Cat Cages?

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rhianna

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I have been playing with ideas for cages when I move and have a room just for the pets. After lots of inspiration from the elaborate multi-level bunny condos that people build, I got the idea- why not just buy a cat cage? Is there any reason this isn't a more popular thing for rabbits?

Some examples:
1. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I1M76Q/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
2. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000YG65XQ/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
3. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006L0TWC/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Now of course it would be a night time home for otherwise free-range bunnies, like any cage should be. Any input on the idea is welcome. I'm just brainstorming for when I have the space for a bunny condo. :biggrin2:
 
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I've never seen cat cages before, they look awesome. I've been planning out a bunny condo for a while and they actually look a lot like what I was going to build. Probably work out cheaper too and much easier for certain!
 
Out of those the only one I would consider using would be the one that's 48 inches long (though to begin with I can't even fathom why people would keep their cats in cages). I think the main problem with these is that you would need to alter the shelving for it to even be usable for a rabbit, since they're currently spread apart to encourage the cat to jump, but they aren't suitable for rabbits, so that would be the first challenge. But otherwise, I don't see why they wouldn't work.
 
We had theses when I worked at the SPCA and also at the vet. The vets office had their adoptable cats hang out in it during the day so people could see them. The SPCA switched from using stainless steel cages to these. I would have never thought to use them for buns, great idea!
 
I don't think I'd use ramps, but that's just personal opinion, I'd rather have larger shelves that spanned the entire space with a gap at one corner for the bunny to jump through, saves on space too :) But good to know you can get that stuff. In terms of cost, after you buy the cage, and maybe the ramps and still have to add stuff to the shelves as nicer surfaces etc, I think you'd end up coming out at the same amount, if not more money than just buying grids and building a condo. Certainly easier in terms of cage already set up, but there's still a bit of work there.

Would be interesting to know how much people's condos cost them all up?
 
That's a good point, I'm just not a very handy person so I'm not sure how easy it'd be for me to actually built a condo. Looking more into it I think the shelves are quite a bit small. You can buy shelf expansion things but they're expensive...

It was just an idea I had last night, but today I've been looking through lots of threads and photos of NIC condos and it doesn't look as hard as I thought. Also I already have grids, I'd probably need to buy another pack or two but that's no big deal. My grandpa has lots of scrap wood and I'm sure my dad would be willing to help me build it. I also like the idea of being able to customize it, plus it'd be bigger than a cat cage. All of them are 30-36" wide by 20-24" deep, so that's not great. It'd be a good quick or temporary option though, or possible cheaper for someone who has absolutely no supplies for an NIC condo and would have to go buy everything new.
 
Those are pretty expensive to be honest. I bought dog pens for my rabbits which were 30.00 for a 4 foot by 4 foot cage.
 
I definitely expect to do some changes to make them more rabbit-friendly. Adjusting/reinforcing the shelves, adding ramps, etc. I just figured it'd be a lot cheaper and easier than building a condo from the ground up.

Edit: I actually just found this: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000Y91GKK/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

NIC cages are better, more customizable and can be built for the same price if not cheaper ;)

Tools needed: scissors, a cheap utility knife (if using coroplast) - you can get one for $1 at home depot, fingers and a brain. If you can tie zipties and can be trusted with a utility knife, you can build a NIC condo. They look intimidating, but once you get going it's surprisingly easy to build one!

The best price I know of for the grids is at Sears (you can do site to store to avoid the outrageous shipping fees if your local store doesn't carry them). 23 grids per box for $21.99 + tax.



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(Obviously if they were locked in it at night, you would need to remove one grid on the ceiling/floor between the first two levels to create direct access between them. As a note, if you wanted to go with this design, I *strongly* recommend making the bottom floor two grids high and the middle floor the one that's one grid high (like in my second condo) - so much more practical for cleaning purposes!)

