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Spot

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In a few weeks I am most likely going to be buying a Holland Lop.He will be housed in a wooden box(a hutch will be built eventually as a permanent home) which will be in a large chain linked dog cage.No dogs of course!Will this be ok?I also wanted to know if the rabbit would be able to escape through the chain link.Any help would be greatly appreciated:)
 
Hi there and welcome!

First, can I ask why you want to house the bunny outside? Not a lot of people know that they make great indoor pets. Rabbits are naturally very social animals and LOVE being a part of the family. Until I had my first rabbit, Basil, I had no clue rabbits could be housed indoors and even litter trained. I currently have 6 indoor rabbits!


If youreally want togo with outdoor housing, the dog cage will probably work but there are some things you will want to consider:

1. Are the holes in the chain big enough that your rabbit can fit through or that a predator can fit through?

2. Can something like an opossum, racoon, dog etc dig under the cage to get to your bunny (this just happened to two bunnies housed a local orchard by me..they died a horrible death and the fence was buried under the ground 2-3 feet)

3. Is there protection from flying predators like hawks, owls etc?

4. Are there hiding spots so the bunny can feel safe if there are loud noises, predators and get protection from the elements etc?

There are a lot of things to consider when housing a rabbit outside. I know I live in MI and the weather can get very hot in the summer and terribly cold in winter and I assume your weather in OH is the same.

I know others will have more suggestions, but these are a few to get you started.
I wish you all the best with your new friend!
 
Thanks,

There is actually concretet on the base of the cage so I don't have to worry about digging.Each chain link is about 2 1/2 inches in diameter so I don't think the bunny would be able to escape unless he was only a week or two old.My neighbor lets there rabbits run loose in their chain linked fence yard and some of them are only 2 week old babies and they dont try to escape at all.I would love to keep the rabbit in the house but I have a miniature pinscher that does not like other small furry animals.I would be afraid the rabbit would get killed from stress or get killed personally by my dog.The new rabbit will be living in a large wooden box like thing until I can get his hutch built.He will be allowed roam freely.I don't think I have to worry much about racoons,etc. because I live in a neighborhood with lots of houses around me and the last time I saw a racoon was when one got through the gate and it had rabies but it couldn't even climb a fence.That is the only time I have ever seen a racoon in or near my back yard.As for hawks,etc. my dogs keeps everything like that scared away.The rabbit would have an advantage though because a very large tree is next to the cagewhich cover most of it.It would ve very hard for a hawk to see him.
 
Welcome to RO! Nice to have another person here from Ohio. :wave:

I would caution that there is far more wildlife around than you are aware. Often, whole populations are living just under our noses, and we would never know it.

If your bun can get his face through the chain link, he can get his entire body through. Sounds crazy, but it's true :D. You may wish to look into getting a smaller mesh.

Predatory birds can come to land in the tree, and execute an attack from there. For your bun's safety, I suggest that you definitely have fencing over the top of the cage.

Finally,I'm remembering that you need to build a hutch with adequate insulation so that your bun is safe and warm throughout the winter. A double wall with insulation inside would be helpful, or build the hutch 2-3x the original size to accomodate more hay (insulating in winter).

I find that folks with outdoor buns must be very devoted to spending many hours out there with their bun, even on not-so-nice winter days. An outdoor bun would also benefit from having a spayed/neutered companion bun - someone to snuggle up with and play with.

If you can get a few pictures of your setup, I'm sure folks would have plenty of more input :) Take a peekhere if you need help posting photos :)

Again, welcome :)


 
My holland lop can get her head through a 2 inch NIC grid so you would have to buy some sort of smaller mesh to cover the fencing.

Other then that everything else sound about right with other suggestions.
 
My plans have changed some.The wooden box idea will stay(until the hutch is built of course)but it will have a door so I can keep the new bun in it.I guess you guys are right about predators and I'm not going to take a chance of letting the bun run freely and some sort of predator killing him/her.I was going to use chicken wire and wrap it around the bottom of the whole cage.It will come up around 1 foot from the bottom.I don't worry much about him/her escaping since I will be letting the bun out of it's home and I will supervise it very carefully.I am hoping to get a harness and practice walking the bun around the inside of the cage and eventually be able to walk him/her around the yard(actually the bun will be walking me.lol)Do these plans sound ok?
 
I would get something a little stronger then chicken wire. Bunny teeth can do some damage quickly.
 
I've never had any problem with rabbits and chicken wire before but he will be supervised when he is out of his hutch.(well it'll be hutch like till I can get the actual one built)I will give him a lot of things to chew on too.
 
Outdoor housing can be great if you take care to do it properly and are committed to really spending a lot of time out there.

