Comparing food pellets of two different bags

Hi, my new rabbit just finished her food that her family gave me and yesterday she had another ones that I feed my other rabbits. She was very angry with me wasn't eating yesterday and spent day in her litter box completely ignoring me. She kinda ate some yesterday night and today maybe she will eat it now, just wanted to talk about dry food a bit as I have a very little knowledge about ingredients just want to learn a bit more.

I couldn't find her old food in my local stores I visited 3 of them yesterday, I use Burgess for my rabbits and they like it. The only thing I don't like that there's always some crumbles and dust in the package they don't want it so it is a bit of waste, in Bernie's bag there was no dust at all, and pellets are a bit bigger than Burgess.

I found them online and just wanted you to help me to understand ingredients and compare the two, just curious that brand is not very well known is it good or not good for my rabbits. Bernie was on it all the time and her fur looks very healthy, she was a bit overweight but it is because she likes food a lot and people where she lived are very nice and generous so she probably got too much food whenever she wanted it. I cut her portions a bit and she's fine now.

So, here's Burgess ingredients
Ingredients
Grass, Oat Bran, Wheat, Soya Bean Hulls, Lucerne, Peas, Yeast, Molasses, Mint, Soya Oil, Calcium Carbonate, Monocalcium Phosphate, Ligno-Cellulose, Fructo-oligosaccharides 0.25%, Salt, Vitamins and Minerals, Contains Natural Antioxidants. No artificial colours, flavours or preservatives.

And here's ingredients from Bernie's bag
Ingredients
Alfalfa meal, wheat, soya bean hulls, flaked peas, soya bean meal, linseed, soya oil, wheat feed. Protein: 14.0%; Fibre: 19.0%; Oils: 4.0%; Ash: 5.0%; Calcium: 0.6%; Phosphorus: 0.4%. Vitamin A: 20000 IU; Vitamin D3: 2000 IU; Ferrous sulphate monohydrate: 61mg; Calcium iodate anhydrous: 1.5mg; Copper sulphate pentahydrate: 20mg; Manganese oxide: 32mg; Zinc oxide: 87mg; Sodium selenite: 0.3mg. Contains Natural Antioxidants. No artificial colours, flavours or preservatives.

Have you seen the following chart?
http://www.therabbithouse.com/diet/rabbit-food-comparison.asp

Various Burgess lines are listed there.

It isn't just the ingredients but the nutritional analysis that needs to be considered. Ratios of certain nutrients are also important. The site explains it more.

Of course the ingredients listed first have the highest proportion. Ingredients listed after that get progressively smaller in portion. So at first glance, Bernie's bag has alfalfa listed first -- typically that would be for rabbits under 6 months. The other bag has grass listed first but doesn't state which grass. But since alfalfa is a legume and not a grass, it can be presumed to not be alfalfa.

After that, they both have cereals and soy, so no huge difference. Other than the alfalfa difference, I think the nutritional analysis (percentages) might be more telling.

On a different note, it sounds like you ran out of one food and decided to switch pellets at that time. It is advised to transition a rabbit to a new food -- not just switch suddenly. It would have been best to mix the old pellets with the new in gradually decreasing amounts to give bunny time to adjust to the new pellets. With sudden switches, some rabbits will go on a hunger strike. Others may have serious stomach issues from a switch. Others don't seem to care or be affected.

Blue eyes said:

Have you seen the following chart?
http://www.therabbithouse.com/diet/rabbit-food-comparison.asp

Various Burgess lines are listed there.

It isn't just the ingredients but the nutritional analysis that needs to be considered. Ratios of certain nutrients are also important. The site explains it more.

Of course the ingredients listed first have the highest proportion. Ingredients listed after that get progressively smaller in portion. So at first glance, Bernie's bag has alfalfa listed first -- typically that would be for rabbits under 6 months. The other bag has grass listed first but doesn't state which grass. But since alfalfa is a legume and not a grass, it can be presumed to not be alfalfa.

