chew toys for your rabbit. Do be careful about giving them wood from trees, though--some trees, such as redwood, are not good for rabbits. If you use pesticides in your yard, it's best to avoid giving them wood from your trees, even if you don't spray your trees directly.

Pinecones that are dry and free from sap are yet another tree product that many rabbits love. Not only will most rabbits chew them, many bunnies enjoy picking them up and tossing them about.

Cardboard tubes from paper towel or toilet paper rolls make a dandy chew toy. Try stuffing the tubes with hay and watch your rabbit have a great time pulling or chewing the hay out.

Cardboard boxes will be fun for your rabbit to crawl into. I like to put boxes on their side and let my bunny hop in and out. (Likewise, I'll often leave a plastic laundry basket on its side on the floor for him to play in.) Often I leave a little scrap of paper for him to discover inside of the box. Some people like to tape up the boxes and cut one or two openings for their rabbits, so it's a kind of bunny hideaway.

Paper cups are easy for your rabbit to pick up and carry and toss around. Give him/her only paper cups that aren't plastic-coated. Cups made of Styrofoam are also no-nos.

Phone books have got to be the ultimate chew toy. Most rabbits will gnaw happily on these. Be sure that phone books are old because your rabbit won't be giving them up easily. If your rabbit appears to be eating a lot of the paper instead of just shredding it, you might want to restrict your rabbit's access or take away the phone book altogether. (Eating a little paper, though, isn't anything to worry about.)

Crumpled bits of paper will entice some rabbits to play like a cat, batting the paper around. Most rabbits will enjoy chewing the paper, if nothing else.

Baskets made of unpainted and untreated wood or of straw can serve a double purpose if the baskets are big enough for your bunny to crawl into. Not only does your rabbit get a new place to hang out, he/she can chew to his/her heart's content.

Clean, empty cans such as soup or tuna cans can be picked up and carried by your rabbit or batted around by him/her. Be sure that you remove the label and the lid completely and that you file down any sharp edges.

Paper bags like you get at the grocery store will provide a lot of fun for most rabbits. When they get tired of "exploring" the interior of the bag, they can push it around and chew it. Obviously supervised only!

Wooden spoons are appealing to many rabbits, who will carry them around by the handle. And chew them, of course. The spoons should be all wood and unpainted.

Soda cans with a small pebble inside become homemade rattles that many rabbits enjoy. They pick up the can or roll it, enjoying the rattling of the pebble in the process. Be sure to take off the tab and file down any sharp edges first. My sisters Flemish "Echo" loves her can.

Digging boxes are cardboard boxes or litter pans that are filled with old carpeting, newspapers, hay, or cloth. As you might guess from the name, a digging box is a place where your bunny can dig to his/her heart's content.

Towels or blankets can be great fun for your bunny. Many rabbits like to bunch cloth up, knead it, and drag it to a new spot. Pick up one end of the cloth, and some rabbits will play tug-of-war with you. If your rabbit starts to chew through the cloth and eat it, though, best take it away. Cloth might harm a rabbit's digestion.

What Works Best for Your Bunny
Not all rabbits will play with all toys. Experiment until you find toys that appeal to your bunny. Just like kids, bunnies can get tired of toys, so don't be surprised if yours plays with a new one for a couple of weeks and then abandons it. (Often, rabbits "remember" forgotten toys in a few days or weeks.) Try having a few toys on hand, perhaps in a box that he/she can take from when the mood strikes or that you can lay in his/her cage.

Rabbits are a lot of fun to watch when they're playing. Toys are something that both you and your rabbit can enjoy.

 

[Subtitles]

THANK YOU everyone! You are all lifesavers. She now has a toilet paper roll, which is all I could find at the moment. I can't wait to go shopping for her tomorrow! And to start on the litter training.

I'm curious-Why do rabbits need pellets at all? If they are getting a wide variety of greens and veggies, plus hay, would that not be a good diet (considering how they eat in the wild)?
Sorry for the newbie question!

 

[Korr_and_Sophie]

Pellets provide vitamins and minerals that can be hard to get from more natural sources. One big one is vitamin D, this is obtained from unfiltered sunlight (so you have to be outside). Since more pet rabbits don't get outside for long enough everyday, you need to provide some sort of supplement. You don't have to give a lot of pellets, about 1/8 of a cup per day should be enough, but you should give some.

 

[Subtitles]

That makes sense, thanks for the explanation!

