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I'm not a fan of converted bird cages or the DCN (Double Critter Nation) cage (the one shown with the chinchillas). We have a DCN (used for rats and later for birds) and they simply aren't appropriate for rabbits. The base is too small -- same for bird cages. (Those ramps are also useless for rabbits.)

[ @Poopy Poo , of the photos you posted, only the dog crates and the last cube cage would be appropriate for rabbits. The bird cages, rat cages, and one-grid tall guinea pig cages are not appropriate.]

Multi-levels is fine but the base (footprint) needs to be reasonably large (like the 2 grid by 4 grid cage in last photo). Ideally, the bottom floor should sit on the floor of your home, not raised on a stand. The reason for this is something you've already experienced -- having to pick bunny up to get them in and out of the cage. This is not ideal and in fact can sabotage your attempts at bonding with your rabbit.

The easiest thing for your to do is have a cage that sits on the floor so that exercise time simply means opening the cage door. You should begin with an exercise pen that can be set up around that opening so that bunny's roaming space is limited. This set-up has multiple advantages. One is that you no longer have to chase (and scare) bunny around to catch him and put him back in. All that is needed is to shrink in the x-pen until he has no option but to hop back in his cage.

The other advantage is that bunny has constant access back to his cage -- this alone has a few advantages. He can retreat to his safe zone (his cage) at will. Knowing he can retreat at will can provide a great deal of security & comfort. 3.) He has access back to a litter box as needed which will be most useful if you intend to have him free roam.

I believe the pages on my website about housing, bonding, and introducing a dog and rabbit will be most helpful to you. Normally I may link a specific page, but in this case I'll give my home page here. If you can view it on a laptop or computer, it is more user friendly than a mobile device.
All this really interesting and informative. I think I have to start looking for an appropriate new cage and also a pen seems like a good idea. That would save me having to chase him around the room all the time. The idea of having a cage on the floor now seems more suitable. My idea of using the bird cage on legs was so that he was safe from cats/dog but they are already so blase about him so have accepted him "in his cage." I read somewhere that I should NOT let bunny bounce up and down as he hops in front of the cats outside his cage, especially as Roger might then begin to look like prey!
 
Hi Blue Eyes - With your converted desk/cage (picture shows door wide open) doesnt your bunny nibble at your furniture? I have been warned about this but to make the furniture bunny proof seems almost impossible. Especially with tv cords, computer cords, etc etc.

It depends on the rabbit. I've had many rabbits (and many cage set-ups) but have not had an issue with rabbits chewing furniture. Cords? absolutely! I did have one rabbit attempt to chew at the corner of a couch, but when I moved the couch away from the wall a bit, he stopped. He just wanted to get behind the couch. It became his favorite lounging spot.

He was also one that tried to chew baseboards. But you can see in the photo below how I just tacked a 1 x 3 which was safe for him to chew.

upload_2019-4-5_19-24-0.png
 
All this really interesting and informative. I think I have to start looking for an appropriate new cage and also a pen seems like a good idea. That would save me having to chase him around the room all the time. The idea of having a cage on the floor now seems more suitable. My idea of using the bird cage on legs was so that he was safe from cats/dog but they are already so blase about him so have accepted him "in his cage." I read somewhere that I should NOT let bunny bounce up and down as he hops in front of the cats outside his cage, especially as Roger might then begin to look like prey!

Pens are quite handy in more ways than one for any rabbit owner. I use them frequently.
I have no experience with cats together with rabbits, but I do have info on my site about dogs with rabbits. I think it is important to teach a dog what behavior will be acceptable towards the rabbit. But you may read about it on the site if you are interested.

upload_2019-4-5_19-35-3.png
 
I have experience with cats and rabbits so I think I'll butt in here. It really depends on the cat. My cat is mostly an outdoor cat (comes inside at night) and I have no doubt that he kills animals outdoors. This includes wild bunnies unfortunately. My cat seems to know the difference between the outdoor rabbits and the family indoor one. Every morning, I will let my bun burn some energy by playing in the living room. The cat is usually asleep out there. My bun likes to walk right up to him and sniff and give him kisses sometimes. Some bunnies will be scared of cats and others won't be. I just want to note that if the cat tries to scratch your rabbit, seperate. If the cat only bats at a rabbit, it's their way of figuring out what the rabbit is. Wouldn't you be curious if a fluffy blob with a twitching little nose wandered up to you? On the other hand, if the rabbit appears to be scared of the cat, I would recommend putting the cat in a seperate room/part of the house during your rabbit's playtime. Signs of them being scared will be but not limited to thumping, running away, eyes wide and breathing hard while staring at cat, not exploring when cat is in sight. At first, be within arms reach when they meet. If your cat bats at the bunny, feel it's paws to see if it's claws are out. If so, seperate them. This probably means the cat is getting annoyed or wants to hurt the bunny. Good luck and let us know how they get on!
 
Quite likely there's no way around bunny proofing your place, especially cords. My buck (4yo, intact, 10lbs) never touched any, but the cuddlebun I got him (1yo girl, spayed) went right for them. Neither of them chews furniture (I don't have anything tasty though, just cheap non real wood stuff). Youcan wrap wires in that "Coiled Cable Conduit Tube" or put it behind wooden boards. You might want to get wireless mouse and keyboard for your computer though, USB cables are their favorite :D.

About raised cages: My outdoor rabbits live in hutches, about 2-3ft from the ground, I use ramps to let them go in and out, no problem. Indoors I would try to design it so that the ramp either folds up and acts as door too or is easily stowed away, like going under the cage when not in use. Definitly use solid ramps, not ladders like shown in some of the pictures.
 