Grids - 68 (3 boxes) - $65.97 + tax (note: don't put grids on the floor of the ground floor or you'll need a 4th box - they're unnecessary from a stability standpoint and without them, you don't need to install flooring on that level)

Coroplast - one 4'x8' sheet** - varies from one sign shop to another; I paid $18 a sheet for the purple stuff used above. I normally recommend the 3'x6' sheets at Home Depot for around $13, but you would need two of them for this condo design, so it would end up being more expensive.
(I used it on the ground floor as well but there's really no need if you want to save some money - just use the house flooring or, if you feel the need to protect it, a $5 or so tarp from Walmart)

Fleece: my bunns ruined it and I had to take it away, however if you wanted to use it, the cheapest fleece option is the 50'' x 60'' fleece blankets at Walmart for a bit under $3 each. You'd need two blankets to do the floors on the second/third levels and the ledge, so $6 plus maybe $2 for binder clips to hold it on.

Zipties (4'') - theoretically, about 300 are needed (2 per seam between two grids, plus a few more for dowels). Realistically, you always end up changing your mind or messing up here and there and having to snip and redo some (plus, once you have them on hand, you start discovering all variety of other uses for them), so I recommend a minimum of 400. If you want to reinforce the corners diagonally wherever 4 grids meet (not necessary, but I did on the first condo), you'll end up wanting closer to 500.

Do NOT buy them at a hardware store - Home Depot is a ripoff at $18-19 for 1,000 (also, it's more than twice what you need) and Lowe's is significantly worse. The first place I'd look is Dollar Tree or other dollar stores where everything actually IS $1 (or 99c) - depending on the store, you get 80-100 for $1.

If you can't find them there, the next best price I know of is actually on my own website :p (about 1/3 of the way down the page). For a lot of 500 zipties, I charge $3.80 for natural/$4.05 for black; if that's all you ordered, the actual shipping cost would be around $2.50 (PayPal would overcharge, but I always refund the excess).

For cost estimate purposes, let's split the difference and say you were able to find them at a dollar store but there were only 80 per pack; 400 = 5 packs, so $5.

Dowels (to stop the levels from sagging): for a 2 wide x 3 long condo, I recommend a single 48'' dowel running down the center of the level in the long direction. Get round - square dowels are so much more awkward to secure to the level! Also, you want hardwood dowels so that it's safe if your bunns chew them. I find 5/8'' diameter dowels to be a good balance between cost and strength (1/2'' is almost a dollar cheaper but will bow a bit when holding up a decent amount of weight), though 3/4'' dowels are only 50c more a piece. If your HD doesn't carry them, you can do site-to-store to avoid having to pay shipping fees or meet the $45 min order requirement for free shipping. Let's say you use the 5/8'' dowels - that's $4.96.

Total cost: approximately $94 +tax without fleece and $102 +tax with fleece

**Sign stores will cut the coroplast for you on request, usually free of charge. The sizes you'd need for the condo pictured are approximately 32'' x 36'' (third floor), 18'' x 36'' (landing) and 46'' x 36'' (second floor); those measurements account for a 4'' sidewall around the edges. The leftover should amount to about a 1' x 8' strip, since you really only need a 3' x 8' sheet.



2a6jevs.jpg


(pretend half of the roof isn't missing, lol... and disregard the mess and pee stains >.>)

Grids needed: 84 (four boxes) - $87.96

Coroplast: Home Depot is the better deal this time, as you'd need two sheets whether you went with 3' x 6' or 4' x 8' [ask an employee where the plexiglass is - coroplast is in the same section but they never know what you're talking about if you ask for it] - $26

Fleece: same as before - since the condo is 56'' long, you could get away with the 50'' x 60'' blankets if you cut the end sidewalls to 2'' or so - $8 (including binder clips)

Zipties: not all that many more than the smaller cage; you'd need 500 at the most... let's call it $6 at dollar store prices.

Dowels: Since the cage is 56'' long, 48'' dowels were impractical - instead, I used 5/8'' x 36'' dowels ($1.29 at Hobby Lobby, which is cheaper than Home Depot). If you positioned them 1.5 grids in from either end, you should be able to get away with 2 per level (so 4 total). [Note: Hobby Lobby has dowels in two different parts of the store! In both the San Antonio and Houston stores I've been to, there was one display where they were stored horizontally in cubbies and most of them were square... then in a different part of the store, there were vertically-stored dowels which were all round. You want the latter. Four of them = $5.16.

Total cost: $125 +tax without fleece, $133 +tax with fleece.
 
