I've had Chive for about 2 weeks, and I've gotten him out to play more and more. He isn't incredibly happy when I go into his cage to get him out but he allows it. However, when it's time to go up, he runs from me and thumps incredibly loudly. I don't like making him thump, because I know it won't help him become more comfortable at all... Also in order to put him up, I end up having to chase him and I know that isn't good, but he won't even come to me to get treats and I have no other option to get him up. My female bunny Clover is fine with being held and picked up after play time. If anyone has any advice to get Chive to calm down and allow me to put him up that would be great thanks! And btw he's not yet old enough to be fixed, he's only around 4 months.
How to stop the thumping?
- Thread starter Jayme
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missyscove
Christina - Moderator
What sort of cage is he in? If it's a cage he can get in and out of on his own that might help. For example, my rabbits live in a big dog crate in my room. I open the door and they hop in and out on their own. When it's time for them to go back, I follow them around softly clapping my hands and saying "go home." Once they're in their cage they always get a treat.
Chive also loves in a big dog crate, but how did you teach them to do that? They aren't allowed to play in my room (wires) so I take them into the loft, so I'd need him to go from his cage to the loft. He isn't that responsive to treats and isn't ld enough for veggies.
PaGal
Well-Known Member
Is there any way you can rabbit proof the wires so then the buns could be in you room?
You could try to train him to go into a cat carrier. You could then take him back and forth from the loft to your room that way.
You should work with him on getting used to being picked up however as it is necessary for clipping nails, trips to vets etc. I do understand that not having him long and based on his personality how you would not want him to start holding a grudge against you for chasing him and picking him up.
You could try to train him to go into a cat carrier. You could then take him back and forth from the loft to your room that way.
You should work with him on getting used to being picked up however as it is necessary for clipping nails, trips to vets etc. I do understand that not having him long and based on his personality how you would not want him to start holding a grudge against you for chasing him and picking him up.
There's not enough space in my room for it to be worth wire proofing for them when they have a bunny-safe huge loft to run through. How do I start the process of getting him used to being handled if he's unresponsive to treats? Do I just hold him and hope he eventually gets used to it? Should I stop letting him out to run if I can't get him back with out chaing him?
PaGal
Well-Known Member
Does he come to you at all? If you are sitting quietly in the room does he come up to you?
Is there any way to just keep their cage in the loft?
Is there any way to just keep their cage in the loft?
I am of the very strong opinion that a rabbit should not be forced out of its cage. His cage should be his safe zone, his sanctuary and I don't think your hand should be reaching in and forcing him out.
I absolutely agree that his cage should be kept where his exercise area is or his exercise area should be where his cage is.
Ideally, one should simply have to open the door to let him out. That is best because then he can readily go back in at will -- for instance, if he is scared or if he has to use the potty.
Then to get him back in, you can either wait until he hops in and then close the door, entice him in with fresh hay, or use the clapping method. The idea with each of these bribes is that he thinks it is his decision to go back in his cage.
I also think that forcing a bunny in and/or out of his cage will teach him to distrust you and will ultimately hurt your attempt to bond with him.
I understand your other bunny is quite compliant, but I think she is the exception, not the rule.
Chive does need daily exercise. Either move the cage to the loft, or bunny proof your room. His thumping is telling you he doesn't like what you're doing.
I absolutely agree that his cage should be kept where his exercise area is or his exercise area should be where his cage is.
Ideally, one should simply have to open the door to let him out. That is best because then he can readily go back in at will -- for instance, if he is scared or if he has to use the potty.
Then to get him back in, you can either wait until he hops in and then close the door, entice him in with fresh hay, or use the clapping method. The idea with each of these bribes is that he thinks it is his decision to go back in his cage.
I also think that forcing a bunny in and/or out of his cage will teach him to distrust you and will ultimately hurt your attempt to bond with him.
I understand your other bunny is quite compliant, but I think she is the exception, not the rule.
Chive does need daily exercise. Either move the cage to the loft, or bunny proof your room. His thumping is telling you he doesn't like what you're doing.
