BREED LIBRARY PROJECT: FINAL ARTICLE SUBMISSIONS (for editing)

[TinysMom]

Californians:

Californian Rabbit Specifics

The Californian Rabbit is a versatile, pleasing large breed of rabbit.The friendly, nonaggressive temperament of the Californian Rabbit makes this breed of rabbit an excellent house pet, especially to families with children.

Appearance:
The Californian Rabbit reaches an adult weight of ten to twelve pounds, with the does on the higher end of the scale. The rabbit has a white body with the ears, tail, feet and nose a dark brown to black color, with black being preferred. The rabbit also has pink or red eyes, just like his New Zealand White ancestor.

History:
The Californian Rabbit was first shown in 1928 at a South Gate, California rabbit show. The Californian Rabbit began when, in 1923, George West cross bred a Himalayan rabbit to a Standard Chinchilla to produce a chinchilla colored buck. This buck was bred to several New Zealand White does, resulting in the rabbit we currently know as the Californian.

Health:
As with all large breed rabbits, the Californian will tend to get sore hocks if kept in a wire bottomed pen. Proper measures must be taken to avoid them. Aside from the occasional problem of sore hocks, Californian Rabbits are not generally bothered withhealth problems.

Personality:
The Californian’s personality ranges from a very social and loving animal to a very quiet and reserved one. He is generally mild mannered and even tempered. The body is sturdy, compact and healthy, making him an excellent choice for your house pet.

4-H/FFA:
For those interested in a 4-H or FFA Market Rabbit project, the trend in the south leans towards the popular Californian. However, the New Zealand White comes in a close second. The Californian reaches his market weight quickly, in just under 12 weeks time. He is easy to keep in show condition and his mild temperament makes him easy to handle, impressing fair judges.

The Showroom weights for the Californian are as follows:

Senior Bucks-8 months of age and over, weight 8-10 lbs. Ideal weight 9 lbs.
Senior Does-8 months of age and over, weight 8 1/2-10 1/2 lbs. Ideal weight 9 1/2 lbs.
Int Bucks-under 8 months of age, not over 9 lbs.
Int Does-under 8 months of age, not over 9 1/2 lbs.
Jr. Bucks-under 6 months of age, not over 8 lbs. Min weight 5 1/2 lbs.
Jr. Does-under 6 months of age, not over 8 1/2 lbs. Min weight 5 1/2 lbs.
Pre-Jr. Bucks & Does- under 3 months of age, not over 5 1/2 lbs.


Californian Rabbit Specialty Club

Eunita Boatman
22162 So Hunter Rd.,
Colton, OR 97017-9710
(503) 824-2138
Email [email protected]
Californian Rabbit Specialty Club website

 

[TinysMom]

Himilayans:

The Himalayan Rabbit is a fancy breed, raised and owned primarily for show purposes. Himalayans are friendly, laid back, and purely non-aggressive, while being active and playful all the same. These rabbits seek attention and are easily handled, making them popular as both a show and pet rabbit for adults and children alike.

Breed Slogan: Majestic Beauty of the Ages

Body type: Cylindrical

Fur Type: Flyback

Appearance: Himalayans generally have white bodies and dark, or colored extremities. The color is located on the nose, ears, front legs, hocks, the tail, and in colder weather will ofter get ‘mascara’ or ‘eyebrows’ over/around their eyes, called eye-stain, and this comes in four different colors. The body on a Himalayan is long and snaky or tubular, even in a relaxed position. In an alert stance, they have a tendency to look like a full arch breed.

Temperament: Himalayans, or, ‘Himis’, make excellent pets. These small, active rabbits are EXTREMELY friendly and laid back. Personality ranges from shy to extremely active and playful, and this depends on what kind of breeder you buy from, or how the rabbit was ultimately raised. More attention from birth-maturity tends to mean a bigger, more bold personality. Many of the bigger national breeders will have more reserved rabbits, as not as much time can be afforded to socializing.

History: The Himalayan is certainly a breed with a rich history. Himalayans have been around since the 12[sup]th[/sup] century. Monks in monasteries in the Himalayas (hence the name) used to sit them on silk pillows and pray to them for hours at a time. This is what is generally attributed to the calm and docile nature of these rabbits. They were introduced in Europe around 1840 and were imported into the US during the Belgian Hare boom of the early 1900’s. This breed is a heritage breed if there ever was one.