Securing the dog run is a must. Instead of chicken wire, you might try hardware cloth (what I use on my chicken coop). It comes in 1/4 - 1/2 grids and is much stronger than chicken wire (hands down). It'll keep your rabbit in and reaching raccoon hands out) if you wrap a 24 inch strip around the outside bottom of the run and secure it. Do the same with the top of the run. You don't want it open. Opossum and raccoon are in every suburban and urban area. Just because you don't see them does not mean they're not there. Making a cover of chicken wire will be fine for the top. It will be enough to deter a persistent raccoon trying to find a way in. Just make sure to not leave holes that it can squeeze in through. I've usedmetal "C" rings to make chicken wire "blankets" for chicken run roofs. It's good that you have a cement floor.

Besides completely securing the run top, bottom and all around, you'll need to consider the basics - sun, draft, damp, heat, cold, ventilation, and sanitation.

What's your plan for the cold winters and hot summers?

Stuffing the hutch with the hay that your rabbit normally eats works as an excellent, edible insulation for your rabbit. It will make it's own burrow and hang out in there when it want privacy, warmth, and a dry place. You'll be suprised how well rabbit do in the cold and you'll probably see your rabbit out enjoying it more than one might think.

Rabbits can begin to stress when temperatures get to 85 degrees so you need to have a plan for cooling your rabbit. I prefer cooling the air around the rabbit as opposed to wetting ears or leaving frozen water bottles for it to lean again.One good way to cool the air aroundyour outdoor run is to string up a line of fine misters connected to awater hose. Don't place them so close to the rabbits play area that it soaks the rabbit. That is not the goal. You wantto mist the air. The mist will cool the air around the enclosure. Any breezes - evenwarm breezes will feel up to 20 degrees cooler inthe run (under the tree).

You'll also want to keep an outdoor thermometer in the run so you can keep tabs on the temps. I've used a remote thermometer from Target that allows me to know what the temp is from inside my house. Some of those types can be set to have an alarm go off once a certain temp is reached. Still, in summer, I visit weather.com daily to get weather predition highs for the following days to I can be plan accordingly to make sure I'm home to monitor the rabbits during the hottest parts of the day and do what I need to to keep them comfortable.

The tree should protect from the sun. I rabbit can do well under a tree but direct sun (heat) could kill it on a warm day. Give it protection from rain or damp. Keep its bedding clean and dry.

If you choose to close up your rabbits' enclosure, make sure there is very good ventilation.

What is your plan for sanitation? No matter the size of the enclosure, a rabbit have a clean environment to be in the best of health. It helps me to designate specific cleaning days.Cleaning twice a week is okay in this type of enclosure. Fyi, the fly reproductive cycle is every 5 days so cleaning twice a week like clock work will disrupt it. Still, there will be flies (there are always flies outdoors) so putting up a scent bait fly trap once a month or as often as neededwill help. Adding food grade DE to pelleted food (use very, very, little) will not only naturally deworm your rabbit of some parasites but kill any fly larva that hatch from eggseither in the rabbits run or the compost pile because it will be in your rabbit's droppings.

This might all sound like a lot to consider and do but once you get your "system" set up and goind, it can work out very well for both your and your rabbit. Just make sure that the area that you set up for your rabbit is one that you want to be in, too, because you're going to be spending a lot of time out there. If you realize, once you've set it up, that you don't enjoy being out there, make changes so that you do enjoy being there to spend time with your rabbit or explore ways that you can keep him inside safely (a whole 'nother ball game that can be very fun once you know how to do it).
 
I think I'm going to stick with chicken wire because my other rabbit has no problem with it and i'm on a budget(new aquarium)I will also be supervising him/her.As for covering the top of the cage,I don't know about that because the rabbit will locked in the hutch at night and I guarantee that nothing will get to him/her.In the summer I plan to cover the part of the cage where the hutch is with a tarp,etc.In the winter I plan to use straw as an insulation.I will clean the cage 2 times a week and spray the concrete down with water.My only concern is that the cage is in direct sunlight for a small part of the day but the hutch will have good venilation and him/her will have lots of fresh water.I've been saying hutch when I typed and I forgot that I will build the hutch later.His/her home will be like the upper part of a hutch but smaller until I can get the actual one built.
 
Yes Violet Crumble has helped me a lot.I have been saying that I was going to use chicken wire and i was meaning wire mesh.I saw it in another post and that reminded me about it.
 
Spot wrote:
My only concern is that the cage is in direct sunlight for a small part of the day

Whether this will be a problem or not will depend on the time of day and what season of the year the sunlight will hit it. Your rabbit will not turn into a Gremlin if it eats after midnight and is exposed to direct sunlight. (that's a joke) :biggrin2:

If light hits it during the summer morning, it might be fine. Sunlight on a late summer afternoon/evening can be horrible. I can't tell you what will be okay in your backyard, though. You'll have to figure that out and make changes or adjustments to your plan to fix any problems.
 

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