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I agree with @Preitler that this is a runt. We dealt with peanuts when we bred Polish and they rarely live past 2 weeks. They also look a bit different.

We had a few cases of this with young kits but don’t recall an issue of the eyes resealing. I do know that we got a medicated eye ointment from the vet that cleared it up.

You can, as long as they are getting along. Watch them pretty close and separate if there are signs of them not getting along.

I’ve never had an issue with eyes resealing after we had to help them open, but I would consider getting a rabbit savy vet to look at it. We didn’t have to consult with a vet very often, but they can be very helpful.

Once weaned, about 6-8 weeks, Mom can be moved out, and kits left together until Preitler said

I had thought black based on the ears. What was throwing me was the fading on the feet. I used to raise Himalayan rabbits and all points were black with very little, if any, fading. In cool weather the points get darker, but then you also have issues with smut.

We found that it’s easiest to sex them as newborns, then around 8 weeks or so. There are videos that help you to sex young rabbits. You can try taking pics and post them here, but you need good light and close up. It also helps to press down some, but not too much when you take the picture.

If it were me I would retire her. As far as animals getting in, isn’t it still possible rats could’ve gotten in, or surprised the doe? With two litters lost though, I wouldn’t try again.

Yes, at least a month, and remember to feed and handle them last, after feeding and taking care of your other rabbits.

It is important to quarantine any new rabbit you bring into your herd, even one you used to own.

You might search on the internet for others who harvest wool to make and sell things. There is also an Angora Rabbit Breeders Assoc website with this article - https://www.nationalangorarabbitbreeders.com/PDF/TIPS-FOR-HARVESTING-ANGORA.pdf Breeding rabbits for any purpose is not an easy task...

If this continues to happen it can stress out the kits. You might have to move the doe out and only put her in to nurse them.

I’m glad she wasn’t completely dried up!

One possible reason you were finding the kits away from the nestbox, especially if they were mobile, was because they weren’t getting enough milk from Mom and were still hungry. I would say she dried up and you’ll need to keep hand feeding them. Keep hay around for them to munch on, and because...

The kits would be better protected if they were huddled in the back surrounded by hair/fur. We had some does who were really good about covering the kits after they finished nursing and some who didn’t. Just curious, are you using metal nestboxes or wood ones?

We line bred with no problems (mother to son or father to daughter). It can depend on if there are any health issues in that line, as @SableSteel said. We did not breed siblings though.

We used to raise and show Brits, and they’re a difficult breed to deal with. It takes a lot of work to get them to pose correctly (and not move), at least under US standards. Ours had shorter fur than yours. US judges also like to see good extension from the front limbs.

Typically, you want the buck to be smaller, or the same size, as the doe. By my calculations this buck is less than a pound heavier than your doe. There shouldn’t be a problem but others might have a different opinion.

It’s hard to know, but in a situation like this, if you lose another one you really need to get a necropsy done on the body. In the meantime I’d disinfect everything the rabbits are in contact with, and check the feed’s freshness date and it and the hay for signs of mold.

Their upbringing can affect personality & behavior to some degree, but genetics play a big part also. We had a litter of 3 kits whose mother was aggressive & mean (though not to the kits) and the father was a real sweetie. From day one we tried our best to handle the kits and give them...