Health: Finer bone may cause some issues in some lines, but Himalayans are not known to be plagued by health issues and can be kept with little to no issues.

As a show animal: Himalayans are an ideal show animal for seasoned veterans of the hobby as well as novices. First of all, the breed is unique. The cylindrical type is specific ONLY to Himalayan rabbits. This breed is considered a marked breed, but one can expect all babies in a litter to be show able. In most areas, there is ample competition, but not obsessive competition. Himalayan breeders tend to be just as casual as the animals they are showing, making for a fun environment at the tables and very little politics to involve yourself in. It is not impossible to win, and when you do… there are no hard feelings to be had. Despite the benefits, there is one setback. The variety ‘pointed white’ or ‘Himalayan’ is the only one that can and will grow a DQ at any time. Smut is a frustrating thing and will grow in thanks to contact with cold surfaces, colder weather, and the simplest of things including leaning against cage bars or a cold front during a rabbit’s molt.

As a 4-h animal: Himalayans are very good for conformation or breed judging parts, but not as a showmanship animal. Use of Himalayans during showmanship requires special handling. Over-handling and scruffing the rabbit can result in permanent smut across the animal’s shoulders, making them an instant DQ every time.

Breeding: Often breeders can’t get a pair to mate successfully in a cage, so this is a breed that is often table-bred or put into a pen to breed. Once you get past this, however, the process is simple, assuming you know what you are doing. Himalayans are extremely prolific, having large litters, usually of 6-7. They are usually excellent mothers and take very good care of their kits as a general rule.

Recognized Colors: Black, Blue, Chocolate, Lilac

Showroom Weights:

Sr. Bucks and Does: Over 6 mos. of age, 2 ½ - 4 ½ lbs, ideal weight 3 ½ lbs

Jr. Bucks and Does: Under 6 mos. of age, minimum 1 ¼ lbs.

Breed Specific Disqualifications: Dewlap, toenails not matching on same or corresponding foot, smut on any usable portion of the pelt, white spots in any marking.

American Himalayan Rabbit Association website: http://himalayanrabbit.com/

American Himalayan Rabbit Association,

Errean Kratochvil, Sec/Treas

7715 Callan Ct., New Port Richey, FL 34654

Phone: 727-847-1001 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting727-847-1001end_of_the_skype_highlighting; e-mail: [email protected]

 

[TinysMom]

Palominos:

The Palomino is a 6 class breed. A medium sized rabbit. They are very gentle, calm and laid back. Also very playful and inquisitive though. Their apperance staying that cute baby bunny look throughout most of their lives. They make wonderful pets for people of all ages. Although only people more experianced with handling rabbits should have this rabbit as a lap pet.

Breed Slogan: Be a pal to the Pals

Body Type: Commercial

Fur Type: Flyback

Appearance: A very stocky type rabbit. They are very cute in appearance and keep they're babyish looks throughout most of their lives. The bucks have a very wide, massive head and the does more slender noses.

Health: Generally an overall healthy rabbit. Like most heavy beeds though, they are prone to sore hocks. So a mat or board of some sort in their cage is encouraged.

Breeding: A prolific breed, averageing from 6-9 kits in a litter. Usually a very good mother, produce a lot of milk and males are normally agressive breeders.

Recognized Varietys: Gold - Lynx

Note: Sometimes an Albino kit (White, red eyes) will pop up in litters. These are not showable but do just as great as pets.

Showroom Weights:Sr. Bucks - 8-10lbs 9 ideal Sr. Does - 9-11lbs 10 idealIntr. Bucks - Not over 9lbs Intr. Does - Not over 9 1/2lbsJr. Bucks - Not over 8lbs Min of 4 Jr. Does - Not over 8 1/2 lbs Min of 4Pre-Junior - Bucks & Does - Not over 5 pounds

 

[TinysMom]

Silver Martens (NEEDS MAJOR EDITING & Additional information to fit the format we'd like to use).


The first Silver Martens were developed in the 1920's. Standard Chinchilla breeders had introduced Tan bloodlines into the breed in the hopes of improving color and pattern. This resulted in the tan pattern genes being carried on in the offspring. The Chinchilla genes affected the tan coloring causing it to turn silver. Some of the black and silver colored kits were saved and line bred. These uniquely colored rabbits were named Silver Martens in 1924 and the standards were written for the blacks and chocolates in 1927. The blues were accepted in 1929 and the sables were accepted in 1933. The first Silver Marten breed club was formed in 1927.