MILU
Well-Known Member
My bunny stays in an area near the kitchen, I let her go to the living room and she doesn't want to go back to her place either. She doesn't thump though. I'm fostering her, she's a big bunny who doesn't trust anyone much, and I want her to like me, so when it's time to go, I tell her so and if she doesn't go, I bring a broom and gently let the broom "chase" her (so it's not "me", although she knows I control it). It's more or less a way to "play" with her - the broom "chases" her (always nicely), then she runs all over the apartment - goes every single where possible once or twice before she goes to her area. She seems to enjoy the "game". Before I bring the broom, I tell her that if she doesn't go to her place, I'll have to bring the "bunny remote control" (= broom) LOL
Sometimes I just tell her to go to her place and she does it, but not too often. I need the remote control every once in a while.
I'm open for suggestions too!
Sometimes I just tell her to go to her place and she does it, but not too often. I need the remote control every once in a while.
I'm open for suggestions too!
MILU
Well-Known Member
Ah - the treat cheat doesn't work with her either!
It used to work for my bunny MILU when I wanted to go sleep (and close my room door without him inside) but soon he learned it was a trick of mine.. after a while, when I left treats for him, he'd run to my door. It had the opposite effect.. so I suggest you don't do that every day, bunnies are too smart to cheat!
It used to work for my bunny MILU when I wanted to go sleep (and close my room door without him inside) but soon he learned it was a trick of mine.. after a while, when I left treats for him, he'd run to my door. It had the opposite effect.. so I suggest you don't do that every day, bunnies are too smart to cheat!
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existenziell
Well-Known Member
Well, first and foremost, two weeks is not very long. He is probably still getting settled in. I agree with the above posts about not getting him out of his cage yourself but rather allowing him to come out on his own. I have a rabbit, Juni, who is fixed and has pretty bad territorial issues. She's fine...unless I have to get her out of her cage myself. Instead, I've found it best to try and get her to come out on her own and handle her as little as possible. A couple people on here had given me that advice and it seems to work better. Perhaps you should try that too.
It is quite possible that he is still settling down, Bandit had settled quite a bit after two weeks, but it took about a month before he seemed to accept us fully.
I will second what somebody else said about using a cat carrier, I've found their super easy with rabbits because they resemble a burrow. Any time I put it down, within five minutes Bandit will be inside it. So what I would do is put some of his pellets or a small bit of hay in the back of the carrier and put the opening against the opening of the dog crate, then once he's in (you may have to be patient the first time because it's new) you can just close the door. As for getting him back in it in the loft, if you just put it down on the floor, eventually it will be investigated and once again, because it's like a burrow, he's likely to go inside. Bandit sits in his for long periods of time, trying to dig through the bottom
I will second what somebody else said about using a cat carrier, I've found their super easy with rabbits because they resemble a burrow. Any time I put it down, within five minutes Bandit will be inside it. So what I would do is put some of his pellets or a small bit of hay in the back of the carrier and put the opening against the opening of the dog crate, then once he's in (you may have to be patient the first time because it's new) you can just close the door. As for getting him back in it in the loft, if you just put it down on the floor, eventually it will be investigated and once again, because it's like a burrow, he's likely to go inside. Bandit sits in his for long periods of time, trying to dig through the bottom
missyscove
Christina - Moderator
Is having the cage in the bunny proofed area not an option? All the wires in my room are covered. They're only locked in their dog crate when I'm asleep or not at home and the rest of the time their door is open (although they often choose to hang out in the crate).
The instinct for a bunny when they're picked up is to think that a predator has them so there are lots of rabbits that hate being picked up. I think everyone should be able to pick up their rabbit, in case of an emergency, but it's not something I do all the time as it can stress them out.
The instinct for a bunny when they're picked up is to think that a predator has them so there are lots of rabbits that hate being picked up. I think everyone should be able to pick up their rabbit, in case of an emergency, but it's not something I do all the time as it can stress them out.
I can't keep Chive in the loft, because that's where Clover also runs, and her size allows for her to slip between the bars of his cage and so I don't want to take the risk puff something happening, even though the play time is supervised. I'll try bunny proofing the room and the car carrier method. chive has a cardboard box that he plays in, if its upside down. So I'll just transport him in that. However, Chive has really long hair and needs to be brushed or he'll get mats and so he needs to get used to human hands. When he's out to play he will come sniff me, and even if I don't move, after a second he'll run. Clover runs to anyone to be petted, and I was hoping he'd see her and learn from example.
