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Having spayed literally thousands of rabbits, I am impressed with those that find super young rabbits easier to spay.. .their uterus is like a fine thread and very easy to tear accidentally, and does not tolerate much manipulating. I prefer them a bit older so I don't inadvertently tear any...

probably... might consider an eye flushing, and maybe dental radiographs to look for overgrown teeth (common in your breed).

I don't know if I agree with the sooner the better since there is little hormonal influence on a bunny until about 4.5 months of age... but I certainly agree with the rest of what Watermelon's says.. if the veterinarian is comfortable with the surgery and anesthesia, there is nothing wrong with...

I see SO MANY rabbits with GI stasis... but NEVER have I seen one that was NOT eating pellets (or other junk food). I really don't see everyone's weird attachment to this obvious archaic food source. Rabbits do great on greens and hays. Nothing else at all is necessary. Yet when I see...

I personally find it a lot easier to spay older rabbits than itty bitty, immature ones, but that does not necessarily mean someone else does. I find very young rabbits are a bit more risky to anesthetize as well, which is why I have a 2lb rule, unless the rabbit is obviously mature and it will...

my recommendation is STOP pellets. No more pellets! They have the wrong fiber length and are too calorie rich, and have zero moisture. BEst thing, especially for rabbits prone to stasis, is grass hays only (and avoid those 'grain hays' that are lumped into the grass hay category, such as oat...

Interesting that you are concerned that lack of pellet eating would be resulting in obesity, when it is usually the opposite. Pellets are very potent bundles of calories, and the eating of them, particularly if unlimited, is the most common cause of obesity in pet rabbits. Diets of just grass...

The rabbit intestinal tract is quite efficient (if you call eating cecotropes 'efficient') and can extract an amazing number of vitamins and minerals out of what may seem to you a 'minimal' diet... A diet of grass hay and leafy greens (variety is good) is usually plenty to provide any rabbit...

Did you mention if he is overweight? That can also be a cause of 'poopy butt' (too fat to eat all the 'night feces' resulting in a constant 'poopy butt' situation). I totally agree with the above comments about 1) stopping the yogurt drops and 2) stop all pellets. Hay and greens would be best...

I wasnt' aware sperm could hang around that long, but keeping them apart for a few weeks is essential to keep the male from trying to breed with a fresh surgical area. Most of the vas deferens is removed (normally) during the neuter, leaving only a dinky thread of tubing behind.. .most which I...

I prefer, if there is room, to use both sipper bottles and ceramic bowls. .. I agree that rabbits that acquire water ONLY from sipper bottles tend to be a bit on the dehydrated side. And water bottles easily collect nasty bacteria at the point of the ball (so should be run through the dishwater...

If a rabbit is truly in need of gaining weight there is possibly something wrong with it or its diet. Though I am not a fan of feeding rabbits pellets, they are a far safer way to have a rabbit gain weight than feeding it something that's actually harmful for it. I agree with the last poster...

Before you do the pellet versus fresh leaf green thing, google Susan Brown DVM and read one of her diet articles.. she is one of the most respected rabbit vets in the country.

concerned about the possibility of pus in the eye.. if so, that needs medical attention ASAP as pus in the eye can quickly lead to pus in the optic chiasm (place where the ocular nerves cross as they come from the brain to the eye)... and from there... it can lead to an infection in the brain...

just curious why on earth you would want to purchase oats... they are one of the worst things you can feed a rabbit! or is this for a horse? Few things will likely end up causing GI stasis better than feeding rabbits grains like rolled oats (though surprisingly not always... just like smoking...

Several comments... if you are unsure if blood or urine, save some in a container. Your vet can 1) dip a urine dip stick in it and if it's blood it will yield a positive on the piece of paper (porphyrin dyes do not test + on urine sticks), 2) make a slide of the urine/blood and red blood cells...

The length of time for antibiotic use is totally dependent on the patient and the situation... so putting a rabbit on antibiotics for years or life is not out of the question if the result is positive... but if there is no response after a week, an alternative treatment/diagnostic route should...

Be prepared for several weeks, if not longer, of treatment... corneal ulcers tend to heal a LOT slower in rabbits than they do in us, cats or dogs... usually an uncomplicated ulcer heals in 24-28 hours in most cats or dogs, but most of my rabbit patients take up to a month or more to heal... a...

The flea problem should be relatively easy to control with Revolution (a single dose of Capstar can be helpful, too, but unlikely to do much for the rest of the fleas at home). As for the Pasteurella, I already discussed the problem with doing culture and sensitivities on nasal infections in...

If you absolutely have to take him in, you can ask your veterinarian to give him a dose of Midazolam before examining him closely (of course then normal ambulation and mentation will not be able to be ascertained, but injury and severe stress can be avoided, which I think is a reasonable...