Some questions...

[hasek39]

Whelp, I finally got off my butt and pushed past my innate characteristic of paralysis by analysis.

Yesterday I started getting essentials and toys for a new bunny, 1st one. I got some hay, pellets, litter, pan, stuff like that. This a.m. I was happy with my wire cube crate design and ordered the pieces parts for that.

**Edit add* I also filled out and submitted my adoption application.

In all this, some questions popped up.

How much will a 5 pound 2.5 year old bunny go through in hay in a week. Maybe a better way to ask that is roughly how many weeks will 10 lbs last?

Rabbit bedding and litter is the same? So I lay how much litter in the litter pan? Then I put the hay on top of that on one side of the box. The small amount of food pellets compared to hay, as well as the water bowl go in a separate area of the cage?

I need a carrier. Will the soft one be okay or would that depend on the bunny and not knowing at this point, would I be better getting a hard one? Will an average cat or small dog sized carrier be okay in regards to size for short trips for a 5 lbs bunny?

Thank you.

 

[Blue eyes]

Great for filling out that adoption application! That's one step closer!

Bedding and litter is usually the same thing. Some "beddings" like crinkled paper bedding doesn't do much for odor absorbency but is sometimes used in litter boxes as "litter." The main thing to differentiate here is that there should not be any loose bedding or litter on the main floor of the cage or bunny may get confused as to where to potty. Having litter in a box and topped with hay, no bedding (or litter) on rest of cage floor is the way to go.

How much of the litter to put in the tray depends on the type of litter being used. The pelleted newspaper litter like Yesterdays News (unscented) should be layered an inch or two thick. The wood pellets, on the other hand, though they look identical, are much more absorbent and only need to be half as thick (or less) for the same results. You'll get the hang of what works best for you (and your rabbit and your litter) as you go.

The water and pellet bowls can go wherever you like. With adult rabbits, I find that they eat their small portion of pellets as soon as offered. That means that the pellet bowl sits empty for 24 hours a day -- less the 5 minutes it takes to consume the pellets. For water, I prefer bowls that twist onto a clamp that is attached to the cage. These cannot be tipped or spilled.

Trying to guess how long hay will last is near impossible. Too many variables-- bunny's preference, how many greens or treats, how choosey bunny is, how much gets kicked out or stomped down (acceptable loss amount). All of these will vary per bunny. I buy in bulk so that I don't have to give a second thought to "wasted hay." I realize that may not help much for your planning, but some things you'll need to learn as you go. Best way to guess is to figure roughly your rabbit's body size per day in hay quantity (not weight).

Hard-sided carriers are safest. The cloth ones could eventually be chewed through by a persistent rabbit. Rabbits feel safer in smaller spaces so you don't need a large one. The following link from my website explains detail on what to do the day you bring bunny home. Included in that link is another link that explains how to safely use a carrier for a rabbit.
Bringing Your Rabbit Home

If you have the means to store a full bale of hay, it is a super cheap way to go. Buying a bale and throwing half away (for lack of room) is still going to save money over bagged hay. "Bale" apparently has different meanings in different parts of the country, so the following photo is what I mean by "bale."

I'd love to see your plans for a cube cage. I had a few such cages in years past. The following is a grainy photo but shows one I had awhile back. Be sure you include plenty of doorways for easy access.

Here are those bowls I like to clip on:
(photos aren't loading at the moment... will add later)

 

[Mariam+Theo]

My 2.5-year-old, 5 lb Mini Rex goes through 50lbs of Timothy hay in 6-8 months (he tends to eat more in the fall/winter). I suggest buying hay in bulk instead of buying 10 lb bags. I get 50 lbs of hay for $22. Here is the hay I buy (you can also get it on Chewy for $8 more): https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/p...-timothy-grab-go-compressed-bale?cm_vc=-10005

I suggest using pine pellets for litter, instead of bedding because they are cheaper, more absorbent, last longer, and smell good. I change Theo's litter box weekly and go through one $6 bag every 6 months. I like this link when it comes to litter training, and setting up a litter box: Litter Training
Here are the Pine Pellets I buy: Tractor Supply Pine Pellet Stall Bedding, 40 lb. at Tractor Supply Co.