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So yeah, NIC kicks the butt of the cat cages... plus you can get so much more creative with it. If you run into trouble building a condo, you can always ask us for help - tons of people here have experience building one. Oh, and as a note, while I prefer coroplast and find it to be a pretty good value flooring-wise, there are a lot of other viable options as well (I'm just not very familiar with them... hardwood plywood is one, but it costs about as much as coroplast does if not more (depending on the thickness) and you'd still have to buy something else to put on top of it so that it was waterproof).

On a side note, man, have I been meaning to write up a post like that for a long time! Now that it's finally done, I can save the link to it with my NIC condo info so I can link to it later and never have to write the cost-related stuff out manually again :p.
 
My opinion differs some, but I thought I would mention it for consideration.

Rabbits are prey animals that live on the ground. They're long jumpers, not high jumpers. That doesn't mean they can't jump high, but if you've ever seen a rabbit try to go down stairs, you can see how they struggle. They need room to "take off" and land. Vertical just doesn't work in small spaces.

NIC cages can be a great option, but preference should be given to promote more natural movement (forward and out, rather than up and down). The more floor space, the better, with limited tall space. In a tall cage, the rabbit may have several levels of flooring, but the floor space it can utilize is only as big as one level. Rabbits aren't made for climbing or manipulating levels like cats are. Sure, you could find a handful that are the exception, but I'm talking generally. They can easily stumble and fall, and NIC cages don't provide enough room for a "landing." Based on my experience, I also don't find that rabbits have very good close-range depth perception, which would make sense since their eyes are on the side of their heads. You will hear the same about horses. For that reason, they seem to struggle with calculating up and down movement in confined spaces where they can't move out. Cats, on the other hand, have long bodies and can land a deep jump perfectly. In my experience, rabbits need about a body length and a half of room to land without too much vertical impact or possibility of injury.

In theory, you could build an NIC cage large enough to resolve those problems, but the cat cages are definitely too tall and deep to support rabbits, in my opinion. And at any rate, my preference after years of raising rabbits is to keep them on a one-level surface. Some enjoy a small/short box to hop on top of, but I worry about injury when the levels start building.

That's just me though. :)
 
I find that all of my rabbits *really* love the levels - their wild counterparts prefer high ground so that they can easily spot approaching predators and by the same token, rabbits seem to enjoy having a bird's-eye view of whatever room they're in. Nala and Gaz have always spent more time on the top floor of their condo than anywhere else (including the *huge* attached run that they have 24/7 access to). From all I've seen, most bunnies enjoy loafing up high (though of course, not all - different bunns have different preferences).

That said, while I disagree about limiting "tall" space, I agree 100% about floor space being more important *if* the bunnies will be locked inside the condo for hours at a time. I went with a 2x3x5 condo the first time because it was *purely* about giving them some levels - they had 24/7 access to 120 square feet of running around space to tear around in if they ever felt like doing bunny 500s at 3 am. For bunnies who overnight in the condo, I really would suggest something more along the lines of my second condo if that's all the space they'll have at night - with the 2x3x5, they'll be pretty cooped up when they get that 3 am wild streak unless they have some additional floor space.

Humans stay awake for a long stretch of time and then sleep for a long stretch of time... bunnies are technically crepuscular (most active at dawn and dusk), but from what I've seen (and I'm nocturnal half the time/awake during the day half the time, giving me an excellent idea of my bunnies' schedules) they're also semi-nocturnal. Dawn and dusk do tend to be active hours for them; however, they also seem to do a lot more sleeping during the day (especially in the warmer months) than they do at night.

Even a condo with a 2x4 footprint (like my second one) is pretty limiting at night - in all honesty, I think the ideal set-up is to use at least one x-pen (ziptied to either the cage or to screw eyes in the walls around the cage if it's in a corner like mine) to create an attached run. Better yet, you could use small nylon twists (halfway down the page, left column) or re-usable zipties so that you wouldn't have to snip the zipties on one end every day in order to collapse the run if you wanted to regain the space and give them easy access to the house and then apply new zipties every night. Another option would be to use regular zipties to attach carabiners (which I believe are 2 for $1 or something like that at Walmart) to one end of the pen so that you can unlatch it easily and fold it back - that option would be cheapest :).
 

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