After that, they both have cereals and soy, so no huge difference. Other than the alfalfa difference, I think the nutritional analysis (percentages) might be more telling.

On a different note, it sounds like you ran out of one food and decided to switch pellets at that time. It is advised to transition a rabbit to a new food -- not just switch suddenly. It would have been best to mix the old pellets with the new in gradually decreasing amounts to give bunny time to adjust to the new pellets. With sudden switches, some rabbits will go on a hunger strike. Others may have serious stomach issues from a switch. Others don't seem to care or be affected.

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Thanks for the link I remember it was posted here but couldn't find it.
Bernie's food is this https://www.amazon.co.uk/Tiny-Frien...3291811&sr=8-1&keywords=russel+rabbit+nuggets
It's not on the list.

No I've read before that food has to be introduced gradually I mixed pellets for her lately but she's a very fast eater she ate them all maybe just didn't even realize they were different. She ate a half of her bowl when I gave her yesterday that never happened before that she didn't finish her pellets She loves food. Maybe I had to start mixing earlier, she's with me two weeks I didn't want to make too much change at once you know new cage, and she was an outdoor now indoor, but I think that pellets is just complementary food and most important that she eats her hay if she had no pellets for one day or had a half like yesterday that's not too bad.

Anyways, I keep learning and making mistakes.
Today was better she ate greens and lots of hay and ate her portion of Burgess pellets too. I was just wondering if that unknown brand is actually not worst than Burgess. I need to educate myself this all information about ingredients I am very bad at it. Only I noticed that her pellets had linseed which is very good for skin and hair for people too, as I said her fur is outstanding, very thick and silky, very healthy looking.

So, Bernie eats the other pellets now but she's still not very enthusiastic about them. Couldn't find her pellets in pet stores near me so I've ordered online. Unfortunately the store sent me wrong type same brand but not nuggets but kind of muesli. They apologised and will deliver on Friday she's actually eating those new pellets but I think now that her pellets were actually not bad I can see difference her fur looked better when she was on them as they had linseed I believe.

Now, my question is, there are two questions in fact.

First, I know many of people here recommend just plain pellets but I have three bags here and just can't sit still I want to open one and try to give them if they like it I can keep one bag if so I will get her pellets on Friday anyway and will return two bags and will pay for that opened.

Here's ingredients from the bag:

>>Muesli

A complete food suitable for rabbits of all ages.

Zero added sugar

Nutritionally complete & balanced diet

Promotes natural foraging behaviour

Specifically formulated for active adult rabbits (4 months plus) of all breeds including dwarf

Enhances digestive health & dental wear with optimum fibre levels

High in fibre – 14% with Lucerne known for its high quality

Rich in natural ingredients

Made with only the finest raw materials

Nutritionally optimised to provide high quality dietary satisfaction


Ingredients:

Wheat, flaked peas, flaked maize, timothy hay, alfalfa meal, whole oats, soya bean hulls, flaked wheat, soya oil, wheat feed, extruded locust beans, calcium carbonate.

There's a bit more on the package



Please tell me that I need to put it back to the box and seal it because I just want to open it and try if my rabbits will like them. If they sell them it means that people buy them and feed their rabbits, and from description it is that they actually same amount as for pellets, so just hay, water and vegetables.

Interested if anybody here using muesli instead of plain pellets and why and how it works?

My other question, what if I'd add linseed to my regular plain pellets (or to this mix)? Will they eat them or I'd have to crush them or something? Anybody ever tried to add linseed to their regular food?

Thank you!

Posting on this forum is preventing me from opening that muesli bag!

Poopy Poo said:

So, Bernie eats the other pellets now but she's still not very enthusiastic about them. Couldn't find her pellets in pet stores near me so I've ordered online. Unfortunately the store sent me wrong type same brand but not nuggets but kind of muesli. They apologised and will deliver on Friday she's actually eating those new pellets but I think now that her pellets were actually not bad I can see difference her fur looked better when she was on them as they had linseed I believe.

Now, my question is, there are two questions in fact.

