i would contact other rescues about what paperwork needs to be filed...
I know here in the US you would need a liability type insurance though
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GUIDELINES FOR STARTING UP YOUR OWN RABBIT RESCUE
(to be used in conjunction with âSo you want to start a rabbit rescueâ article)
Equipment
Before you start taking in unwanted rabbits, you will need to equip yourself with good quality hutches of appropriate size for the needs of the individuals to be accommodated. Hutches should be a minimum size of 4âx2âx2â with larger ones for bigger breeds, twosomes or small groups. It is important to provide somewhere for the rabbits to have exercise such as a run or enclosure, preferably on concrete or similar surface to allow for regular cleaning and disinfection of the area. Better still, the runs can be attached permanently to the front of the hutches allowing access all day. Take into account possible fox problems before allowing 24 hour access.
If the rabbits are to housed inside, it is important to ensure good ventilation to minimise the spread of respiratory infections such as pasteurella. Remember that visitors take note of how well the rabbits are kept and it pays to set a good example â if standards are poor there is no incentive for new owners to do any different.
Smaller items of equipment will also have to be bought, such as water bottles, food bowls, pet carriers, and cleaning utensils.
Supplies
Find a reliable, cost effective and preferably local supplier of food, hay and wood shavings. You may find it helpful to check if they will deliver to your door, as these are bulky items and sufficient quantities cannot be easily transported in an ordinary car. You will also need to consider what storage facilities are available.
Waste Disposal
Decide how you are going to safely dispose of the inevitable bags of manure/soiled bedding. Some local authority tips will not accept animal waste, and most dustbin men refuse to take the quantity that you will generate. Local allotment holders may be interested as it is excellent for use in the garden once rotted down.
Vet inspection
Regular (annual) inspection by your local vet at your own invitation is an excellent idea, and there is usually no charge if you explain that you are taking in rescued animals. This is primarily for your own benefit as you can display the subsequent letter in a prominent position for visitors to see. The letter should contain the following points:
1.How long you have been regularly attending that particular practice.
2.How much experience you have with rabbits, and any relevant previous employment details.
3.That the premises is clean, tidy, with no overcrowding, that all the pens/hutches are of adequate size for the animals housed, that there is provision of food and water, that bedding is clean, with free access to good quality hay. That all food is stored in rodent-proof containers.
4.That no breeding of the animals is taking place. If one is rescuing rabbits then one should not be adding to the problem by producing yet more. It would be like the RSPCA breeding dogs and cats â it just isnât appropriate.
5.A maximum number of animals should be stated appropriate for the premises concerned to avoid the temptation to overcrowd.
6.That there is evidence of good basic book-keeping, including details of the animals kept, the dates that they were brought in and re-homing dates, details of new owners, and any miscellaneous details such as veterinary treatment, vaccination and neutering dates, age, and any other relevant information.
Donations
Records should be kept of money received as donations and money paid out in expenses. Bear in mind that if a new owner canât afford an appropriate donation to purchase the rabbits then there must be some doubt as to their ability or willingness to pay for their petâs upkeep, veterinary bills etc.
Waiting List
A waiting list is essential as there will be times when you are full up but donât want to just turn people away. Overcrowding must be avoided at all costs due to the high risk of spreading disease as well as other welfare issues. A fair priority system should be operated so that rabbits in danger of cruelty or neglect come higher on the list than those who need to come in because their owner is bored with them, but remember that a rabbit that is unwanted may well be at risk of neglect too. âPrettyâ rabbits should not have a higher priority over âstandardâ looking ones, and likewise rabbits with a mild deformity should not be penalised. Rabbits should be accepted all year round, space permitting, as rescue work does not stop just because it is winter! In fact, it is often the busiest time of year due to people dumping their rabbits because of their reluctance to look after them in the cold weather.
