Loppy Earred Mom
Well-Known Member
Is it a bad thing to declaw a house rabbit?
Another one of my newbie questions
- Thread starter Loppy Earred Mom
- Start date
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Definitely.
I'd never wish that on a rabbit. Their claws aren't the problem forhouse rabbits. The biggest issue is their chewing and if you rip theirteeth out, they'll die.
There are ways to deal with their digging and their chewing.
Declawing is definitely not the answer. Rabbits can easily and quickly die from stress and pain.
Ask questions. If there's something the rabbit is doing, there's a wayto train the little one. We'll help as much as we can with answers.
Rabbits are smart, sensitive, and emotional. They respond to training and positive reinforcement, you just have to be patient.
-Carolyn
I'd never wish that on a rabbit. Their claws aren't the problem forhouse rabbits. The biggest issue is their chewing and if you rip theirteeth out, they'll die.
There are ways to deal with their digging and their chewing.
Declawing is definitely not the answer. Rabbits can easily and quickly die from stress and pain.
Ask questions. If there's something the rabbit is doing, there's a wayto train the little one. We'll help as much as we can with answers.
Rabbits are smart, sensitive, and emotional. They respond to training and positive reinforcement, you just have to be patient.
-Carolyn
Loppy Earred Mom
Well-Known Member
I was just curious I was watching a show onanimal planet and they were talking about declawing cats and becauseStitch constantly scratches my husband and she does it really bad tooshe got him real good and deep today he asked if it were possible. ITold him I would never declaw a cat and I wouldn't declaw a rabbit so Itold him I would ask on here so u guys can tell him how crazy he ishehe.
Loppy Earred Mom
Well-Known Member
I asked on another thread I think my stitch is confused but I not think anyone read it. So I'll ask it again here.
I noticed that in ur pictures and stuff that you guys do not use animalbedding and I know if ur vaccuuming them out or sweeping then for sureu aren't using bedding but some sort of rug or some kind of material.
I think Stitch is confused cause of her bedding and litter do you thinkit would be easier for her to catch on to the litter box thing if Ididn't have bedding? She sleeps in the litter box and poohs on herbedding or am I just stressing out over nothing?
I was hoping I could litter box train her then take the bedding awaybut maybe not having the bedding is better for the training I have noidea I can litter box a cat heck I even trained my cat to use thetoilet so I wouldn't have to clean her litter box anymore. But litterboxing a cat was just so much easier to do it seems I know it takestime but I might be adding to the confusion with the bedding.
Could use some of your guys wisdom on this one
I noticed that in ur pictures and stuff that you guys do not use animalbedding and I know if ur vaccuuming them out or sweeping then for sureu aren't using bedding but some sort of rug or some kind of material.
I think Stitch is confused cause of her bedding and litter do you thinkit would be easier for her to catch on to the litter box thing if Ididn't have bedding? She sleeps in the litter box and poohs on herbedding or am I just stressing out over nothing?
I was hoping I could litter box train her then take the bedding awaybut maybe not having the bedding is better for the training I have noidea I can litter box a cat heck I even trained my cat to use thetoilet so I wouldn't have to clean her litter box anymore. But litterboxing a cat was just so much easier to do it seems I know it takestime but I might be adding to the confusion with the bedding.
Could use some of your guys wisdom on this one
Correct the rabbit with a "NO!" Should the little one continue, pick him/her up and put him in his/her cage.
The way I have trained my rabbits is completely through positive andnegative reinforcent. When they're doing something bad, I say, "NOTucker!!" The minute he hears that, he pauses. I'll say "No." in a bitof a softer voice, but firm. He or Fauna at that point run from wherethey are getting into trouble, and I'll then say, "G'Boyyyy!" or"G'Giirrrll!"
Just as in litter training, they respond to positive reinforcement morethan negative. Negative scares and confuses them. Positivereinforcement encourages them to please. They want our acceptance. Giveit to them when they're good -- the minute they step off.
-Carolyn
Lop Earred Mom,
Many times, rabbits will make themselves comfortable in their litterbox or where they poop.
I'm careful of bedding because it is a catch-all for bacteria. If yourrabbit is urinating on the bedding, you could be in for troubles downthe line.
Personally, I'd remove the bedding and see if he/she trains to the litterbox.
-Carolyn
Loppy Earred Mom
Well-Known Member
Ok great I'll try w/o the bedding I dont want her getting bacteria stuff.
