One bunny or try for bonded sibling pair?

[goldfinch]

I am considering having one or two bunnies and need help weighing these options. The plan is to house them indoors, but in the event that this doesn’t work out they would would be house outside in a nice, secure hutch and run. This is where a second bunny would be nice, but I’m also worried about one rabbit being lonely and bored during the day without people around for company. Is this a concern, or can rabbits cope with their humans being away for many hours at a time just like cats a dogs?

I’m looking at mini plush lops for temperament and low shedding. My options are to get one buck, or a buck and doe sibling pair, or two sisters. The buck would definitely be neutered and the doe(s) might be. I have no tolerance for spraying and this would be one of the reasons to move outdoors. Is this less of an issue if the buck is neutered around 4 months? If the buck is super relaxed and cuddly and easy going now at 3 months is that all going to change? I’m considering combining a just neutered at 4 months of age buck with an 8 week old doe sibling from another litter, but they’d be socialized together from the time she could be sexed. Or just do two 8 week old sisters. Or I could just do the buck minus a companion, and add one down the road should he appear bored and lonely.

I don’t want drama. I don’t want spraying. I don’t want a lonely bunny.

How much does temperament in a baby determine how they might react to siblings as they mature? If they’re both very chill before puberty, might they still be easy going during and after? How much can you prevent those bad behaviours from ever happening if you have them neutered and/or spayed as early as possible?

 

[WhiteBunnyEcho]

I would definitely recommend getting two rabbits. The rabbits hide their feelings well they are companion animals and need to have other rabbits around. It’s kind of like how a human needs other humans to cope, even though we love our dogs, for say, we can’t communicate fully. It’s the same for a rabbit they can’t communicate to us completely and aren’t 100% happy unless they have another rabbit companion.

I would suggest getting one male and one female and keeping them separate until your buck is neutered to avoid any unwanted litters. I neutered one of my bucks at 5 because I couldn’t deal with the spraying anymore. The spraying stopped after about six weeks post surgery and his litter habits have been excellent since then. But I’ve heard that sometimes after the spraying starts, even getting them neutered won’t help. So I would definitely recommend getting him neutered as soon as possible.

it may be best to start off by getting the buck until he’s neutered and then adding another bunny, however, I wouldn’t recommend an eight week old due to the size difference.

 

[goldfinch]

I would definitely recommend getting two rabbits.

Thank you for all of this advice. I will book him in to be neutered at 4 months and hopefully will be able to avoid any spraying. I haven’t had a rabbit since I was a kid, but I remember rabbit pee being extra bad smelling. And then I read stories about rabbits spraying their humans, and that’s just unacceptably gross.

I’m hoping then that if I bring him home at 4 months with a 2 month old sibling from another litter, that the size difference won’t be too great. I’m also hoping to not need to rush into having the female spayed.

Here are my choices, and I want to make sure option 2 will work well:

Option 1 is no companion.

Option 2 is to get a younger sister. Buck would be 4 months and doe would be 8 weeks, and would be kept together from the time she is sexed. My worry is making sure the buck is neutered quickly and there’s no chance of pregnancy.

Option 3 is getting a companion later on. But it’s not always easy to find mini plush lops that are older than 8 weeks, so they’d need to be separated until the new one is larger in size.

 

[WhiteBunnyEcho]

Option 4: get a younger sister and keep them separate until buck is old enough to be neutered???

then you can bond with them yourself before bonding them to each other.

There’s just always the chance of the unwanted litter. And you don’t want him mounting her all the time because he’s so hormonal not being neutered yet.

that’s just my thoughts of course

 

[goldfinch]

Option 4: get a younger sister and keep them separate until buck is old enough to be neutered???

ha! Yes. This makes sense. I should have added that I won’t be bringing them home until he is 4 months old and he will be neutered right away at that point. They’d be brought home at the same time. So you’re saying just get both rabbits but don’t put them together until 4-6 weeks after he’s neutered even though the female would be 8-12 weeks at that point? I don’t want him harassing her but I’d figured the risk of pregnancy in a doe so young would be highly unlikely.

 

[WhiteBunnyEcho]

Ohhh I see! That makes more since

 

[John Wick]

I've copy and pasted some things from your post to make things easier for me:

I have no tolerance for spraying and this would be one of the reasons to move outdoors.
- Both males and females can spray, in case you didn't know.