Lola has way more energy then I ever could have imagined. She spent the entire night running back and forth in her cage (which resulted in no sleep for her now cranky new owner!). At first I thought it was nerves, but that didn't seem to be the case (she seems relaxed in an energizer bunny kinda way). However, I can not get over how much she poo is in her cage this morning!So it might be nerves after all? I can't wait to let her have lots of free time to roam today, I'm sure that will be a huge help.

For the most part my bedroom is bunny proofed, I just have to figure out what to do with the cords. When I get that sorted out (and she becomes a bit better with the litter training hopefully!) I'd like to let her roam my room at night. Is it safe if she decides to sleep in my bed? What things should I worry about?

 

[elrohwen]

Congrats on the new bunny! You've gotten some great advice.

Bunnies are most active at dawn and dusk and many will be active until around 1am, then wake up again at 5:30am. They can be a pain to have in your room at night!

They also poop *a lot*, so I imagine it's just her normal output and not related to nerves (nervous bunnies are less likely to poop).

Good luck with her. You can let her out overnight if she proves herself to be well behaved, but I would give it at least a few months to be sure you won't wake up with pee all over your bed and holes chewed in the sheets.

 

[MiniLopHop]

What a beautiful baby! I have a bun in my bedroom as well. She has proven that she can behave herself and I never shut the cage/playpen anymore. She still seems to spend most of the time in her own space, but will wander around at night just checking out the room. If she didn't get enough attention during the day she will toss her bell toys to express her disapproval. I find it too cute to get mad at her and make a point to play with her more the next day.

Once you know she is bed safe, my girl loves to snuggle in bed. She gets between the sheets so it's like a little burrow. If I puff up and down the top sheet she binkies around like crazy. I guess it is sort of a hide and seek game.

You can get a large tile from Home Depot for about $1 to give them a nice cool spot to lay.

The cardboard oatmeal containers with both ends pulled off can be stuffed with crumpled paper with a couple rasins as surprises. It makes a great "project" for them to work on.

Target, if you have one, just had bamboo placemats on sale, 4 for $2.50. That makes a great thing to dig on and chew.

To cover the cords you can get fish tank tubing and cut it lengthwise to insert the cords. For my more avid chewers that are in my office I used the NIC cube pannels to create a small fence all around the edges of the room. That prevents them from having access to cords and my book shelves.

Best of luck getting settled in with your new bun.

 

[elrohwen]

Oh, a good toy (not sure if it was mentioned) is a phone book with the covers ripped off. They love to shred the paper.

 

[Must_Love_Pets]

lol the phonebook was mentioned in my looooong silly list, LOL

I have to get out my old ones and let all 3 at them. They are due for a phonebook party.

 

[Subtitles]

Thank you thank you THANK YOU! I can not thank you all enough!
We just recieved a new phonebook which my roommate immediatly threw in the recyling. Which I of course promptly pulled out!
If she tried to eat it, can it be toxic to her? She tried to eat all paper, I'm assuming because they never gave her hay.

Lola does NOT like to be picked up. The second I have two hands on her she fights like crazy. I am so worried that I'm going to end up hurting her when she does that-so how do I get her back in her cage? I have tried gently guiding her, but it doesn't seem to help.

Between the timothy hay and the .99 cat toy I bought her this morning, you'd think she had died and went to heaven! She's not a hard one to please!

OH before I forget-She loves to lick. She'd like my hands forever if I let her. Is this an affection thing, or could it be a sign she is missing something from her diet?

 

[MiniLopHop]

awwww, bunny kisses. She knows she has a good home now! Licking is a sign of affection.

The easiest way to get her back in is to heard her that way (stand behind her and shuffle your feet and/or give her a little pat on the bottom in the direction you want her to go). Then she can hop in on her own. At first I wouldn't try picking her up until she settles in a bit. Then you can start to build trust with pets, then putting your hand under her belly for a moment, then work up to picking up. From the rabbit's point of view you are a preditor trying to cary them off, so it is frightning.

 

[Subtitles]

Thanks minilop!

Another litter training question-Though she seems to be going all over her cage, she tends to go most often on top of her green hut, I'm assuming because she likes to lay there. Should I try putting the litterpan ontop of her hut? That means I wouldn't be able to keep her food near the litter pan.

 

[elrohwen]

I would put the litter pan wherever she wants to go. It's not important that food is near litter as long as she has hay in the litter box.

If you have a pretty set schedule, you can use your feeding times to get her back in the cage. I feed mine every night as I'm going to bed, so the buns run back happily on their own.