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Feed lots of hay and plenty of water. By refreshing the hay a few times per day, it encourages bunny to eat more hay. The hay helps push everything (including ingested fur) through the gut.
Also would be a good idea to give bunny a daily brushing during her shed.
 
Blue eyes said:
Feed lots of hay and plenty of water. By refreshing the hay a few times per day, it encourages bunny to eat more hay. The hay helps push everything (including ingested fur) through the gut.
Also would be a good idea to give bunny a daily brushing during her shed.
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Ok thanks for the tips, what kind of brush should I use, ive been using a comb? Should take away her pallets? She has loads of hay, mostly meadow but some lucerne in her hay rack , And 3 bowls of water
 
A comb is fine. Rather than giving a huge amount of hay all at once, give a generous amount and refresh it several time per day. It is the newly placed hay that will get bunny's attention and usually encourages more hay eating.
 
You can even lightly wet your hands and pet your bunny afterwards, the lose fur will stick to your hands (one of my rabbits hates brushes so I do that ^^'). I wouldn't change her diet as long as she is pooping and don't show any sign of discomfort. Refreshing the hay a lot is a good idea. I do it for mine as I've got an older bunny who has fragile guts while being really difficult when it comes to hay - if it's not new (like 30mn new) she won't eat it and putting some fresh hay regularly encourage her to at least come and see what I just put on the floor (moving around is also good for the guts so I'll take what I can get). I generally have two or three bags opened at the same time so I can vary throughout the day and if she doesn't really like one it doesn't end up with stasis. You can also wet her greens before giving them to help hydrate the guts and eliminate the fur. Hydratation and fibers are the key to a healthy rabbit, but it's sometimes easier said than done...
 
Aki said:
You can even lightly wet your hands and pet your bunny afterwards, the lose fur will stick to your hands (one of my rabbits hates brushes so I do that ^^'). I wouldn't change her diet as long as she is pooping and don't show any sign of discomfort. Refreshing the hay a lot is a good idea. I do it for mine as I've got an older bunny who has fragile guts while being really difficult when it comes to hay - if it's not new (like 30mn new) she won't eat it and putting some fresh hay regularly encourage her to at least come and see what I just put on the floor (moving around is also good for the guts so I'll take what I can get). I generally have two or three bags opened at the same time so I can vary throughout the day and if she doesn't really like one it doesn't end up with stasis. You can also wet her greens before giving them to help hydrate the guts and eliminate the fur. Hydratation and fibers are the key to a healthy rabbit, but it's sometimes easier said than done...
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The poop is really hard, is this bad?
She has 3 bowls of water- 2 up stairs in her hutch and 1 downstairs where she spends most of her time. She also has red pee, so I haven’t been giving her many greens lately, maybe a bok choy leaf once or twice a week or a bunch of grass 4-5 times a week. I heard that red pee is usually caused by plant pigments. So maybe in a few days i will give her more veggies and see what happens. She loves lucerne hay and meadow hay - I use meadow for her to sleep in and eat .
 
It sounds like you are doing all the right things! Some bunnies just have problems when they molt (I have a female who also has tons of water, hay etc. and has this problem). My rabbits both hate being brushed, so I just 'pluck' the molted fur out (the stuff that's unattached) and that seems to help a lot.
 
Those are called strings of pearls.....happens when they are grooming a lot, or in molt and losing a lot of fur. We try to give our rabbits grooming sessions when they are molting, to help them get rid of as much extra fur as possible. What kinds of things are you feeding her? Are you making sure they are on the list of foods that rabbits can have? Does she get Timothy hay or pellets? We push the greens when they are molting, but we also make sure they are eating Timothy hay or orchard grass as well. We do have one older bun who has some trouble when he molts, so we have to give him a very low dose of medication when he gets these strings of pearls, because without the meds, he is at higher risk for stasis.
 
doodlebugger said:
Those are called strings of pearls.....happens when they are grooming a lot, or in molt and losing a lot of fur. We try to give our rabbits grooming sessions when they are molting, to help them get rid of as much extra fur as possible. What kinds of things are you feeding her? Are you making sure they are on the list of foods that rabbits can have? Does she get Timothy hay or pellets? We push the greens when they are molting, but we also make sure they are eating Timothy hay or orchard grass as well. We do have one older bun who has some trouble when he molts, so we have to give him a very low dose of medication when he gets these strings of pearls, because without the meds, he is at higher risk for stasis.
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I feed her meadow hay and a bit of lucerne. She eats Barnyard Rabbit Pallets. I ALWAYS make sure that the food I feed them is ok for them.
 
Barnyard Rabbit pellets aren't that great. The site lists the following nutritional analysis:
Crude Protein (typical analysis) 10%
Fat 4.5% (max)
Fibre 9% (max)
Salt 1.5% (max)

The recommended analysis is:
Crude protein 12-14%
Fat 2.4-5%
Fiber minimum of 18%
calcium, phosphorous and certain vitamins should also be included

The super low fiber is especially concerning as is the lack of calcium, phosphorous, vitamins D, E & A

The following chart compares numerous brands and explains what to look for in a healthy pellet:
http://www.therabbithouse.com/diet/rabbit-food-comparison.asp
 
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Blue eyes said:
Barnyard Rabbit pellets aren't that great. The site lists the following nutritional analysis:
Crude Protein (typical analysis)10%
Fat4.5% (max)
Fibre9% (max)
Salt1.5% (max)

The recommended analysis is:
Crude protein 12-14%
Fat 2.4-5%
Fiber minimum of 18%
calcium, phosphorous and certain vitamins should also be included

The super low fiber is especially concerning as is the lack of calcium, phosphorous, vitamins D, E & A

The following chart compares numerous brands and explains what to look for in a healthy pellet:
http://www.therabbithouse.com/diet/rabbit-food-comparison.asp
Click to expand...



Ok thanks for letting my know. I will definitely be changing their pallets in the near future. The only thing is that I live in New Zealand so we can’t get all of those types of rabbit pallets listed on the website, I know that’s definitely not all the brands there are but I really want to get a top quality brand. We have burgess ( I think that’s how you spell it) but that’s kinda out of my price range. I will keep searching for other good pallets and will chose one based on the info you gave me today. Thanks
 
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