Rabbit kit care, need help/advice

[SunnieBunnie Rabbitry]

I agree with Peg.

It happens with nearly every litter I have too. As long as they look and feel healthy, there's nothing to worry about.

BUT, if they start LOOKING like they're starving - real thin & boney... then I would worry.

Good Job! They sound happy and comfortable

 

[Akkatia]

Well, first you need a nest box about 7 inches wide, 13 inches long, and 7 inchestall. Don't worry, I know how to do this kind of stuff. I have baby rabbits at least once a month, if not more, because I'm a Dutch show breeder. Well, once you have a nest box, put about two inches of bedding at the bottom of the box and two inches of hay on top of that. Make a little nest in the middle of the hay and place the kits in it. If you're lucky, the mother still might pull her fur out. See, when rabbits have kits, they'll rip their fur out to keep their babies warm. If she does or doesn't you still need a heat lamp. place a heat lamp over the cage for them. After your done messing with everything, get a cotton ball and some vanilla extract and smear it on all the kits' foreheads, and then smear it on the mother's nose. Then she won't be able to smell you. At seven weeks old, you can sell them. By nine weeks old, you need to get rid of all of them before they start reproducing again.

You CANNOT put doe and buck rabbits together EVER. It doesn't matter what month or season it is, it just doesn't work that way. They breed so rapidly. It takes on average thiry-one days for a rabbit to give birth, and when they give birth, they are able to be bred again, although this is very stressing to the rabbit, and it couldn't be good for it. If you're not a breeder, and you don't want to be, thatn DON'T PUT DOES AND BUCKS TOGETHER!! Spay and neuter them if that's what you want to do.

 

[SunnieBunnie Rabbitry]

Akkatia wrote:

Well, first you need a nest box about 7 inches wide, 13 inches long, and 7 inchestall. Don't worry, I know how to do this kind of stuff. I have baby rabbits at least once a month, if not more, because I'm a Dutch show breeder. Well, once you have a nest box, put about two inches of bedding at the bottom of the box and two inches of hay on top of that. Make a little nest in the middle of the hay and place the kits in it. If you're lucky, the mother still might pull her fur out. See, when rabbits have kits, they'll rip their fur out to keep their babies warm. If she does or doesn't you still need a heat lamp. place a heat lamp over the cage for them. After your done messing with everything, get a cotton ball and some vanilla extract and smear it on all the kits' foreheads, and then smear it on the mother's nose. Then she won't be able to smell you. At seven weeks old, you can sell them. By nine weeks old, you need to get rid of all of them before they start reproducing again.

You CANNOT put doe and buck rabbits together EVER. It doesn't matter what month or season it is, it just doesn't work that way. They breed so rapidly. It takes on average thiry-one days for a rabbit to give birth, and when they give birth, they are able to be bred again, although this is very stressing to the rabbit, and it couldn't be good for it. If you're not a breeder, and you don't want to be, thatn DON'T PUT DOES AND BUCKS TOGETHER!! Spay and neuter them if that's what you want to do.

Okay, let's not jump the gun here...

He said in his original post, the kits in this litter are already about 2wks with their eyes open... you and I BOTH know that once their eyes open, it's hard to keep them in the box. He stated earlier that he does not know the breeds of the rabbits... so I'm going to say it's safe to assume they're "average" size - about the size of a New Zealand - if that's the case, the dimensions of the box you provided are too small... He'll need about 1ft wide by 1 1/2 feet deep by 9 inches to 1ft tall.

He's did not breed these rabbits purposefully and unfortunately was misinformed about winter breedings - it is not his fault. We're just trying toprepare him for the real possibility of another impending litter that she very well may be carrying. He is now aware of the previous misinformation and does not need a lecture, but rather guidance for his current situation. He has taken the first RESPONSIBLE step by asking for help and advice here... instead of just sitting on his hands and takes what comes at him without a thought or care. I applaud him for this and wish there were more people like him out there whoactually want to learn from mistakes or misshaps to prevent it from happening again.

I STRONGLY would advise AGAINST using the heat lamp for the main reason that it is the biggest cause of loss of litters due to accidents. It's too easy for the heat lamp to fall on the kits burning them, or it being placed too close and scalding them. Not to mention the risk of fire hazzard when unattended. If mom does her job right, the kits will be warm enough on their own together under her fur and in the bedding. Please, Please trust me on this.

As far as the Vanilla - it's not necessary... unless it is a very skiddish doe who has lost previous litters due to handling &/or other issues. I've never had to hide my scent on litters - even immediately after their birth, and even for new does to my herd or first-timers.

Spay & Neuters aren't always within budget for most people who own rabbits. And they don't have to be fixed in order to prevent litters. As long as they are housed separately and have alternating out of cage play time... it won't be an issue. Plus, I think it is up to him on what he wants to do with the babies... he doesn't have to sell them or get rid of them if he doesn't want to. There are some great links and topics on this forum to help him tell bucks from doe's. If he needs more help deciphering, I'm sure he'll ask.

So let's not go jumping down people's throats, okay? I'm sure we've all been in his shoes before - at least I know I have.

 

[Gary17]

Thanks for comming to my defense sunniebunnie

 

[TinysMom]

First of all - I'd like to remind folks that Gary came here for help because he had been given misinformation before (if I remember right). He's trying to do what is best for his rabbits.

Secondly, I want to point out that each breeder is going to do some things differently. Some breeders will use vanilla - others won't. Some breeders will use a heat lamp (or a heating bad set on low) - others don't.

The vanilla trick is great IF you have a skittish doe that seems to be upset about you touching her rabbits. Some breeds I have seen also tend to be more skittish than others. Some rabbits are just more skittish than others.

So Gary - you basically face the decision that every breeder faces....and that is...

"Out of all the information available - what do I feel I need to do for this doe and this litter?"

I've had does where I've removed the nestbox the first few days (till the baby's eyes were open) because the does were so aggressive. I've had other does that were great and the babies are fine with them.

It's going to be a matter of taking all the information and breaking it down and deciding what you feel is most appropriate for your doe.

However, I think that the fact that your doe pulled fur and successfully raised this first breed this far - shows that she can keep them warm...you may need to help with extra hay or whatever - but if she is going to have another litter...I think she'll be ok.

Finally - I really want to commend you for finding out what is and isn't correct information. I hope we've really been of help AND encouragement to you. Mistakes happen....its what we do after them that matters the most (in my opinion)!

Peg

 

[TinysMom]

Bumping this topic to see how the babies are doing!

Peg