Anyone have the KW Cages Bunny Villa?

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Hi everyone,

I am hopefully getting the KW Cages Two Story Bunny Villa (https://www.kwcages.com/cages/house...-cage/two-story-bunny-villa-42-x-24-x-44.html) for my two Holland Lops (bonded, neutered brothers) at some point. Right now the bunnies (who live on the front porch), are in the Midwest Wabbitat Large Folding Rabbit Cage (https://www.midwesthomes4pets.com/product/wabbitat-large-folding-rabbit-cage) - with the wire floor removed (they have a litter box) - at night, and during the day they have an attached exercise pen. Getting this new cage would be an effort for them to have more room when they have to be in their cage at night.

I was wondering if anyone had any experience with the KW Cages Bunny Villa? Any info anyone has will be appreciated as I decide whether or not it would be a good choice.
 
Yikes! That price is really high! You only gain 5 inches of width and 5 inches of length. Yes, you get a 2nd story, but, really, it's the continuous floor space that counts to provide hopping room. Levels don't do that.

For a fraction of that cost, you could easily put together a NIC cage like the one in the photo. That one also has levels, but the floor space (lower level alone) is about 30" by 56" -- providing more than double the floor space of your existing cage. [Your existing cage floor is just 703 sq in. The Villa is 924 sq in. But the NIC is 1680 sq in.]

I can't see spending $300 to add just over 1 square foot of floor space. I can see spending $25 to $50 (even up to $100 depending on how it's done) to add more than double the floor space. IM000411.JPG
 
Yikes! That price is really high! You only gain 5 inches of width and 5 inches of length. Yes, you get a 2nd story, but, really, it's the continuous floor space that counts to provide hopping room. Levels don't do that.

For a fraction of that cost, you could easily put together a NIC cage like the one in the photo. That one also has levels, but the floor space (lower level alone) is about 30" by 56" -- providing more than double the floor space of your existing cage. [Your existing cage floor is just 703 sq in. The Villa is 924 sq in. But the NIC is 1680 sq in.]

I can't see spending $300 to add just over 1 square foot of floor space. I can see spending $25 to $50 (even up to $100 depending on how it's done) to add more than double the floor space. View attachment 36801
I would totally do that if they lived inside, but I was worried about how secure it would be since they live on the front porch.
 
How handy are you? Or do you know someone who is? A number of these could be simplified and built for less than $300 yet still provide plenty of secure space.
https://www.pinterest.com/pin/227854062371505792/

I was particularly thinking about something similar to these ones on there...
dd2c1c7b634676d036bfc26fcc514745.jpg


8e984cdc4e96c9a6f59a584565524687.jpg


1fc7fc60f2d43ffdb8f7b1e0d2eadb86.jpg
 
How handy are you? Or do you know someone who is? A number of these could be simplified and built for less than $300 yet still provide plenty of secure space.
https://www.pinterest.com/pin/227854062371505792/

I was particularly thinking about something similar to these ones on there...
dd2c1c7b634676d036bfc26fcc514745.jpg


8e984cdc4e96c9a6f59a584565524687.jpg


1fc7fc60f2d43ffdb8f7b1e0d2eadb86.jpg
Due to the limited space on the porch (and that is the only place it is safe to keep them outside), I couldn't fit one of those on the porch, (also I don't know how I would build that). The bunnies are right in front of the front door (which is rarely used but still), so I have to take up and put down their exercise pen every morning/night. I wanted to get them a cage that was bigger than the one they have now, but small enough where we could still open the front door if needed. So after a lot of looking, I think the only thing that will work is a dog crate. (if I follow your suggestion of giving them hopping room over levels).

Specifically, I'm looking at this one : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002IQM8S6/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20 in the 42 inch size (any wider would block the front door). The door on the end of the crate is the one that would be open during the day so they could hop in and out.

Also, since this will be a lot taller than their current cage (31" high as opposed to 19" high), do you think something like this would work to make a "shelf"? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074FDKXZW/?coliid=I1VLG9LBEWLLUT&colid=EAHYJE2ALK73&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it


If anyone has any ideas on how to make the most of the space I have, I would appreciate it.
 
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That won't really work for a shelf because it would just be large enough for one bunny to lay down - nothing more. There were some people on here that made a shelf for a dog crate. I'll see if I can find the thread.

In the meantime, is there a way you could take a photo of the front porch area - maybe with the exercise pen set up as you normally do? Maybe new sets of eyes would provide a creative idea.
 
Here's their setup - taken looking out the front door (sorry about the reflection). They have toys, but I didn't get them out today cause it was cold/windy and they prefer to snuggle up on days like this. I do sometimes let them play in their pen in the yard (with a cover over it of course). If I get the crate I mentioned, it would stick out farther than the one they have now so that the storm door would be right up against the crate if opened. Also it would be a foot taller (which is good because they will sometimes jump on top of the one they have now :eek:) In the summer they get frozen plastic jugs of water to stay cool. And that black bin is filled with timothy hay......any suggestions on what I could do with this space are welcome!20180312_171900.jpg 20180312_171843.jpg 20180312_171741.jpg
 
Thanks for the photo. I need to think about that...

Is the area of the porch around the corner (where the black box is) available for use?
I don't think so, because the porch chairs are over there, and also I use that bin to secure the exercise pen (it holds it against the wall - it is heavy from all that hay).
Their cage has to stay where it is now because that is the spot on the porch that offers the most protection from the elements. I have brainstormed this a lot.....there have been a lot of issues but ultimately that is the only place they can go...that's why I originally thought maybe a cage with levels would help when they are locked up at night.
 