Is this (spraying) less of an issue if the buck is neutered around 4 months?
- Potentially? The less time a rabbit has with its hormones at their height starting at the puberty/hormonal growth period, I suppose the less time it has to express those more hormone-driven behaviors. That being said, a rabbit (male or female) can start spraying whenever hormones start to impact them, which can be before or after 4 months of age. Some rabbits will spray, some won't. Also, following a neuter/spay, note that some rabbits will continue being in a bit of a 'crazed' state for up to a couple weeks/months afterwards as the hormones settle.

If the buck is super relaxed and cuddly and easy going now at 3 months is that all going to change?
- Maybe. Some rabbits get very influenced by puberty and suddenly become more 'aggressive'/hormonally-expressive than others. It really depends on the rabbit. One could say that it is less likely for a rabbit who is already mellow to turn 180 due to puberty, but the possibility is still there. I think after a spay/neuter and the recovery period, it is more so the rabbit's environment which dictates their demeanor, in broad strokes.

I’m considering combining a just neutered at 4 months of age buck with an 8 week old doe sibling from another litter, but they’d be socialized together from the time she could be sexed. Or just do two 8 week old sisters. Or I could just do the buck minus a companion, and add one down the road should he appear bored and lonely.
- Regardless of your choice, make sure to be aware that you cannot put two rabbits together and guarantee them to get along automatically, whether or not they are related, grew up together, etc.. If they have grown up together, there is probably a better chance the bonding process will be smoother, but it is not absolute.

Bonds which include a baby rabbit (i.e. before puberty), or "baby bonds" are not the same as the lifelong formal "bonded pair" you read about online. Baby bonds are common because, as young, not-yet-hormonal rabbits, they tend to be agreeable with others, like their siblings of the same age; however, once puberty occurs, behaviors that come from being territorial and wanting to mate can emerge and this can break a baby bond due to sudden chasing, fighting, humping, etc.. Again, there are cases where baby rabbits grow up together and end up fine through their lifespan, but there are a large number of times that has not been the case, in which one or both rabbits (typically recommended for it to be both, since one being hormonal will make bonding more difficult) are fixed, given time to recover, and then you go through a more formal bonding process, which includes introductions in neutral territory and strategies to get them accustomed to living in each other's scent, such as swapping pens, litterboxes, and toys.

I know people have different and valid views about bonding, so you can definitely also internalize other's opinions regarding adopting siblings, keeping them together, how to approach bonding, etc.. Ultimately, every rabbit pair will be different.

I don't want drama.
- Unsure what classifies as "drama", but rabbits will chew. Rabbits will destroy. Rabbits will poop a ton. These are natural behaviors that cannot be trained out of a rabbit, so it is the owner's responsibility to find ways to redirect the chewing, digging, and pooping energy to means that fit your lifestyle and expectations.

 

[goldfinch]

Thanks for your detailed reply John Wick!
Re: drama, mostly I don’t want to have rabbits decide to try to kill each other one day out of the blue. It would be completely contrary to the point of trying for a bonded pair if we end up needing to keep them in separate enclosures if not rooms, and have two lonely and bored rabbits and not just one. If this is a likely outcome, it would be better to have one rabbit and provide other kinds of enrichment. I just don’t know what would be adequate considering how social rabbits are by nature.

re: personality changes with age, I am fine with some naughty behaviour at puberty. All animals go through some bad behaviour. It would just be difficult to get a family pet that starts out very relaxed and cuddly and then have him turn aloof or aggressive, spray the house or the people, etc. That would be grounds for moving outside in my books.

re: females can spray too. Yes, I know but it seems most likely with an intact male from what I understand. I had a spayed senior female cat spray one because she didn’t like the cat we were looking after. It happens.

So I guess my real question should be to avoid the undesirable stuff should I get a make or a female and am I crazy to try to bond a pair?

 

[John Wick]

You could adopt an already bonded pair from a rescue actually.

 

[goldfinch]

I have looked at that option too. I’m really inclined to a text-type coat though. I have always been a bit allergic to rabbits, but haven’t had the usual reaction to this fur type. The problem is that most of the rabbits at local shelters don’t have the Rex coat. I’m also looking for a very docile and cuddly rabbit because my kids will be bummed if they end up with unsocialized or timid rabbits that scratch and squirm and don’t want to be held. I’ll investigate this option more though, because you’re right about it being easier and it would also cost less in the end when factoring in the cost to spay/neuter.