First, I know many of people here recommend just plain pellets but I have three bags here and just can't sit still I want to open one and try to give them if they like it I can keep one bag if so I will get her pellets on Friday anyway and will return two bags and will pay for that opened.

Here's ingredients from the bag:

>>Muesli

A complete food suitable for rabbits of all ages.

Zero added sugar

Nutritionally complete & balanced diet

Promotes natural foraging behaviour

Specifically formulated for active adult rabbits (4 months plus) of all breeds including dwarf

Enhances digestive health & dental wear with optimum fibre levels

High in fibre – 14% with Lucerne known for its high quality

Rich in natural ingredients

Made with only the finest raw materials

Nutritionally optimised to provide high quality dietary satisfaction


Ingredients:

Wheat, flaked peas, flaked maize, timothy hay, alfalfa meal, whole oats, soya bean hulls, flaked wheat, soya oil, wheat feed, extruded locust beans, calcium carbonate.

There's a bit more on the package

View attachment 40236

Please tell me that I need to put it back to the box and seal it because I just want to open it and try if my rabbits will like them. If they sell them it means that people buy them and feed their rabbits, and from description it is that they actually same amount as for pellets, so just hay, water and vegetables.

Interested if anybody here using muesli instead of plain pellets and why and how it works?

My other question, what if I'd add linseed to my regular plain pellets (or to this mix)? Will they eat them or I'd have to crush them or something? Anybody ever tried to add linseed to their regular food?

Thank you!

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In my opinion it’s not a good rabbits food. Musli food there are a lot of rabbits that will often pick what they eat.

It have too little fiber ( at least 18% but more if you can find) for a healthy food.

Better with plain pellets and not spoil them too much

But I’m really picky with my rabbits pellets, because they can’t have any soya products, have to be cereal free and have a lot of fiber [emoji28]

Let me preface this by saying I don't know much about pellet nutrition nor did I ever look into it until our vet brought it up.

On our first vet visit our vet asked what we were feeding (oxbow) and she said she's seen many complications from rabbit food that contains soy, that plus the fact that I'm allergic to soy lead me to only feed Sherwood Pet Health pellets to our buns as they don't contain soy. Our vet said that Sherwood is the best composition of rabbit food she's ever seen and recommends it to everyone. Unfortunately, it's not sold locally here so I order online

Hermelin said:

In my opinion it’s not a good rabbits food. Musli food there are a lot of rabbits that will often pick what they eat.

It have too little fiber ( at least 18% but more if you can find) for a healthy food.

Better with plain pellets and not spoil them too much

But I’m really picky with my rabbits pellets, because they can’t have any soya products, have to be cereal free and have a lot of fiber [emoji28]

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Too late, I've opened one bag

And you were right, I gave each of my four rabbits a little bit, they are not very hungry yet they had their pellets about 5 hours ago and Fred and Bernie still have a half of them in his bowl, Leo and Smokey ate their portion already, Smokey is always hungry and Leo eats more lately, he's changing he's 5 months tomorrow.

So Fred was busy moving his furniture and showed no interest in food at all, he still has some vegs since last morning so just not hungry, Smokey came out of her cage for them and first was greedy as usual but then just stopped eating and said what the hell is that?? I saw from her eyes that she's highly disappointed with me she went to her shelf now is laying there with her butt turned to me. Sorry Smokey!

Leo ate some but not too much, I think he just picked some plain pellets and left the flakes and oat grains. He didn't say anything, he's generally very polite. He's a real gentleman.

Bernie got more than others, she ate a bit, then stopped and went into her corner, then she shakes her head and comes back. Now she picked the plain pellets as they were same as her old food, and left almost everything else.

So, that's how I wasted a fiver but it was necessary for my peace of mind.

I will feed them their usual pellets for dinner and will check if they ate any more of muesli. Anyway, Bernie will get her nuggets on Friday and hopefully everybody will be happy again

I didn't realise rabbits can be allergic to soya products, I need to learn about nutritions it's my weakest point tbh.

Scarly said:

Let me preface this by saying I don't know much about pellet nutrition nor did I ever look into it until our vet brought it up.