I have experience with cats and rabbits so I think I'll butt in here. It really depends on the cat. My cat is mostly an outdoor cat (comes inside at night) and I have no doubt that he kills animals outdoors. This includes wild bunnies unfortunately. My cat seems to know the difference between the outdoor rabbits and the family indoor one. Every morning, I will let my bun burn some energy by playing in the living room. The cat is usually asleep out there. My bun likes to walk right up to him and sniff and give him kisses sometimes. Some bunnies will be scared of cats and others won't be. I just want to note that if the cat tries to scratch your rabbit, seperate. If the cat only bats at a rabbit, it's their way of figuring out what the rabbit is. Wouldn't you be curious if a fluffy blob with a twitching little nose wandered up to you? On the other hand, if the rabbit appears to be scared of the cat, I would recommend putting the cat in a seperate room/part of the house during your rabbit's playtime. Signs of them being scared will be but not limited to thumping, running away, eyes wide and breathing hard while staring at cat, not exploring when cat is in sight. At first, be within arms reach when they meet. If your cat bats at the bunny, feel it's paws to see if it's claws are out. If so, seperate them. This probably means the cat is getting annoyed or wants to hurt the bunny. Good luck and let us know how they get on!

Great info about cats and bunnies. I made a really bad mistake, I now realise, when Roger and my cat met each other for first time. Roger reached out to touch noses with the cat and the cat responded but me, in my stupid ignorance, shoved the cat away quickly, thinking he was going to harm Roger. I quickly recovered and lifted the cat up to touch noses again and Roger responded so, in the end, I don't think it was too bad. I will know better next time. Thank you Alyssa and Bugs!
 
Pens are quite handy in more ways than one for any rabbit owner. I use them frequently.
I have no experience with cats together with rabbits, but I do have info on my site about dogs with rabbits. I think it is important to teach a dog what behavior will be acceptable towards the rabbit. But you may read about it on the site if you are interested.

View attachment 40281

Yes, I have a pen on my to-buy list. I think it's a great idea. thanks, Blue Eyes.
 
Quite likely there's no way around bunny proofing your place, especially cords. My buck (4yo, intact, 10lbs) never touched any, but the cuddlebun I got him (1yo girl, spayed) went right for them. Neither of them chews furniture (I don't have anything tasty though, just cheap non real wood stuff). Youcan wrap wires in that "Coiled Cable Conduit Tube" or put it behind wooden boards. You might want to get wireless mouse and keyboard for your computer though, USB cables are their favorite :D.

About raised cages: My outdoor rabbits live in hutches, about 2-3ft from the ground, I use ramps to let them go in and out, no problem. Indoors I would try to design it so that the ramp either folds up and acts as door too or is easily stowed away, like going under the cage when not in use. Definitly use solid ramps, not ladders like shown in some of the pictures.

"USB cables are their favourite." Haha Duly noted! Yes, noticed the ladders in some ads for bunny cages and thought the same. How on earth would they hop up there??
 
Welcome to the forum and I hope everything goes well with your baby. [emoji5]

It’s better to keep all the hay in one collected place in the litter box, it will make less waste and become easier to clean up. You will always have wasted hay but that’s something you will have to accept. I always fill up the hay everyday once or twice, so they have fresh hay.

He will grow, so he will need a bigger cage and a pen to stretch the leg. Make sure to let him come out and run, at least 4 hours outside the cage. Rabbits often love getting out and play, and will be a lovely sight seeing him play and explore. They have a lot of energy.

To make it easier to carry your bun to different room, you can use a basket, travel cage and move around. Most rabbits are scared in the beginning to be picked up but it’s something you can teach them to tolerate/ get used to it.

Myself own 3 bunnies and all of them can be picked up and handled by me, the rabbit I had as a kit everyone can handle because I spent a lot of time with him. I had taught him to be calm with other people handling him. He was a rabbit that always hid, when he saw people and took 1 month until he came out from the hide house. But now he’s a free roaming rabbit with a lot of confident and loves humans.

Make sure to spend a lot of time with your bun, spend everyday to build up a bond. Take him to a small area and just lay down and let him explore you. Have treats on you, it will often help interacting with a rabbit. They are a bit different then cats and dogs.

The more he learn to trust and feel safe around you, the easier it will become to handle him.

In my opinion baby’s are the best age to introduce to new situations and create positive memories, older rabbits are a bit harder. I only had two rabbits that snuggled up to cats (the rabbits have a special cat friend) but it’s a lovely sight to see them grooming each other ( I have never owned a cat [emoji23]).

I know how it feel with feeling sorry about rabbits, I’ve adopted 2 bunnies instead of buying kits which I planned to do. Because I thought bad of them and they needed a new home.


Hermelin, cleaned out the cage yesterday after reading all the fantastic advice and your idea of keeping the cage floor clear has really worked out well. I've now got the litter tray heaped up and my two hays there in a little pile for eating and the rest of the floor clear and I noticed that Roger was stretched out last night with his back legs flat on the ground. Seemed much happier to sleep on the smooth floor. Thank you for that tip.
 
Hermelin, cleaned out the cage yesterday after reading all the fantastic advice and your idea of keeping the cage floor clear has really worked out well. I've now got the litter tray heaped up and my two hays there in a little pile for eating and the rest of the floor clear and I noticed that Roger was stretched out last night with his back legs flat on the ground. Seemed much happier to sleep on the smooth floor. Thank you for that tip.

That’s great, Roger really have a great bunny parent

I hope you will get a great bond with him [emoji5]
 

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