Vaccinations
Veterinary advice recommends that all rabbits be vaccinated against VHD (Viral Haemorrhagic Disease) as soon as possible after their arrival at the rescue centre. VHD is a killer disease and highly contagious and therefore the rescue would need to close for several months should there be an outbreak. Remember, VHD is an airborne disease so the rabbits do not even need to be in contact with others to contract it. Myxomatosis should also be vaccinated against, but current veterinary advice is that there should be a period of at least two weeks between the two vaccinations. Whether one vaccinates first against VHD or myxomatosis depends on location and circumstances, but remember that myxomatosis is also a highly contagious disease and is spread by biting insects such as fleas or mosquitoes, the majority of rabbits contracting the disease not surviving.
Declaration/Follow-up Visit
If there is any doubt that the rabbit is not going to a good home, then follow your instincts and refuse to let it go. If it is possible to carry out home checks then this is very helpful in making this decision, but this is not always possible in small rescue centres where time and manpower are both in short supply. However, always make sure that you get details of the new ownerâs name, address and telephone number prior to the rabbits going out so that you can keep in touch. A follow-up visit could be arranged if you felt it necessary and if this were possible. It is useful to ask the new owners to sign a declaration, an example of which is below.
I the undersigned promise:
1.To keep the animal in good healthy condition and provide veterinary treatment where necessary.
2.To allow a representative of (name of rescue) to see the animal and itâs living accommodation at any reasonable time.
3.Not to part with the animal except with the permission of (name of rescue), but to return the animal to (name of rescue) if no longer able to look after it.
4.Not to allow the animal to breed. N.B. (name of rescue) reserves the right to remove any animal considered to be unsuitably placed.
Care sheets
An information sheet should accompany every rabbit that is place in a new home, and the new owners encouraged to contact you for advice should any problems arise. A CottonTails care sheet for you to photocopy is available on request (please enclose an s.a.e. plus additional stamps to cover photocopying costs).
Euthanasia
It has to be up to individuals to decide on their policy for euthanasia in cases such as severe behavioural problems or chronic long-term health issues such as malocclusion. However, one must consider that for every individual rabbit that you keep on a permanent basis this is one less place you then have available to take a rabbit that you could do something for and successfully re-home. Sadly, if one adopts a non-euthanasia policy you would quickly fill up with problem bunnies with no room to take in any more. This is often the case with sanctuaries whereby a new rabbit is only taken when an inmate finally passes away, but this policy rarely works in a re-homing centre unless extensive foster caring facilities are on offer.
Other agencies
It is often useful to notify your local RSPCA and any other animal welfare organisations and inform them of the type of rescue work that you offer, and you will likely find it helpful to work in conjunction with such organisations, rather than in competition with them.
Charitable Status
It is certainly not easy to become a registered charity, and to be honest it will make very little difference to your rescue centre apart from perhaps helping a bit when you apply for grants from grant-awarding bodies. You can achieve just as high a profile whether you are registered or not, and the success of your organisation is dependent on the enthusiasm and knowledge of the volunteers concerned, not whether you are registered. You will need to go through a solicitor, otherwise your chances are not so good at being accepted by the Charity Commission. Choose a solicitor that specialises in charity law. It will not be cheap, and you may feel that the funds would be better spent on the animals rather than on the solicitors fees, but at least you can make enquiries. You will also find that the red tape involved will tie your hands in several issues and suddenly you are not in control anymore. However, if you think you may end up having large donations or grants, it is certainly important to become a registered charity in order to protect everyones interests, including that of the trustees and the animals.
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http://www.cottontails-rescue.org.uk/startingrescue.asp
facebook is a good way to get out there to rabbit lovers in the area and get donations/foster homes, ect.
you will need to decide what rabbits you take in, how you decide this, and KNOW that you wont be able to save every one. if youll be taking in abused rabbits, expect high vet bills. If you take in the unwanted, you will still ideally want to get them spayed/nuetered. You could get wit a vet though who does it at a lower price because you are a rescue.
which idk if you need a rescue liscence there or not.
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