On our first vet visit our vet asked what we were feeding (oxbow) and she said she's seen many complications from rabbit food that contains soy, that plus the fact that I'm allergic to soy lead me to only feed Sherwood Pet Health pellets to our buns as they don't contain soy. Our vet said that Sherwood is the best composition of rabbit food she's ever seen and recommends it to everyone. Unfortunately, it's not sold locally here so I order online

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I've lots of allergies myself I should go to the doctor myself to make tests and all, the problem with me is that I afraid of doctors, I'm just trying to avoid foods that I feel are wrong for me, including white bread and milk, I honestly don't understand why pet stores are selling foods that are generally bad for rabbits, like yoghurt drops or containing corn or cheese or something rabbits will leave anyway.

On the other hand, I believe that animals won't eat what is bad for them, I thought so at least, but nor too sure now.

What the hell is that, said Smokey.

I actually wanted to attach this photo to email I've sent to the food seller but resisted.

Poopy Poo said:

I've lots of allergies myself I should go to the doctor myself to make tests and all, the problem with me is that I afraid of doctors, I'm just trying to avoid foods that I feel are wrong for me, including white bread and milk, I honestly don't understand why pet stores are selling foods that are generally bad for rabbits, like yoghurt drops or containing corn or cheese or something rabbits will leave anyway.

On the other hand, I believe that animals won't eat what is bad for them, I thought so at least, but nor too sure now.

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Unfortunately, animals love things that are bad for them lol. We have to keep all chocolate in the house in the cupboard above the fridge as he'll sniff it out and open drawers etc to find it and chocolate can kill dogs!

I think companies create these colorful products because as humans we see variety as a good thing, everything in moderation, etc. But that's not true for many other species, so even if the products look appealing to us doesn't mean that they are a good thing to give our pets.

Poopy Poo said:

I believe that animals won't eat what is bad for them,

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My indoor rabbit will eat anything that he gets, from dangerous plants to stealing pizza. While the outdoor rabbits are more picky with what they eat and choice.

My indoor rabbit when he go outdoors, he will just eat and won’t stop eating while the others will jump around and play. So the one that truly it’s a foodie, won’t even notice what he put in the mouth as long it’s not paprika, he will literally spit those out and stare at me. Giving a weird expression like “what poison are you feeding me” [emoji23]

Myself is also allergic but I react to hay, feel like I picked the wrong pets to own because my skin get irritated, runny noise, sore throat and itchy eyes. So I look sick when I react badly and becomes really tired, I turn into a slow zombie [emoji102]

I love the Beaphar Nature Rabbit pellets for my rabbits, they are big pellets, so my rabbit that always wolf down pellets. Need to slow down and eat, but they love them. The foodie one was first picky because he didn’t like it took too long to eat them for him and he needed breaks to finish 5 pellets (that his pellet amount for a day). But he will run crazily to the food bowl in the kitchen, when it’s food time now.

Let's start with what you got from the bag:
Nutritionally complete & balanced diet

Promotes natural foraging behaviour

Specifically formulated for active adult rabbits (4 months plus) of all breeds including dwarf

Enhances digestive health & dental wear with optimum fibre levels

High in fibre – 14% with Lucerne known for its high quality

Rich in natural ingredients

Made with only the finest raw materials

Nutritionally optimised to provide high quality dietary satisfaction

All of this is just meaningless gobbledygook that is put on there to make the product sound great. Nutritionally complete? says who? Not according to the nutritional analysis nor the ingredients listed. Promotes foraging? What food doesn't? Formulated for adults of all breeds? Again, so they say but the analysis doesn't agree. optimum fiber levels? They are quite below recommended levels. High in fiber? Not. Rich in natural ingredients? What the heck? The highest proportion ingredients (listed first) are wheat, flaked peas, flaked maize -- none of which should be listed first. Finest raw materials? Couldn't get more vague or subjective than that. Nutritionally optimised? Again, not at all. Not according to actual recommendations.
The point of this, is that labels are intended to sell products! They are all made to sound wonderful and healthy and the best out there. It is just meaningless sales crap. Don't believe hype. The truth is in the ingredients and the nutritional analysis.

