New bunnies--health concerns with unusual-looking urine

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LolaE

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Hallo everyone. I have recently come to care for two new Netherland dwarf bunnies, a brother and sister who are now 11 weeks old. I have experience caring for my sister's two-year-old rescue rabbit (neutered male, unknown breed), but babies are new for me, and I have developed a couple concerns.

Since I brought them home a few weeks ago, they've seemed very happy. They warmed up very quickly to the new environment, and have spent lots of time out of their cage exploring (though they haven't left the one room of the house yet). I have been litter-training them (also new to me, as my sister's rabbit was litter-trained when she got him), and they've responded pretty well, with the exception of a couple mistakes here and there. Drusilla (the black girl): she's very assertive, always wants to know what's going on, and spends her time either exploring or lounging luxuriously. Both bunnies are surprisingly not shy at all, but Drusilla is not interested in being petted--she's way too busy, and if you try, sometimes she likes it, but usually she will turn her back on you and begin checking out something much more interesting. Nebel (the grey boy) is much more submissive, very quiet, and spends all his time eating or nestled down real quiet. If you go near him, he'll stop whatever he's doing and come nuzzle your hand for lots of pets, and then nestle right down under your touch--very sweet. He will even sit happily on your lap for a cuddle. Sweetest of all, they are inseparable. They explore together, eat together, binky together, and sleep together.

Now they are 11 weeks old, and it's coming time to have Nebel neutered. I've separated them so that they are still in the same area, just with a separating fence between them, so they can still see and maybe even touch each other through the bars. When I did this, Drusilla was completely nonplussed, and continued lounging as normal. Nebel was a little upset at first, and tried to get through the separator, but he gradually quietened down and now seems fine. The vet in my area told me that they recommend waiting until bunnies reach about 1.5 kg to have them neutered; I weighed Nebel at 730 g about a week ago (he has grown since then, but is definitely not even 1 kg). I called the vet and told him I didn't think they'd ever reach 1.5 kg since they are such a small breed (Netherland dwarf), and he said he could still do the procedure but recommended I wait until Nebel is at least 14 weeks.

So, first question: is it alright to keep them separated like I have for another several weeks, including the period after the surgery?

Now, the most urgent question: today I noticed that Drusilla (since they are separated, I know which one it is) peed in a spot outside of her tray, and the urine was sort of off-white, thick, and a little sticky. I took a picture as best I could, included in this post. It was on a grey dishtowel I've been using to litter-train them. I have not seen this before, and I didn't see it happen--I only assume it's urine, because what else could it be? But it does not sound normal. I looked up what it could be, and found information suggesting they could have too much calcium in their diet--but it sounded like this could be a very serious problem. What should I do?

I currently feed them a diet of alfalfa hay and pellets for baby rabbits, and lots of water. I have also fed them each a fingernail-sized piece of pear, but have been very slow to introduce other foods. I originally had them on the regular meadow hay my sister gives her adult bun, which they liked for about a week, but then their poop started to be much bigger and softer, so I switched. They have seemed perfectly healthy until now.

I have also noticed before that Nebel's urine (maybe both of theirs, but I at least know his is for sure after separating them) is a very deep rust colour, also pictured below. This has been the case for a while. I haven't worried about it, because I was aware that bunnies can have quite orange-red urine, but since I am asking about Drusilla, I will just double-check about this, too.

Even since finding Drusilla's strange urine today, she has seemed fine. No behaviour out of the ordinary, and is eating regularly. I do have timothy hay, and am thinking I will start feeding her that and weening her off of alfalfa hay immediately, given the high levels of calcium in alfalfa.

Also, I live in New Zealand, where today we have just gone into level 4 lockdown for COVID-19. This means I have no current access to a vet. So I am looking for options I might have readily available to me--change in diet, and anything I should keep an eye out for in her behaviour to make sure she is okay. I am pretty concerned about this, because everything I found on the Internet suggested this could be a really serious problem--I hope there is something I can do to help her without needing to take her to a vet.

Thank you very much for taking the time to read this and get back to my questions. I really appreciate the advice.

Lola


IMG_20210726_141744.jpg IMG_20210726_141801.jpg IMG_20210729_181457.jpgIMG_20210727_153615.jpg
Drusilla's white urine:
IMG_20210817_185620.jpg
Nebel's orange urine:
IMG_20210817_191330.jpg
 
I realise that this post is very long, but I just wanted to get all the information down. Thank you so much for reading.
 
Orange pee is quite normal that could just be from plant pigments or dietary change. Bunnies can get bright and vivid colored urine from their diet.

The white pee seems to be bladder sludge, which is when the bunny gets too much dietary calcium and it makes it harder for them to pee.

I am not an expert this is just a guess really, I am so sorry I can’t help you more. I hope this website I linked down below helps.

https://www.oxbowanimalhealth.com/blog/bladder-sludge-in-rabbits-and-guinea-pigs/
 
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When it comes to neutering a Netherland dwarf the breeder I got my rabbit from said you should wait till the buck is six months to make sure his testicles have dropped before going through with the procedure. If they haven’t descended, it could cause complications in the future. Also, it would be good to wait till he gets close to his full weight so he he has the best chance of surviving the procedure with anesthesia and everything. Other people in the forum can probably verify that though.

Also the white spot of urine does look like a calcium deposit to me and I wouldn’t worry unless she acts sluggish or different from usual. Adding Timothy hay into their diets would be a good idea like you mentioned.
 
Normal white calcium sediment wouldn't be thick and sticky. It's dilute and dries chalky. Whitish thick sticky urine is bladder sludge, so some dietary changes are usually needed to prevent it from becoming a problem and developing into build up in the bladder and a UTI.