Your rabbit should be getting 1/4 cup of Timothy based pellets every day. The food and water bowl can be put in a different area of the cage.

I like using small/medium hard-sided cat carriers for Theo. He feels safe and he can't chew through them.

I would also, just like Blue eyes, love to see your cube cage.

 

[hasek39]

Thank you both so much.

Blue Eyes, was the hay pic the same one as you have on your "Odor-Free Home" page? Thank you for those links, very helpful information on your site. Your statement about physical body size per day of hay as a rough guesstimate helps greatly.

Mariam, thank you also for pointing me towards Tractor Supply. I have one near me. From reading both Chewy and TSs reviews, I will continue leaning toward Small Pet Select for the hay. This is assuming that Luna is agreeable to it. Not only are almost all of the reviews good/great, that is the type of company I like to support. I will maybe get a bag of the TS stuff to check it out and/or as backup. It seems very inconsistent based on the reviews. Back to the Small Pet Select. My thoughts on the dog food I choose to use are the same thoughts as the bunny food; I'll eat Alpo before I give it to my dog. Meaning my creatures will be given high quality even if it means me having to eat low grade dog food so I can afford high quality for them. Please don't read into that in my meaning you all don't care for your bunnies, that's not my intent at all.

As for the cage, that was what my biggest paralysis by analysis was. I could've spent another week or two until I came up with something I was happy with... maybe. This a.m., I chucked all the designs, none of which I liked and decided to simply add an additional 28 x 28 x 28 cube to the lower right of the below. I'd imagine you all have seen this before. I also will have an extra 20 or so panels to expand or change things in the future.

 

[Blue eyes]

You're welcome!
Is the above cube cage one that you are copying or one that you have already made? If you don't mind the suggestions, I'd consider ditching the ramps altogether. A rabbit can easily hop up a level. Ramps just waste space. With ramps out, you can create larger upper levels for more lounging room.

Yes, on the hay bale photo. It is on my website, so you've seen it. I get hay from local feed stores or directly from the hay grower. I know they're fresh. I know not everyone is able to get or store a bale though.

If you've been on the website, then you may have also seen the cube cage. I'll post it here again so you can see how it is with no ramps and the levels each can have more space.

 

[Mac189]

I agree with @Blue eyes , although I think it is also worth mentioning that you may need a cover for the habitat. More athletic rabbits could easily jump from the top level and out, although not all will necessarily try, it's an important consideration to keep your new friend safe and your books in one piece!

 

[zuppa]

Thank you both so much.

Blue Eyes, was the hay pic the same one as you have on your "Odor-Free Home" page? Thank you for those links, very helpful information on your site. Your statement about physical body size per day of hay as a rough guesstimate helps greatly.

Mariam, thank you also for pointing me towards Tractor Supply. I have one near me. From reading both Chewy and TSs reviews, I will continue leaning toward Small Pet Select for the hay. This is assuming that Luna is agreeable to it. Not only are almost all of the reviews good/great, that is the type of company I like to support. I will maybe get a bag of the TS stuff to check it out and/or as backup. It seems very inconsistent based on the reviews. Back to the Small Pet Select. My thoughts on the dog food I choose to use are the same thoughts as the bunny food; I'll eat Alpo before I give it to my dog. Meaning my creatures will be given high quality even if it means me having to eat low grade dog food so I can afford high quality for them. Please don't read into that in my meaning you all don't care for your bunnies, that's not my intent at all.

As for the cage, that was what my biggest paralysis by analysis was. I could've spent another week or two until I came up with something I was happy with... maybe. This a.m., I chucked all the designs, none of which I liked and decided to simply add an additional 28 x 28 x 28 cube to the lower right of the below. I'd imagine you all have seen this before. I also will have an extra 20 or so panels to expand or change things in the future.