Stich really does work well with the NO thing she's doing great withresponding to it as far as chewing the carpet when I catch her doingit. And when she stops I give her Lots and loves pets and snuggles thenshe hops off on her merry little way
This is so odd I swear I typed this before but it dint show up hmm wierd
Stich really does work well with the NO thing she's doing great withresponding to it as far as chewing the carpet when I catch her doingit. And when she stops I give her Lots and loves pets and snuggles thenshe hops off on her merry little way
This is so odd I swear I typed this before but it dint show up hmm wierd
Most rabbits hate water. Tucker would make me get up before he'd stop his bad behavior.
I bought a watergun. When he was chewing on the rug, if he didn't heedwhen I said "NO!", he got squirted. He didn't know where it was comingfrom and finally, I found a method quicker than him.
You don't want to soak them, but you do want to stun them. A shot from a watergun does that usually.
You don't want them ingesting the carpet because their intestines aretoo small to work that through and you can't break it down withmedication. In most cases, if the rabbit isn't operated on for $1500+,the rabbit will die.
Don't let your rabbit dig or eat the carpet.
-Carolyn
showrabbits
Well-Known Member
Hi,
I am new here but have had rabbits for almost all of my life. I am also in college studing to be a wildlife biologist.
I would say bad idea on the declawing. Rabbits toes are not like catsor dogs, and surgery is harder on rabbits than it is on other animals.They just seem to give up sometimes. I guess it must go back to thefact that they are prey or on the bottom of the food chain. (sorrywildlife biologist soon to be here
)
Okay here are some tips that I have figured out for reducing thescratches. Trim the toenails. You shouldnt do this if you dont know howto. First have your vet or somebody who knows how to show you. If youtrim them too short than they can bleed alot. It is just like trimminga dogs or cats toenails. Depending on the trimmers that you use thetoenails may still be sharp after you trim them for a little whileuntil they get wore down.
Okay also the type of flooring that you use can help. If it has a safecage or a cage there is two types of flooring it may have. Solid orwired bottom. I think both is fine as long as you cover them with theproper stuff. I have flemish giants and english lops, they are bothheavy breeds of rabbits and I have found that my favorite type of cagesto use for me and my rabbits is the wire bottom. The wire bottom isnice because it makes it so that way my rabbits dont have to live rightin their bathroom, and keep them away from anything that may like tolive in their litter. Because they are heavy and the wire can causestress to their feet you should cover alot of the wire with something.I set up my cages so that way almost all of the cage floor is coveredwith something like drywall (okay if anybody is wondering I have donelots of research, including my own testing of componets of drywall,quizing our vet to the core, and my dad as well who owns a drywallcompany, I have used it for years and years and years now along withtons of rabbit raisers who haveused it long before I have.That is were I found out about it in the first place. It is up to youif you want to try it but I have found it to be completely safe, andcompletely packed full of fun for the rabbits to chew up, shreed up,and dig into, as well as lay on, and shape and make it just right forthem.) Ive also used for those bucks that spraythe toughplastic dinner trays that can be tossed out in the yard and sprayedwith the hose, and switched for yesterdays now sun dried very cleantray. I also like to use feed sacks and hay/straw. But the straw/haydoesnt wear down the nails like the drywall does, but they sure do havefun in it and love to make a nice bed in it. Okay the only part of mycage that the floors are open with wire is the spot where they go tothe bathroom, and where their bowl or water bottle is so that way theirfloor wont get wet, and then also a spot big enough for them to sit onor stretch completely out on in case they get hot and so that way theycan get air to their belly as well if they want to.
Okay the next thing I would suggest is maybe going to a rabbit showsometime. Be strong there may be rabbits that you want to take home!The people that show are always very help full, and can show you allsorts of way of holding a rabbit that way the rabbit feels safe andwont scratch trying to get up to your shoulder or down, and so that wayyou wont drop it as well. Dont take your rabbit to the show unless itis a show rabbit. You dont want your house rabbit to catch anything orpass anything like pasterilla that you dont know it has, or otherrabbits have. There is one way that I teach all of the four h-ers inour local rabbit club. It is kind of like carring a foot ball. You restthe rabbits feet on you belly and your fore arm like if your righthanded your right for arm, and then tuck the rabbits head (moreimportantly the rabbits eyes) under your upper arm almost in your armpit. The nose should stick out the back and then use your other handfor support where you else you need it. I like to put my other hand onthe rabbits back or side so that way there is no where for the rabbitto go. One of my teachers has a book with a rabbit xray in it and Icould tell that if you carry the rabbit in this manner it actualy putsalmost no stress on the rabbits back. I would practice this like withthe rabbit on the floor (grass,carpet or something soft) and on yourknees. Then pick it up. I wouldnt do this over and over again becauseyour rabbit can get grouchy. But worth practicing, may help with alotof those scratches if your rabbit feels more comfortable in your arms.Also another thing that you can try is take a pair of socks and cut outthe toes. Put it on your wrists. That can help too if you know you arein a situation where the rabbit will be upset and scratch.