With their flashy appearance and calm, easy going and sometimes playful temperaments, Silver Martens are popular both as a show and pet breed.
Silver Martens are considered a medium sized rabbit and have fly back fur. They have an average weight of 6 to 9 pounds with 7 ½ pounds being the most common.
Silver Marten does make excellent mothers and foster mothers, but as with any other breed this can sometime very depending on the lines that you get them from.

Blackis the most popular variety. They should be jet black with the color going as far down the hair shaft as possible. There should be a sharp contrast between the black coloringand the silver markings. Their eyesshould bedark brown.

Blue is the second most popular variety. They should be an even dark slate blue. Their eyes should be blue-gray.

Chocolate is the third most common variety. Their color is rich dark chocolate. Their coloring is described as looking like dark semisweet chocolate rather than milk chocolate. Their eyesshould bebrown.

Sable Silver Martens are the least common variety and can almost appear to be a different breed entirely. They should be a medium sepia brown on the saddle with shading going down their sides blending into a lighter color. Their ears, face, tail, outside of the feet and lower legs should be a very dark sepia brown, nearly black, providing a distinct contrast to the body color. Correctly colored sables will be a silvery color at birth. Their eyesshould bebrown.

The silvering on a Silver Marten should appear encircling their nostrils and eyes, on the back of their ears, on their belly and as a triangle on the back on their neck between their ears. There should also be silver ticking on their feet and coming up their sides.
It is not uncommon to have a solid colored kit crop up in a Silver Marten litter.

For show purposes the Silver Marten should have a short neck with wide shoulders and well developed hind quarters. When in a show pose, they should look almost like a half of a basketball.

 

[TinysMom]

Holland Lops:


The Holland Lop rabbit is the smallest of the lop-eared breeds recognized by the American Rabbit Breeder's Association. Holland Lops weigh in at about 2-4 lbs., and their small weight combined with their curious, playful personality makes them one of the most popular breeds for both show and companion pets.

Breed Slogan: The Hallmark Breed

Body type: Compact

Fur Type: Rollback

Appearance: Holland Lops are known for their massive look in a small package. The signature look of a Holland Lop is a large, wide head and short lopped ears. Holland Lops are a compact breed and are posed sitting up straight with their front feet resting lightly on the table. Hollands are recognized in many color groups, including agouti, broken, pointed, self, shaded, tan pattern, ticked, and wideband.

Temperament: Holland Lops have a very curious and friendly personality. They are often "on the go", exploring their surroundings. But they always hop back for some attention from their favorite person! Hollands have a very showy personality as well and most enjoy sitting up pretty for the judges, which makes them one of the most popular and competitive breeds currently recognized by the ARBA. But their sweet personality and curious nature make them a great companion pet breed as well.

History: The Holland Lop originated from a Netherland Dwarf x French Lop experiment conducted by Adrian de Cock of Tillburg, Holland. This line of breedings created a dwarf-sized lop-eared rabbit which was eventually recognized in its earliest form by the Netherland's Governing Rabbit Council in early 1964. A little over a decade later, in 1979, Holland Lops were recognized in the United States by the ARBA.

Health: Holland Lops are generally very healthy rabbits. There are no known health complications specific to this breed.

As a show animal: Holland Lops have a lot to offer as a show animal, though the competition is fierce! It is recommended that new breeders start their Holland herd by saving up and purchasing the absolute best stock they can afford. Perfecting the Holland takes years of dedication and many breeders become discouraged in their earlier years with the breed and may not continue. But for those who stick it out, the rewards are endless. There is a lot of pride in producing a consistent, winning show Holland!

As a 4-h animal: Holland Lops make an excellent 4-H animal because of their small size (great for younger, smaller exhibitors) and docile nature.

Breeding: Breeding can be challenging with Holland Lops. It is not uncommon for them to "miss" and not concieve a litter after being bred. And even when they do deliver a healthy litter, there is a chance of peanuts (kits who recieve a fatal double-dwarfing gene) since Hollands carry the dwarfing gene, or "normals" which do not recieve the dwarfing gene and will go over show weight as seniors.