Looks good, however I#d go with 4 sections in the base (like 4x2) because 3x2 sections it's basically standard petshop cage size and it's not much honestly. Rabbit needs main floor for binkies etc and you are going to have litterbox on the first level as well it will take at least one section. So not long enough imo.

Also, your rabbit will pee and poo and will mess with hay and (possibly) with litter. It is very rare that you get a rabbit who is already religiously uses their litterbox. So since you have soft floor on the first level though great for their fluffy feet but also they like to pee on soft and it will be more difficult to remove urine and its smell from carpeting. I would go with lino (textured) on first level or something easy to clean and fast to dry. It has to be larger than walls so your rabbit can't reach ends because some rabbits like chewing ends and it is not only esthetical problem but can cause gut blockage which is very dangerous. Same with all ends, they need to be hided. Some rabbits aren't chewers and would have no problems with that, but you never know.

I generally agree that ramps are not necessary I removed mine and they easily jump next level I made some shelves so they can use them as steps, but also I had rabbits they liked to pee in the corner where ramp touches ground and it got all soaked in urine quickly so I fixed it higher to the wall first and removed it after. The only reason I liked it because my ramps were wooden and my rabbits had some extra chewing exercise so were never bored. Since one of my rabbit chewed holes in plastic and I was horrified I don't know how he survived honestly but I've changed everything what they can possibly chew on to real wood. And it works great because chewing is good for their teeth and they like to chew on things that not given for chewing but like finding something forbidden and work on it, wooden ramps look exactly like they were not for chewing, I also added a few wooden boards and made some corner inserts so they can chew on.

If you still want them I would suggest hiding carpeting ends or make it totally safe to chew, like this ramp is safe and gives enough grip as well



Also agree about the top it would be best to make this hapitan safe and unescapable, so I would go with 4x2(3) sections for the first level, and in two levels would be imo enough but if you want the third it's fine, also levels can be not necessarily same size. Their main floor with solid floor would be important as large as possible.

I forgot to mention that it would be handy to make like guards like 7-8 inch high all around the first level, because all hay and if they will make mess everything will be on your nice floor/carpet, some rabbits are diggers and some like to pee outside their cage, they can lift their butt high enough and just pee outside, I have a few fine-peeing rabbits oh my.

I liked this wooden floor condo but I would make borders higher and also toilet on the third floor doesn't look right to me. I like the size, 4x2 sections and that levels are higher than one section, it is spacious enough and 2nd/3rd levels also have lots of floor.



I would also give more room on the second or third level, like second level could have narrow shelves all over perimeter (remember they can drop poos from there as well) and third level more floor like in this photo (not mine)

 

[zuppa]

Here's another example with borders but again I'd make them much higher.



As I said already lino would be best, like this textured so it would be no problem for their fluffy feet

 

[zuppa]

Honestly, I would cover the whole back and at least one side with something like plywood or cardboard or something, or would even make back and sides fully wooden. It would look less like cage and also you wouldn't have any mess behind your condo, there's always something like occasional poos (or pees too), some hay fallen behind and some wool when they are molting.

This is good idea not ideal because it is just very new and looks lovely but not very practical, but I like that back is wooden and front panel can be removed for day time so it doesn't look like prison.

 

[Mariam+Theo]

Mariam, thank you also for pointing me towards Tractor Supply. I have one near me. From reading both Chewy and TSs reviews, I will continue leaning toward Small Pet Select for the hay. This is assuming that Luna is agreeable to it. Not only are almost all of the reviews good/great, that is the type of company I like to support. I will maybe get a bag of the TS stuff to check it out and/or as backup. It seems very inconsistent based on the reviews. Back to the Small Pet Select. My thoughts on the dog food I choose to use are the same thoughts as the bunny food; I'll eat Alpo before I give it to my dog. Meaning my creatures will be given high quality even if it means me having to eat low grade dog food so I can afford high quality for them. Please don't read into that in my meaning you all don't care for your bunnies, that's not my intent at all.