I hope that this helps good luck. (just a few of my suggestions)
I am new here but have had rabbits for almost all of my life. I am also in college studing to be a wildlife biologist.
I would say bad idea on the declawing. Rabbits toes are not like catsor dogs, and surgery is harder on rabbits than it is on other animals.They just seem to give up sometimes. I guess it must go back to thefact that they are prey or on the bottom of the food chain. (sorrywildlife biologist soon to be here
)Okay here are some tips that I have figured out for reducing thescratches. Trim the toenails. You shouldnt do this if you dont know howto. First have your vet or somebody who knows how to show you. If youtrim them too short than they can bleed alot. It is just like trimminga dogs or cats toenails. Depending on the trimmers that you use thetoenails may still be sharp after you trim them for a little whileuntil they get wore down.
Okay also the type of flooring that you use can help. If it has a safecage or a cage there is two types of flooring it may have. Solid orwired bottom. I think both is fine as long as you cover them with theproper stuff. I have flemish giants and english lops, they are bothheavy breeds of rabbits and I have found that my favorite type of cagesto use for me and my rabbits is the wire bottom. The wire bottom isnice because it makes it so that way my rabbits dont have to live rightin their bathroom, and keep them away from anything that may like tolive in their litter. Because they are heavy and the wire can causestress to their feet you should cover alot of the wire with something.I set up my cages so that way almost all of the cage floor is coveredwith something like drywall (okay if anybody is wondering I have donelots of research, including my own testing of componets of drywall,quizing our vet to the core, and my dad as well who owns a drywallcompany, I have used it for years and years and years now along withtons of rabbit raisers who haveused it long before I have.That is were I found out about it in the first place. It is up to youif you want to try it but I have found it to be completely safe, andcompletely packed full of fun for the rabbits to chew up, shreed up,and dig into, as well as lay on, and shape and make it just right forthem.) Ive also used for those bucks that spray
the toughplastic dinner trays that can be tossed out in the yard and sprayedwith the hose, and switched for yesterdays now sun dried very cleantray. I also like to use feed sacks and hay/straw. But the straw/haydoesnt wear down the nails like the drywall does, but they sure do havefun in it and love to make a nice bed in it. Okay the only part of mycage that the floors are open with wire is the spot where they go tothe bathroom, and where their bowl or water bottle is so that way theirfloor wont get wet, and then also a spot big enough for them to sit onor stretch completely out on in case they get hot and so that way theycan get air to their belly as well if they want to. Okay the next thing I would suggest is maybe going to a rabbit showsometime. Be strong there may be rabbits that you want to take home!The people that show are always very help full, and can show you allsorts of way of holding a rabbit that way the rabbit feels safe andwont scratch trying to get up to your shoulder or down, and so that wayyou wont drop it as well. Dont take your rabbit to the show unless itis a show rabbit. You dont want your house rabbit to catch anything orpass anything like pasterilla that you dont know it has, or otherrabbits have. There is one way that I teach all of the four h-ers inour local rabbit club. It is kind of like carring a foot ball. You restthe rabbits feet on you belly and your fore arm like if your righthanded your right for arm, and then tuck the rabbits head (moreimportantly the rabbits eyes) under your upper arm almost in your armpit. The nose should stick out the back and then use your other handfor support where you else you need it. I like to put my other hand onthe rabbits back or side so that way there is no where for the rabbitto go. One of my teachers has a book with a rabbit xray in it and Icould tell that if you carry the rabbit in this manner it actualy putsalmost no stress on the rabbits back. I would practice this like withthe rabbit on the floor (grass,carpet or something soft) and on yourknees. Then pick it up. I wouldnt do this over and over again becauseyour rabbit can get grouchy. But worth practicing, may help with alotof those scratches if your rabbit feels more comfortable in your arms.Also another thing that you can try is take a pair of socks and cut outthe toes. Put it on your wrists. That can help too if you know you arein a situation where the rabbit will be upset and scratch.
I hope that this helps good luck. (just a few of my suggestions)
Loppy Earred Mom
Well-Known Member
U guys I gotta tell yas after my hubby read this post he has now cleared his mind of the declawing I told him it was bad!
I certainly understand where furniture has to be protected, however, wehave full control over the areas our animals have access to.
Believe me, I'm not a millionaire and I can't afford to replace thethings I have, but there are ways around controlling and protectingthem without having to go to extremes.
-Carolyn