Don't feed muesli. The photo you showed appears to have crushed corn kernels. The hulls of corn kernels are indigestible to rabbits. They can cause gut impaction and rabbits have died from this. Aside from that, muesli is filled with other crap -- the equivalent of bunny junk food. This is why plain pellets are always recommended.

As for "On the other hand, I believe that animals won't eat what is bad for them, I thought so at least, but nor too sure now." You are right to doubt that. Rabbits can and will eat what is bad for them. Not only that, most domestic rabbits have completely lost their ability to know what plants are toxic! They will happily and ignorantly chow down on a poisonous plant without any clue that they are doing themselves harm.

Yeah, advertisement is based on buyers needs and wants, targeted marketing I understand that, I was looking at ingredients without the poetry

I agree with all said above just couldn't resist when I already had them I wanted to see what's inside.

As Hermelin said 18% is high on fiber, not 14%, but this is just a trick for inexperienced buyer.

I also paid attention that ingredients are not the best but I am new to all this and just want to educate myself to be able to read and understand ingredients so thanks for helping me with this.

I am not going to feed my rabbits muesli, just offered a little to see I don't know was it cruel? I feel bad now.

So, here's a photo of what is actually in that bag. First is when opened, second what was on bottom, more grains and flakes.





Basically, about a half or maybe 1/3 of bag are the nuggets looking like those that I ordered for Bernie
Bernie's food Ingredients
Alfalfa meal, wheat, soya bean hulls, flaked peas, soya bean meal, linseed, soya oil, wheat feed. Protein: 14.0%; Fibre: 19.0%; Oils: 4.0%; Ash: 5.0%; Calcium: 0.6%; Phosphorus: 0.4%. Vitamin A: 20000 IU; Vitamin D3: 2000 IU; Ferrous sulphate monohydrate: 61mg; Calcium iodate anhydrous: 1.5mg; Copper sulphate pentahydrate: 20mg; Manganese oxide: 32mg; Zinc oxide: 87mg; Sodium selenite: 0.3mg. Contains Natural Antioxidants. No artificial colours, flavours or preservatives.

Fibre 19% not bad right?
Again, flaked peas, soya beans, wheat are kinda useless?
Alfalfa is good?
Linseed is definitely good.
Now, vitamins A, D3, ash, phosphorus I'd imagine are fine?

Burgess ingredients (I buy Burgess because my first rabbit was on it and I was told it's better not to change food). Smokey also was on Burgess, Fred was homeless and after spending a week in a shed eating carrots and cabbage was very happy with them too. Only Bernie is not happy here, even I mixed them with her nuggets for a week.
Burgess Ingredients
Grass, Oat Bran, Wheat, Soya Bean Hulls, Lucerne, Peas, Yeast, Molasses, Mint, Soya Oil, Calcium Carbonate, Monocalcium Phosphate, Ligno-Cellulose, Fructo-oligosaccharides 0.25%, Salt, Vitamins and Minerals, Contains Natural Antioxidants. No artificial colours, flavours or preservatives.

There's peas, wheat and soya again, and I don't like yeast and molasses, but think that Mint, Lucerne and Oat are good, again what Grass and vitamins and minerals not specified.

I think maybe Bernie will eat them just needs more time, but I've noticed that her fur was looking much better when she was on her food, I think because of linseed and vitamins A, D. Or maybe she's just changing because she was outdoor and now indoor, maybe living on the countryside was healthier etc, I don't know just ordered her food she only eats a half of her bowl now she was a bit overweight as was getting too much carrots and fruits, now she's in good shape, but I give her a carrot sometimes, she loves them.

If you've clicked over to that rabbithouse link comparing rabbit pellet brands, you'll see that many Burgess lines are listed there as a good option.

So it sounds as though Bernie is the only stubborn rabbit who isn't keen on the Burgess brand pellets. Your other rabbits have no problems with it.