Because she's still eating/drinking and acting normal, isn't dribbling urine or have a urine soaked bum, and you didn't see red blood spots in the white urine spot, she likely hasn't developed bladder calcium build up or a UTI, so she probably is ok for now, provided you can make the necessary dietary changes to help reduce the calcium sediment in the urine. As for the orangish urine, it's normal and due to plant pigments, probably the alfalfa.

I would stop feeding the alfalfa hay immediately and switch to the timothy hay. If you're feeding an alfalfa based pellet, I would suggest switching to a grass based pellet usually used for adult pet rabbits, like Oxbow adult. It contains a lower calcium level. If she's eating the timothy hay really well, I would just stop the alfalfa based junior pellet with her immediately, and then gradually introduce the grass based pellet starting with a small amount and gradually increasing over a couple of weeks.

And make sure she's drinking well. Good hydration to help keep the bladder flushed, is also important. As is staying active. It would be good for her to have shelves and boxes to jump up and down from. This helps keep the calcium in the bladder churned up so it can be more easily expelled upon urination, instead of settling into the bottom of the bladder.

Then keep an eye on her urine. If she seems to still have a lot of calcium sediment in her urine even on grass hay and a grass based pellet, then either decreased pellet amounts are needed, or some rabbits even have to have pellets removed from their diet. Now she'll still need some calcium in her diet, but just enough so you don't see more than a little calcium sediment in the urine.

So that's what I would do. I had a bladder sludge prone bun and managed it by a no pellet, free fed medium coarse grass hay only diet(due to a different health issue, and not too coarse of a hay or too leafy) and low calcium leafy greens. It's what worked for him, but what works best for each sludge prone rabbit can vary. Also monitor weight and body condition to make sure she continues to stay at a healthy weight with the dietary changes. Then it would be good to discuss this all with your vet when you're able to.

https://wabbitwiki.com/wiki/Urine
https://rabbit.org/bladder-disease-and-bladder-stones-in-the-rabbit/
https://rabbit.org/bladder-stones-and-bladder-sludge-in-rabbits/
https://rabbit.org/lowering-blood-calcium/
https://wabbitwiki.com/wiki/Weight_management
 
@JBun adressed the urine issue well, but I'll give my two cents on the other concerns :)

Spaying can be done at 4 months old, though many vets wait until 5 or 6 months. Neuturing is often done later than spaying when the testicles drop, which is at 6 months or so. It's good you're keeping them seperated since once the 3-4 month point hits they could reproduce if kept together. You'll have to fix both of them and keep them seperate until fully healed, and then start the bonding proccess again.

1.5kg seems quite a lot for a netherland dwarf this young and I don't exactly know why the weight had to be that to get fixed though it might have to do with size and anethesia dosage. Their weight now seems healthy, and if they're healthy then fixing can be done, not sure about the 1.5kg mark. 14 weeks is still a little early IMO, I'd wait a little longer.

Like ^^ said, reducing calcium can help with the urine. At the 12 week mark you can also gradually introduce leafy greens (I recommend starting with romaine lettuce as it's a very basic veg) and when you do so I'd try to feed lower calcium veggies.

They both look so adorable and happy!
 
i Would only add that when a bunny is Spayed/neutered too young that often circulating hormones which contribute to normal healthy bone development are eliminated too soon . That is one reason that 6 months is considered to be a good age For a female and a little younger for a male , or when the testicles fully drop
 
Hallo everyone. Thank you so much for all your responses and useful links! I immediately switched to timothy hay and constructed a little bunny-sized obstacle course in the room for them to run around in--so I have been making sure she's getting lots of exercise! She still hasn't been drinking that much, but she does seem perfectly happy and energetic, and I haven't noticed anymore white urine since I made the switch. At the moment, I have stopped feeding her the alfalfa-based pellets, but have not switched to the adult pellets, because I was worried about upsetting her diet too much. Is there any way to encourage her to drink more water?

In regards to spaying/neutering, when I neuter him, do I have to spay her before I re-introduce them to each other? I was under the impression this wasn't necessary, since they already know each other and are continuing to live next to each other, with just a fence separating them (so they can still see/smell/hear/interact with each other). Also, I thought females get spayed considerably later than males get neutered?

Thanks again for all your help!
 
Hallo everyone. Thank you so much for all your responses and useful links! I immediately switched to timothy hay and constructed a little bunny-sized obstacle course in the room for them to run around in--so I have been making sure she's getting lots of exercise! She still hasn't been drinking that much, but she does seem perfectly happy and energetic, and I haven't noticed anymore white urine since I made the switch. At the moment, I have stopped feeding her the alfalfa-based pellets, but have not switched to the adult pellets, because I was worried about upsetting her diet too much. Is there any way to encourage her to drink more water?

In regards to spaying/neutering, when I neuter him, do I have to spay her before I re-introduce them to each other? I was under the impression this wasn't necessary, since they already know each other and are continuing to live next to each other, with just a fence separating them (so they can still see/smell/hear/interact with each other). Also, I thought females get spayed considerably later than males get neutered?

Thanks again for all your help!
They do have to both be spayed.
No, it's generally when they get to the teenage stage so 4-6 months.
Males can still get females pregnant through cage bars so I'd be careful.
If you're feeding veggies now then it could be why she's drinking less, but if she seems fine I don't see anything to worry about.
You can transition from one pellet to another by slowly mixing it together, so for one week 10% new 90% old, and then increase the new by 10% and decrease old by 10%.
You're going to need to keep them seperated for 2 months after their surgeries to heal and so their hormones die down. Then you can restart the bonding process.
I'd love to see a pic of the obstacle course!
 

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