I recently got a bunny and am in the process of potty training him. He was doing well, until I decided to change his litter box into a hooded one (i'm not doing this anymore, it's clear he doesn't like it). He's still having quite a few accidents even now that I removed the hood. I decided to clean out his exercise pen to get rid of the odor from his accidents and now I'm thinking of changing the layout to make it more litter box friendly, is this a good idea? he's only had this layout for about 4 days. I'm scared this will just make him even more territorial because of the changes.
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Could you post a photo of his current setup? How long have you had him? What's his age and neuter status? The answers to those will allow us to better answer your questions.
In the meantime, you can check the following page of my website for general tips on litter training and placement/setup of litter box.
In the meantime, you can check the following page of my website for general tips on litter training and placement/setup of litter box.
Litter Training
[ Tablet users, try the "web" version by clicking on "web" at the bottom of this page for a better, user-friendly format . ]
rabbitsindoors.weebly.com
The first photo (with the hidey house in the middle) is the original set up, and I want to change it to the other photo. I thought by having his food and water bowl close to the litter box would make it easier to potty train. I've had him for just 4 days. He's a year old, and he's not neutered (currently saving up money so I can get him neutered). The litter box he has now is new, I just got it yesterday and before this I used the bottom part of his old cage as a litter box (it's huge which is why i wanted to switch it to a cat litter box). He was near perfect with his litter habits and it all changed after i got him this new litter box.Could you post a photo of his current setup? How long have you had him? What's his age and neuter status? The answers to those will allow us to better answer your questions.
In the meantime, you can check the following page of my website for general tips on litter training and placement/setup of litter box.
Litter Training
[ Tablet users, try the "web" version by clicking on "web" at the bottom of this page for a better, user-friendly format . ]rabbitsindoors.weebly.com
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4 days is a very short time and too soon for him to establish any habits yet. If you looked over the link I provided, you may have already read about some of this but I'll offer some thoughts here anyway.
Having the hidey box in the middle (like 1st photo) is actually a safer option. By contrast, having it against the side of the pen could provide too much of a launching point for him to hop over the side wall.
The puppy pad should be removed from the litter box. It has plastic and bunny may decide to ingest it, causing a gut blockage. The pads are not necessary. I'd suggest following the litter box setup described at the link provided (wood pellets [not shavings], topped with hay).
The connectors that come with the grid panels are not strong enough. Rabbits have been known to bump them right off. Better to use zip ties to hold the grids together. The added bonus of using zip ties is that it makes it super easy to create a "door" so bunny can freely go in and out of his cage during his exercise time. It is not advised to be picking bunny up and lifting him out of his cage for this. He needs to be able to go in and out himself. You can see examples of this on the same site in "housing options" under the "caring" tab.
Having the hidey box in the middle (like 1st photo) is actually a safer option. By contrast, having it against the side of the pen could provide too much of a launching point for him to hop over the side wall.
The puppy pad should be removed from the litter box. It has plastic and bunny may decide to ingest it, causing a gut blockage. The pads are not necessary. I'd suggest following the litter box setup described at the link provided (wood pellets [not shavings], topped with hay).
The connectors that come with the grid panels are not strong enough. Rabbits have been known to bump them right off. Better to use zip ties to hold the grids together. The added bonus of using zip ties is that it makes it super easy to create a "door" so bunny can freely go in and out of his cage during his exercise time. It is not advised to be picking bunny up and lifting him out of his cage for this. He needs to be able to go in and out himself. You can see examples of this on the same site in "housing options" under the "caring" tab.
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NorthernNevadaHollandLops
Well-Known Member
There is a lot of information out there. I think it is helpful to pick a potty training plan that you think is doable for you and just stick to it. It will take time, especially until he is neutered. Bunnies, like many animals, use their pee and poop to mark their territory. Once he feels established and settled, he may improve in his success. I did not read the link blue eyes included, but I imagine its a good one. Most I have read will tell you to move the litter box to the place where your rabbit seems to pee or poop the most. You can even put in two trays and the as he gets more successful, remove one of them. Also, it's helpful to put their food above the tray as they tend to go to poop and pee while they eat.
odyssey~
Well-Known Member
I think @Blue eyes answered your main concern nicely 
Regarding the wood hideout, you could always use a fabric pee pad on top (search washable puppy pads or guinea dad pads on amazon) or coat the hideout with a safe sealant like unboiled linseed oil.
Regarding the wood hideout, you could always use a fabric pee pad on top (search washable puppy pads or guinea dad pads on amazon) or coat the hideout with a safe sealant like unboiled linseed oil.
Thank you! I will take note of all this and make! I'm using hemp as my bedding, I tried finding wood pellets and it was really difficult to find where I am (Amsterdam). I actually decided to go back to using his old litter box, despite it being quite big. I think that would be the better option as I ordered the new litter box cause I wanted to try a hooded one and since he doesn't like it then I might as well stick with the old one! thank for the help!
Oh that's really good to know! thank you!I think @Blue eyes answered your main concern nicely
Regarding the wood hideout, you could always use a fabric pee pad on top (search washable puppy pads or guinea dad pads on amazon) or coat the hideout with a safe sealant like unboiled linseed oil.