 

[John Wick]

I personally have never had a rex, but I would suggest 'testing' your allergy out a bit by volunteering at a shelter or rescue perhaps. Two thoughts come up for me: 1) you may be allergic to a certain type of hay, rather than rabbits (they are often together, so often conflated) and 2) rabbits have big sheds 2-3 times a year, so it's possible rex fur may still trigger something significant if it is during a molt period and fur is really being shed. Molts can last for... ages. Almost seem never-ending, speaking dramatically with my frustrations in mind, haha.

 

[WhiteBunnyEcho]

I’d like to add that, after I neutered my bucks, they never got along after so I had to get two females to bond them to.

I brought Echo with me to pick up Zola to make sure they had bonding potential and they haven’t been separated since! They didn’t even need to be bonded. So sometimes it’s extremely easy to bond.

 

[goldfinch]

John, you’re right that it will be more of an issue at molt time. I have all sorts of allergies I have to live with though. And yes it could for sure be the hay or bedding. I’ll go to the local feed shop to see what the least allergenic options are. Regardless, one or two blow outs a year seems preferable to constant shedding.

And Echo Bunny, I for sure don’t want 4 rabbits. I think a male/female sibling pair or an already bonded rescue pair would reduce the risk — especially if they’re from a rescue and already fixed.

 

[John Wick]

John, you’re right that it will be more of an issue at molt time. I have all sorts of allergies I have to live with though. And yes it could for sure be the hay or bedding. I’ll go to the local feed shop to see what the least allergenic options are. Regardless, one or two blow outs a year seems preferable to constant shedding.

And Echo Bunny, I for sure don’t want 4 rabbits. I think a male/female sibling pair or an already bonded rescue pair would reduce the risk — especially if they’re from a rescue and already fixed.

If they are a bonded pair from a rescue, they should already be fixed, in close to 100% of cases-- almost all rabbit rescues, in my experience, will not adopt out any unfixed rabbits. Be cautious of being offered two rabbits who are 1) young, 2) not fixed, and 3) claim to be "bonded", as it could just be a baby bond that hasn't been really 'tested' by hormones.

 

[goldfinch]

Noted. There is a very reputable rescue that only adopts out fixed l, vaccinated and health guaranteed rabbits. Their preference is to adopt out bonded pairs, and they won’t break up a bonded pair. They don’t have any low allergen rabbits available now though, so have waitlisted me.

 

[lilac]

I’m also looking for a very docile and cuddly rabbit because my kids will be bummed if they end up with unsocialized or timid rabbits that scratch and squirm and don’t want to be held

Actually, by adopting a rabbit from a rescue you will have a bigger chance of finding a docile, cuddly rabbit because most of the rabbits there will already be fixed, so their actual adult personalities will be showing, and the volunteers there will already know their personalities and will be able to describe them to you.
All baby rabbits tend to tolerate being held and cuddled, but once they are of age to be fixed their adult personalities will start to show and you will often find that they will hate being held and cuddled, and will start to kick or scratch when held. (even once fixed) This doesn't mean they are "unsocialized", it just means they don't like being held or cuddled.
So if you want a cuddly rabbit it'd be better to go in to a rescue and meet their fixed rabbits, or ask the shelter which of their rabbits are the cuddliest

 

[goldfinch]

This is such a great perspective that I hadn’t thought of, Lilac. Hopefully the contact gets some low allergen bunnies soon. But then you also don’t really want rescues having to take on more bunnies in an ideal world.

 

[Blue eyes]

Re: drama, mostly I don’t want to have rabbits decide to try to kill each other one day out of the blue. If this is a likely outcome, it would be better to have one rabbit and provide other kinds of enrichment. I just don’t know what would be adequate considering how social rabbits are by nature.

Unless you get two already-bonded and already-fixed rabbits, there is a real chance that 2 rabbits won't get along --- most especially once hormones kick in. Babies almost always get along, but only temporarily. Hormones can change the sweetest and cuddliest (baby) pair into a vicious fighting pair.