If you are looking for something Bernie will approve, have you checked out Sherwood rabbit food? Some stubborn bunnies will do well with that (some won't).

Blue eyes said:

If you've clicked over to that rabbithouse link comparing rabbit pellet brands, you'll see that many Burgess lines are listed there as a good option.

So it sounds as though Bernie is the only stubborn rabbit who isn't keen on the Burgess brand pellets. Your other rabbits have no problems with it.

If you are looking for something Bernie will approve, have you checked out Sherwood rabbit food? Some stubborn bunnies will do well with that (some won't).

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Yes, I paid attention earlier that Burgess is mostly green and my other rabbits are happy with it. The other pellets are not well known and I couldn't find them locally but I've ordered online and today they finally delivered 3 bags and collected those muesli type pellets, so I am good for the next month or more, I will probably try mixing them again with Burgess when the third bag is almost gone, but now when I know where I can get them I have no problem if she wants them I will buy a couple bags for her once a month.

From my point Bernie's nuggets are larger than Burgess and there's no smashed pellets at the end of each bag, I just hate wasting food and Burgess aren't cheap. Also, because they are larger she eats slower which is good. Both girls Bernie and Smokey are very greedy on food, Smokey's eating very fast and she won't stop before there still are some pellets in her bowl so I thought maybe she'd slow down a bit with them.

But as I said I am not good with the analysis of the ingredients, I am learning a lot here hopefully will be able to understand more about foods. For the moment, Bernie has her nuggets back and she looked and was very healthy when I've got her so I am happy when she's happy and healthy with her food.

There are many other foods I see online and what Hermelin mentioned Belphegor I found them online too, not cheap though but looking good. I don't want to jump from one brand to another and back just to try if my rabbits will like them, but maybe when I will learn more I will choose another food, for now it's still Burgess excel for the three of them and Bernie has her nuggets too.

I will be definitely buying food online since now because it is cheaper than from pet store they even deliver for free when I order larger quantity, so I think I can do once a month and will keep learning about ingredients.

Want to thank everybody for sharing your experience it means a lot to me

Just came across this article thought I'd repost it here http://wabbitwiki.com/wiki/Pellets
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How can I tell if a pellet is sufficiently nutritious?
When choosing a pellet, you should look at the guaranteed analysis on the feed label to find out how much of various critical nutrients are in the feed, usually by percentage. The following recommendations are for adult rabbits. Growing junior rabbits can have higher protein, fat, and calcium contents.

Dana Krempels, Ph.D., recommends that a good pellet should have the following qualities:

• at least 22% crude fiber
• no more than approximately 14% protein
• about 1% fat
• about 1.0% calcium

The Textbook of Rabbit Medicine (2e) recommends the following food analysis:

• Crude Fiber: > 18%
• Indigestible fibre: > 12.5%
• Crude protein: 12–16%
• Fat: 1–4%
• Calcium: 0.6–1.0%
• Phosphorus: 0.4–0.8%
• Vitamin A: 6 000–10 000 IU/kg
• Vitamin D: 800–1200 IU/kg
• Vitamin E: 40–70 mg/kg
• Trace elements: Magnesium 0.3%, Zinc 0.5%, Potassium 0.6–0.7%

Suzanne Trayhan recommends the following:

• at most around 14% protein for normal rabbits, 16% protein for long-haired breeds such as angoras, jersey wooleys, etc.
• at least 20% fiber
• 1-1.5% fat
• below 1% calcium

Lucille Moore recommends the following analysis:

• Calcium: 0.6% minimum and 1.1% maximum unless rabbit has special need of low-calcium feed.
• Crude fiber
  • 14-18% minimum, 20% maximum for most rabbits
  • 20-25% for rabbits kits between 3 and 9 weeks of age
• Crude protein
  • 13-17% for pet rabbits
  • 17-20% for long-haired, outside, and lactating rabbits and larger breeds (e.g. Flemish, Checkered Giant)
  • 12-14% for young rabbits between 3-9 weeks of age
• Fat
  • 1-5% for the general rabbit
  • 3-6% for pregnant or lactating does
  • 4-8% for long-haired, wool-producing rabbits (e.g. American Fuzzy Lop, Jersey Wooly, Angora)
• Phosphorus: 0.4% minimum
• Salt: 0.5% minimum and 1.0% maximum
• Vitamin A: about 4500-5000 IU/lb
• Vitamin D: no more than 2000 IU.

