starting to rabbit proof

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erikamc

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Bunny goes in for her spay tomorrow (nervous mom!) and I will be taking the time to start to bunny proof her room (in anticipation of adding a second bunny). There will be much work to do and actual free run of the room will still be a ways off. A couple things I'm thinking of: the trim in the room is stained. I couldn't care less about it being chewed on, but if they chew on stained wood, would that be horribly bad? should I replace the trim with untreated wood? The lamp cord is covered with plastic guards. It takes her a while to get to the point I feel it should be replaced, but that is with supervised time (a couple hours) outside of the cage. Would a plastic guard last at least twelve hours for us to be able to catch it before they reach the dangerous parts? I have tried to find metal ones, but haven't been able to. I have also purchased child guards for the outlets (they cover the entire outlet and you can run a cord into them) has anyone used these? should I get something more substantial? Not sure if this next question should be elsewhere, but the second bunny is already decided on, unless someone adopts him first. What I have found online suggests taking the current bunny to meet the new bunny. Would this be safe? He isn't with other bunnys so is essentially quarantined. Also, should I have two cages set up, or would her being free range and him in a cage be sufficient?
 
Lots of various questions here...:) will try to take them each on....


but if they chew on stained wood, would that be horribly bad? should I replace the trim with untreated wood?

Ingesting stain would not be good. Simpler might be to just use a couple tac nails to put a 1 x 3 strip of pine wood in front of it. (I'll attach photo). Then, if you ever move you can remove the pine wood (which is fine for bunnies to chew) and either leave the original trim or replace it then.



Would a plastic guard last at least twelve hours for us to be able to catch it before they reach the dangerous parts?

Totally depends on the bunny. It may take a couple weeks after her spay, but she may not be as voracious a chewer after the spay. Providing her with more interesting things (tunnels, cardboard boxes, seagrass mats, etc) can keep her thoughts off the cords.

I have also purchased child guards for the outlets (they cover the entire outlet and you can run a cord into them) has anyone used these? should I get something more substantial?

Never saw a need to cover outlets. Probably anything will be fine (may not even be necessary).

Not sure if this next question should be elsewhere, but the second bunny is already decided on, unless someone adopts him first. What I have found online suggests taking the current bunny to meet the new bunny. Would this be safe?

It is routine for a rabbit rescue to have a current bunny meet other fixed bunnies to pre-screen for potential compatibility. I strongly urge you to not even attempt to pick out the 2nd rabbit yourself. That is really something that your current bunny must do. She may have zero interest or even intense hatred for the one you have chosen. It's best when bunny picks out her bondmate. (I'm assuming this is through a rabbit rescue. The advantage of doing that is that if one rabbit doesn't work out, they allow an exchange to ensure you wind up with a compatible pair.

Also, should I have two cages set up, or would her being free range and him in a cage be sufficient?

Females are especially territorial. It would be ill-advised to have her roaming the room and then trying to add him in -- whether or not he's in another cage. She would see him as an intruder and will likely fight him off.

If she has not had free roam yet, then don't let her start. You do not want her to claim that territory. Far better for them both to be introduced to the area at the same time -- so it is neutral.

You will need two cages during the bonding process. Ideally, you will have a separate, larger cage that they can both share after they are already bonded.

Check here to read up more about the bonding process. You will want to know all you can before you begin the process. A wrong move in the beginning can sabotage the bond.

baseboards.jpg
 
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good to know! It is not through a bunny rescue, it is through a dog/cat rescue group that I'm associated with. The posted a 6 month old male they recently got in, we had been talking about getting a second bunny to keep her company and I think he seems like a perfect type (same size, not far off in age and male). She has currently has supervised free range, an hour-or two in the morning and an hour or two before bed. not enough attention I know, one reason why we want to get her a friend. My biggest concern with her is, she's never really been around another bunny. Hand raised from 9 days old. I'm ok with pulling the trim off to replace with pine board. If I ever sold this house, the crap that is in there would go anyway. one reason why I wouldn't care if it got chewed to hell. PS, your bunny in the background looks like my bunny's twin.
 
oh my god, that link is awesome! far more informative than anything I have come across!! Thank you so much!
 
Happy to help!
Trying to pre-guess how one rabbit will be with another is impossible. I don't think yours will be at any disadvantage with her history though. They are all soo very different. A single rabbit can instantly fall in love with one rabbit while absolutely hating another one. No one knows why they are ok with one and not another.

The pair in the photo is an example. Sapphire (the white one with gray markings) was part of a bonded pair when I got her. After her bondmate died, she totally rejected two other males before deciding she liked the one in photo. The first one she rejected was oh so sweet to her, even groomed her at the rescue, but she was a mean witch back to him.

The second male she rejected was actually the brother of the one she eventually accepted. She was a particularly choosy bunny!!
 
Just wondering how old the house is--back in my day, there was lead in all the paint and everything was insulated with asbestos.

It is an older house, while it does have asbestos siding, there is no lead paint. not sure what it is insulated with in the walls though. If I had to guess, based on how poorly insulated it seems to be, I'd say nothing. I took the time while she was getting spayed to rip up the carpet, pull out all pointy bits, and lay down peel and stick carpet tiles. I still have to cut pieces for the edges of the floor, but as her activity is restricted for at least the next 10 days, I don't have to rush too much on that.
 

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