If getting an already bonded pair is not an option (due to allergy concerns), then a better option might be to start with one rabbit. Then once that rabbit is fixed (and 8 weeks past surgery), then you can begin searching for a bondmate. This bondmate should be already-fixed so you can pre-screen for potential compatibility. Rescues allow these type of meets and also typically allow exchanges if two rabbits simply refuse to get along. So getting the second rabbit later on might be a simpler way to go.

re: personality changes with age, It would just be difficult to get a family pet that starts out very relaxed and cuddly and then have him turn aloof or aggressive, spray the house or the people, etc. That would be grounds for moving outside in my books.

Hormones can very well turn the sweetest, relaxed rabbit into an aggressive, lunging, biting, spraying beast. Neutering will calm that down. Moving such a rabbit outdoors will only make him worse since such a rabbit would need to be tolerated until hormones are settled and then, if necessary, trained to stop any aggressive behaviors. An outdoor rabbit wouldn't get the luxury of having his behavior constantly monitored (and corrected if need be). This is another reason why choosing a rabbit that is already fixed is such an advantage. The personalities of baby (pre-hormonal) rabbits are never an indication of what that rabbit may be like as an adult (over 6 months of age). The personality and temperament of already-fixed rabbits are evident.

So I guess my real question should be to avoid the undesirable stuff should I get a male or a female and am I crazy to try to bond a pair?

Honestly, I would never recommend someone new to rabbits attempt to bond them. Bonding is such a quirky thing and is so unique to each pair. It helps if one is very familiar with rabbit body language-- something that can take years to know. That said, there are times when bonding is truly effortless. I've had bonds that were completely easy and effortless. Those who have only experienced that type of bond will wonder what all the fuss is about. But other bonds can be any degree of difficulty, culminating in ones that are tornado-fighting, bloody, not-ever-going-to-happen attempts.

Being the thoughtful type you seem to be, perhaps starting with a single rabbit may be the way to go. You may find it more desirable to find a bondmate down the road, after he's neutered and healed. In the meantime, the rescue can be on the lookout for a potential (allergy friendly) future bondmate for your guy.

 

[goldfinch]

Blue Eyes, I think you’ve presented the option that I’m most comfortable with. It reduces a lot of the variables where things can go wrong. And you’re right, the local rabbit rescue does potential bonding match dates, etc.

If I go with the option of starting with one rabbit, fixing it and waiting a time, and then looking for a fixed rescue rabbit as a companion, where do I start? Should I even bother looking for a mellow baby rabbit if their personalities will change so dramatically? Should it be male or female?

And if you do have a rabbit spayed or neutered as early as possible (sounds like 4 months) do you think we could avoid spraying and aggressive behaviour altogether? If not… it might be better to try to find a fixed older rabbit as our first bunny, too.

 

[Blue eyes]

If starting with one rabbit, I'd suggest a male. They tend to not get quite as territorial as females. This can help simplify things later when it comes time to bringing a 2nd rabbit home.

With the 2nd rabbit, I'd avoid baby rabbits since there's no way to predict how they'll get along with another rabbit (after they've been fixed and grown into their adult personality). Aside from the pesky hormones and the cost of surgery that would come with a baby, there's no way to predict whether that baby will ultimately bond with the 1st rabbit. But by the time that is discovered, all that time and money would already have been invested in the 2nd rabbit.

Far easier to attempt bonding with an already-fixed rabbit that has been pre-screened. If it just doesn't work, then the 2nd one should be able to be exchanged with another (most rescues do this). As for whether it should be male or female... generally a spayed female will bond more easily with a male but it completely depends on the individual rabbits.

Neutering a rabbit early may help prevent some hormonal behaviors from fully revealing themselves. Again this is individual per rabbit. Some rabbits don't seem to exhibit any drastic hormonal behaviors. Others exhibit them all!

Regardless, though, I'd always suggest starting with an already-fixed rabbit over a baby -- most especially for new rabbit owners. The reason for this isn't because "oh, you'll save a rescue rabbit," but because adult rabbits are far easier to train, have evident personalities/temperament (you know what you're getting), and are far better suited to ease a new rabbit owner into the world of rabbits as pets.

Here's a page from my website that may help explain some of this in more detail. The rest of the site may answer some of your other questions as well. [Hopefully you'll be able to view it on a laptop or desktop as I find the mobile/phone format to be less user-friendly.]
https://rabbitsindoors.weebly.com/choosing-your-first-bunny.html