Recognized Colors: Lots- any particular way you want this organized?

Showroom Weights:

Sr. Bucks and Does: Over 6 mos. of age, 2-4 lbs, ideal weight 3 lbs

Jr. Bucks and Does: Under 6 mos. of age, minimum 2 lbs.

Breed Specific Disqualifications: Nothing breed-specific that I know of...

 

[Shaded Night Rabbitry]

This is from Emily/Blue Camas Rabbitry. (lol, wait, why couldn't you copy/paste this?)

The Mini Rex is a small rabbit breed that is becoming very popular with breeders/exhibitors and pet owners alike. The soft, plush, velvety coat quickly wins over pet owners, and with a wide range of varieties, cute personalities and great conformation, more and more exhibitors and breeders are being pulled into the world of Mini Rex!

Breed Slogan: The People’s Choice

Body Type: Compact

Fur Type: Rollback

Appearance: Mini Rex are to be a compact, small breed, weighing less than 4 ½ pounds (for does) and less than 4 ¼ for bucks. Mini Rex can be of several different varieties, from Black, Blue, and Castor, to Chinchilla, White, Red, and Chocolate, as well as the Broken Group.

Temperament: Mini Rex are very sweet and make great pets. They are very laid back, and gentle, but at the same time they are active and playful as well. Personalities will range from shy, to very curious and explorative, depending on how much interaction they had while growing up.

History: Mini Rex were first presented at the ARBA Convention in 1986. The presenter was Mona Berryhill of Texas. She had won a pair of dwarf rabbits in a raffle in 1984, and that got her started on the Mini Rex we know and love today. The Mini Rex was accepted as a new breed in 1988, and over the course of several more years, more varieties were accepted into the recognized list for the Mini Rex.

Health: The Mini Rex tends to have light fur coverage on their feet, so sore hocks is quite common in this breed. Like several other breeds, it’s easy for Mini Rex to gain weight, so it’s important to keep them at their maximum weights.

As A Show Animal: Mini Rex are very popular show rabbits, and are very common amongst youth exhibitors, just as much as the open exhibitors. Mini Rex are shown in one of 17 varieties, and are a 4-class breed. They are judged on a compact body, ears under 3 ½ inches and well balanced with the body. Fur is worth 35 points on the Mini Rex, covering such things as density, texture, and length.

As a 4-H/FFA Animal: Mini Rex are very popular amongst 4-Hers and FFA exhibitors. They are a great animal to use on the showmanship table because of their size, as well as easy breed pose. Since they are so popular, many are also used in breed ID, and judging classes, because exhibitors are very familiar with the breed.

Breeding: Mini Rex can have a litter size of anywhere from 2 to about 6 kits, although some does can have larger litters.
Recognized Colors: Black, Blue, Blue-Eyed-White, Broken Group, Castor, Chinchilla, Chocolate, Himalayan, Lilac, Lynx, Opal, Red, Seal, Tortoise, White, Otter, and Sable Point

Showroom Weights:
Sr. Bucks: 6 months of age and over. 3 to 4 ¼ pounds, ideal weight 4 pounds.
Sr. Does: 6 months of age and over. 3 ¼ to 4 ½ pounds. Ideal weight 4 ¼ pounds.
Jr. Bucks & Does: Under 6 months of age. Maximum weight 3 ¾ pounds. Minimum weight 2 pounds.

Breed Specific Disqualifications:
Ears over 3 ½ inches, fur longer than longer than 7/8 of an inch thick, extremely low shoulders, body which is extremely rangy or racy.

National Mini Rex Rabbit Club: www.nmrrc.net

 

[BlueCamasRabbitry]

^^ I couldn't copy/paste it because of my silly computer. Internet closes when I try to copy/paste stuff into certain browsers/text boxes.

Emily

 

[leo9lionheads]

Breed Slogan: “The Pride of the Fancy”

Body type: Short, Compact & well-rounded with broad shoulders & hindquarters

Fur Type: Rollback on the coat and the mane is to be wool

Appearance: Lionheads should be posed with their front feet resting lightly on the table. They should naturally have an upright stance that shows their full chest and mane.

Temperament: In general they are a laid back, docile breed but specimins that have recieved little to no handling can be high strung but are easily tamed down with regular handling.