I totally understand! I love Small Pet Selects hay, I just cannot afford it since. I have had no issues with the hay from TS, but I can tell some other people have.

 

[hasek39]

Is the above cube cage one that you are copying or one that you have already made?

I planned on copying that one with the addition of a 28 x 28 x 28 cube to the bottom right. However with you all informing me I do not need ramps, that will allow me to go forward with something more along my original thoughts. See below in my response to Zuppo.

although I think it is also worth mentioning that you may need a cover for the habitat.

Excellent point Mac. Actually that is one of the reasons I had in mind for getting extra cube panels; in case a cover is needed.

 

[hasek39]

Wow @zuppa , I greatly appreciate your detailed help. I really like the one you attached which I also have attached so you know which one I am referring to.

- Is there a hole on the back left corner for access from the 1st level to 2cnd?
- Would you forego the ramp on this design as well?
- With the way this is built, the wood wouldn't be an chew issue or at least minimized other than the guards?

If I opt to go with vinyl flooring rather than straight up wood, my flooring where the cage will go is on the stuff pictured below. It has a bit of texture but it's minimal. How much texture is appropriate? My pooch learned not to go full speed on it. I do have a bunch of extra of these tiles, they were here when I bought the house.

Great news, the rescue called my mutt vet to see if I take care of her, called my referral, and approved my app and took the adoption fees. I've been talking with the V.P. of the rescue and today she got some info on Luna for me. She's already been spayed (thankfully), she has no bad habits other than normal bunny stuff like chewing, and she's a pretty chill bunny. I would think the same goes with bunnies as dogs, a new environment and Luna might behave differently. I hope I'm doing everything right to make her transition as seamless as possible. I've been reading so much I don't know where I read this, but the hardest part will be leaving her alone the first few days.

Thank you all again so much. Your help is invaluable. I'm stressing if I am doing the right things for her and your help is of comfort to me (and her even if she doesn't know it).

 

[helena]

For my bunny's enclosure i like to use carpet squares... the kind they use in commercial buildings. Since bunnies like to have control of themselves (who doesn't ) I would make sure that their flooring has traction. Bunster doesn't like wood floor because her feet slide a little. If you have a dense rug that would work too. Make sure its not a prickly one though. Rugs are great because you can shake them out easily.

 

[Blue eyes]

If I opt to go with vinyl flooring rather than straight up wood, my flooring where the cage will go is on the stuff pictured below. It has a bit of texture but it's minimal. How much texture is appropriate? My pooch learned not to go full speed on it. I do have a bunch of extra of these tiles, they were here when I bought the house.

I've been reading so much I don't know where I read this, but the hardest part will be leaving her alone the first few days.

Thank you all again so much. Your help is invaluable. I'm stressing if I am doing the right things for her and your help is of comfort to me (and her even if she doesn't know it).

Great news on the rescue response!

Each rabbit is different on the level of traction with which they are comfortable. Some are fine on slick tiles, others have a hard time even on lino. They won't be running inside a cube cage so having lino on lower level is just fine. I wasn't sure what you were asking re: vinyl. Were you asking about inside the cage?

The 2 grid by 4 grid cage that zuppa showed and the one I showed are almost identical in layout. Mine has lino on the floor level but carpet sitting on grids on the upper levels. Zuppa's had wood for each level. Lino/vinyl could go on top of the wood (but the edges of the vinyl/lino would have to go under the wood borders to prevent chewing access).

Leaving her alone for the first couple days is (understandably) difficult, but will be best in the long run. It allows her time to acclimate to her new cage, claim that new cage as her territory, and get accustomed to the new environment as far as new sounds, smells, activity. You can certainly talk to her during the time, of course.