Oh, the large crate in your link, did you see the dimensions on the side photo (on amazon)? It states that the 42" crate is actually 43" x 28.5." Would that fit (allow your door to open) if your moved it down toward the edge of the bricks (further away from the door)?
 
Oh, the large crate in your link, did you see the dimensions on the side photo (on amazon)? It states that the 42" crate is actually 43" x 28.5." Would that fit (allow your door to open) if your moved it down toward the edge of the bricks (further away from the door)?
Oh, sorry, when I mentioned that the crate had to be no wider than 42 inches I meant the width on the short side (the 28.5" side), not the 43" side. (I would be putting the crate up against the wall long ways). When I measured the porch I learned that the crate couldn't stick out from the wall farther than 28 inches or the door wouldn't open. However it could be quite long (up to the length of the wall the current cage is against). The problem was that I couldn't find a crate longer than 42 inches that had a width of 28" or below (or a rabbit cage, for that matter).
 
That's what I suspected. Of course, the further down the wall it goes, then the width becomes less problematic as it gets further from the door, right? Just thinking... the largest crate (48") is only 1.25 inches wider than the 28.5" wide crate (it's 29.75" wide). If it's far enough from the door, then the door should still open?

In that case you could even put a solid piece of wood (or whatever) on the end wall of the cage (furthest from the house) to provide a little more shelter/security to make up for sliding the cage further from the door.
 
That's what I suspected. Of course, the further down the wall it goes, then the width becomes less problematic as it gets further from the door, right? Just thinking... the largest crate (48") is only 1.25 inches wider than the 28.5" wide crate (it's 29.75" wide). If it's far enough from the door, then the door should still open?

In that case you could even put a solid piece of wood (or whatever) on the end wall of the cage (furthest from the house) to provide a little more shelter/security to make up for sliding the cage further from the door.
That's right. . . I went out and opened the door as far as it could go to check. My only problem would be that if I covered the door on the end wall of the cage, than the rabbits would have to go in and out of the door on the long side, That door opens straight out (while the one on the end would open towards the wall and I was planning to clip it to the play pen to secure it) so there would be a long door sticking out from the crate all day and I'd be afraid it would blow shut or something. Also I'm not sure what I could put over the end that they wouldn't chew up . . . Any ideas?
 
Ahh. I see what you mean. The door on the short end is on the left side of the cage. Too bad it can't be on the right side.
One way to make it work would be to attach the pen to the back left corner of the pen (far corner against wall). Then use zip ties to attach a piece of coroplast or thin plywood to that short end of the crate (the one with the door). (Just have it sized so that you are still able to clip the x-pen to that back corner.) That would create a solid 'wall' for that exposed side.
Then, to keep the door on the long side from swinging shut, just secure it with a clip or hook or small bungee.
 
Ahh. I see what you mean. The door on the short end is on the left side of the cage. Too bad it can't be on the right side.
One way to make it work would be to attach the pen to the back left corner of the pen (far corner against wall). Then use zip ties to attach a piece of coroplast or thin plywood to that short end of the crate (the one with the door). (Just have it sized so that you are still able to clip the x-pen to that back corner.) That would create a solid 'wall' for that exposed side.
Then, to keep the door on the long side from swinging shut, just secure it with a clip or hook or small bungee.
That sounds like a good idea. Do you think the bunnies could get stuck in any part of the 48" crate? I'm mainly talking about the wire they would have to hop over to go in the door on the long side. The part near the dog's front paws in this picture:
51UgysgxFNL.jpg
 
That looks to be about a 3" opening there near the base. I wouldn't feel comfortable with that either. Your bunnies' heads look bigger than that but I wouldn't want to chance it. You could use some coroplast to create a border that would block that. Here's a photo with this idea. Yours probably would not need that cutout.

58a6631f9d0171ad72db8a3db33eeb20.jpg
 
Imho you can still use the NIC pannels outside and build the buns a nice long 2 or 3 story tall enclosure to suit your space. Way cheaper then the KW cage and allows for more space then the dog crate. You can create a door wherever you want. I would just give it a nice solid floor.

I built my cats a catio with the NIC pannels. Just UV resistant zap straps from the dollar store.
It gets wet and is pretty exposed to the elements. And its 2 years old this summer. Still holds up well. No issues with cats getting out.
FB_IMG_1521004596897.jpg
FB_IMG_1521004602940.jpg
 
If you didnt build your new cage yet I was looking at the porch and your current cage why couldn't you do an add on to your existing setup I would.keep the cage and add a runway in front of it on the short side door get some of the nic panels like above or go to a farm and feed store get a roll of wire say 24" high by 1"x1" or 1"x2" holes a 50 foot roll will be less than a new dog crate so cut yourself panels from the wire to build a run add on for the cage you have now. If you have say 4 feet of porch space beyond the cage cut 4 pcs of 48" long you will need one end too and say you got the 24" high you will need a pcs that is the width you are making the add on and 24"high I would make the run 24" wide a little narrower than the cage but saves on wasted cage wire so if you cut 4 pcs you have the sides and top and bottom cut the end 24x24 or whatever size you pick now use hog rings to clip wire together or you.can build.wooden frame to add wire to and screw wooden frame together and put.at end of the cage twist a couple wires or a couple zip ties to secure the add on run and cage. There now you have a 4 foot extension and you can now start on the 2nd level if you.have a wooden base this.makes it simple just build another rectangular add on run like you.did for the 1st floor run and secure it on top and you can make them a ramp stairs or even makes 3 or 4 random sized wooden boxes and pile them up for a custom built hopping tower they can access the 2nd level and the boxes are great to rearrange giving your buns much needed stimulation and a puzzle to.solve you can customize it to their liking and yours go crazy with it it's fun to build and play bunny's domain
 

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