In general, the lower the protein level and the higher the fiber, the better. Rabbits should have very little fat in their diets - 5% in some pellets is way too high for a house rabbit. You will want a low number for calcium, especially in rabbits with bladder, sludge, or kidney problems.

As Trayhan further says,
It can be difficult to find a pellet that matches all of the requirements. In that case, try to choose one that is as close as possible. Focus on the factors that are most important to your needs. If you have a rabbit with kidney/sludge problems, then get a low calcium number. If your rabbit is obese, concentrate on low fat and high fiber. For rabbits with gut problems, I would want high fiber.
..

The following are ingredients that may be found in rabbit pellets and a description of what they are and its use.

• Acetic acid: mold inhibitor.
• Ammonium hydroxide: mold inhibitor.
• Ascorbic acid: source of Vitamin C.
• Beet pulp: fibrous material left over after the sugar is extracted from sugar beets. An energy concentrate high in highly digestible fiber, pectins, and sugars. [11]
• Benzoic acid: mold inhibitor.
• Calcium carbonate or limestone: calcium ingredient.[12]
• Calcium propionate: mold inhibitor.[10]
• Canola meal: produced from canola seed following oil extraction. Protein ingredient. [13]
• Choline chloride: choline, or vitamin B4, ingredient.[14]
• Citric acid: Preservative. Also a growth and immunity promoter.[15]
• Corn gluten meal: added for palatability.[10]
• Lactobacillus: probiotic/prebiotic.[10]
• Lignin sulfonate: a by-product from making paper. Used as a pellet binder.[12]
• Non-dietary nitrogen (NDN): Should not be found in rabbit food. Rabbits do not utilize NDNs well and can cause toxicity.[10]
• Magnesium oxide: magnesium ingredient.
• Mixed tocopherils: source of Vitamin E. They are antioxidants found in nature and are used in fats, oils, and in a wide range of fat-containing food and feed products and contain natural mixtures of d-alpha, beta, gamma and delta tocopherols.[16]
• Molasses or cane molasses: added for palatability and as a binder.[12][17] High in magnesium.[10]
• Monosodium phosphate: phosphate ingredient.[18]
• Oat mill by-product: brans or middlings.[10] Obtained after the transformation of groats into oatmeal. High in indigestible fiber with low protein.[19]
• Papaya: aids digestion.[10]
• Propionic acid: mold inhibitor.[10]
• Rosemary extract: natural antioxidant.[20]
• Saccharomyces: probiotic/prebiotic.[10]
• Safflower meal: protein ingredient.[21]
• Safflower oil: added for palatability.[10]
• Sodium bentonite: pellet binder.[12][22] A clay mineral often used as cat litter.
• Sodium lignosulfonate: pellet binder.[23]
• Sorbic acid: mold inhibitor.
• Soybean hulls: fiber ingredient. Cheaper and contains more fiber than timothy hay.[12]
• Soybean meal: a by-product of the extraction of soybean oil. Protein ingredient.[24]
• Streptococcus: probiotic/prebiotic.[10]
• Timothy hay meal: ground up timothy hay. Makes the hay more digestible without sacrificing long-stem fiber.[12]
• Wheat middlings: granular by-product of grain milling.[10] High in digestible fiber and have energy values similar to corn.[25] Cheap source of protein and carbohydrates.[12]
• Yeast cell wall extract: prebiotic rich in mannan sugar moieties of long chain oligosaccharides collectively known as mannanoligosaccharides (MOS).[26]
• Yucca: helps control ammonia in rabbit waste.[10] Also aids in fat digestion in the small intestine.[26]