History: There are many speculations of where and how the Lionheads originated from but it is known they are the first mutation since the 1930’s with the satins and originate from the European continent. They where first imported by Jo Ann Statler into Minnesota in 2000 and have since then spread through the whole US. Bob Whitman a very knowledgeable rabbit history buff spent years researching the history of Lionheads and wrote an article with what he be leaves is the true history of the Lionhead and is the most theory supported by Lionhead Breeders . Due to his death in 2009 his article has been lost online but can be found in the NALRC Guidebook and parts of it found on the NALRC website along with the history of Lionheads in America.


Health: At one time several years ago, there were reports of some seizures in lionheads. Since then, many other genetic lines have been bred into the lionheads and it is not commonly heard of for lionheads to have seizures. Gail Gibbons (prior COD holder) was tracking this a few years ago. Since then there have been little to no health complications in Lionheads besides them being susceptible to wool block like other wool breeds.

As a show animal: At this point in time (2010), lionheads are still in the process of being recognized. If Theresa Mueller (current COD holder) passes the 1st attempt at 1st presentation during the ARBA National Convention this fall, then shows will be REQUIRED to allow the colors that passed to show as "exhibition" animals which will be unable to receive awards like Best In Show, etc.

Many clubs will allow all of the colors to show that are on any of the 8 COD’s. Others will only allow the colors that passed at ARBA to show. Because of this, it is important to contact show secretaries in advance to see what they are allowing at their show.

Until the Lionheads pass a presentation - clubs are not required to allow them to show at all.
Also, if you are going to show your Lionhead please remember to bring the current working standard found here: http://www.pridelandsrabbitry.com/MuellerStandardAllColors26.htm so judges will hav something to judge them by.

As a 4-h animal: If and how you are allowed to show Lionheads varies throughout the country. Some places have a breed section for them and allow them to compete for Best In Show and others will only allow them to show in mix breeds for your first year in 4-H. If you do want to show your Lionhead at fair prior to signup contact whoever is in charge for the rabbit portion of your fair and find out if and how your allowed to show your Lionhead.
Breeding: They are relatively easy to breed and make excellent mothers but because many lines have had dwarfs crossed into them, it is possible to get "peanuts" in a litter. Does can have as little as one or two babies or as many as ten and raise them with no problem. The average is three to five kits per litter.

Recognized Colors: Lionheads are grouped by individual color when they are shown.

I am listing colors by the COD holders in line to present lionheads:

Current COD holder followed by those in line after her:

Theresa Mueller - Black, Blue, Black Tort & REW
Dawn Guth - Black, Siamese Sable, REW, Pointed White & Smoke Pearl
Lynn Schultz - Blue Point, Chestnut Agouti, Orange & Red (on a separate COD)
Lee A. Nevills - Chocolate, Chocolate Tortoise, Lilac, Opal & Seal
Regina Mayhugh- Black Otter, Blue Otter, Chocolate Otter, Lilac Otter, Sable Marten
Anita Moore - Black, Chestnut Agouti, Chocolate Agouti, Chinchilla, Squirrel
Kim Croak - Silver Marten group (all 4 shades), Otter group (all 4 shades), Chestnut Agouti, Lilac Tort & BEW
Marilyn Stevens - Blue, Blue Tort & Sable Point

SPECIAL NOTE: Once someone gets the breed passed by passing three presentations, all COD Holders in line behind them become "color COD" holders and their COD will drop down to 2 colors each. So while at this time Lionheads have 26 colors on CODs (per the lionhead club website) - that will drop dramatically once the breed passes.

Showroom Weights:

Sr. Bucks and Does: Over 6 mos. of age - 3 lbs. 12 ozs. maximum weight

Jr. Bucks and Does: Under 6 mos. of age - minimum 1 lb 10 ozs, may weigh up to 3 lbs 8 oz. May be bumped up to Senior category if above this weight limit

Breed Specific Disqualifications: Ears exceeding 3 1/2", Lack of mane, wool in the saddle area, lack of break between mane and flank wool.

Schedule of points: General Type - 40, Fur – 45 (35 mane, 10 coat), Color - 10, Condition - 5

Club: An official club will become recognized once the breed is recognized but the current club is:

North American Lionhead Rabbit Club (NALRC)
http://www.lionhead.us
$10 annual membership for single youth
$15 annual membership for single adult
$20 annual membership for 2 or more persons at one address

Also, would you like some pictures?